F*ck our endlinks

God damnit. I was all excited to put the 156A front bushings on today to prevent the squeak that is already appearing with the cooler weather. Per recommendations here, I jacked the car up and was going to try and detach the endlinks from the strut. That stupid ******* allen/bolt thing was rusted to crap. I let rust penetrant sit on it for a good hour while I ate, and nothing... I was able loosen the bolt without the allen key, but not actually loosen it from the stud... So that now sucks because when I put everything back together in order to get to work in the morning, the thing rattles like a maniac.

Any idea how much it would cost to have the dealer do the front bushings (and I assume the endlinks)? I already have bushings. I assume they'll need to order new endlinks, or at a minimum cut the bolt/allen thing.

When I do the rears, I am NOT messing with the rear endlinks...
 
they will need to order new endlinks, and if you want i can get a price on them for you tomorrow.
 
Well, parts/service at the dealer I've been dealing with luckily opens at 8:00AM, so I'll give them a call before work and see if they have endlinks in. I really hope endlinks + labor doesn't exceed $150 or something. Because for something that was already noisy under warranty, that just sucks. But yeah, I'm curious what your prices on 2 front endlinks are. Thanks.

Chris
 
I imagine I could too given the tools, but I lack the tools to cut off rusted bolts. They've never touched my front suspension, so those front endlinks have been bolted since I changed my springs, aka 3 years now.
 
Endlinks suck. I soaked them for days with PB blaster and still only one of them came off without stripping the allen hole. I used vise grips to hold the backside of the bolt while I unscrewed the nut.
 
I believe the P5/MP3/MSP have the same endlinks. Flare nut, yes, but to get it off you must hold the bolt itself in place with an allen key. So you are trying to press one way with the allen key, and pull the other way with a 14mm wrench. Add 3 years of rust and you've got an interesting dillema.
 
mine came off with hand tools... but when i did it, my car only had like 27k miles... might be a reason why... but i need to replace my front ones as well, driver side is bent... waiting for price check too thanks.
 
Well, from dealer endlinks were $26 a pop + 2 bucks a bolt (4 total). I gave it one more try this morning with vice grips and all the strength I could muster and I couldn't budge them. I took it to a dealer to have the endlinks done. 2 hours of labor (mostly cutting) and my grand total came to 160 for labor, 60 for parts. ****...

So, I didn't have them put the bushings on. I figure I can do it now that the endlinks are new and not rusted. However, does anyone know if its absolutely necessary to unbolt the endlinks to replace the front bushings? I know it isn't for the rear, as all that is necessary is to jack up the back and unload the swaybar from the springs. Is it possible? Or is it really a good idea to take the endlinks off?

Chris
 
Yeah I'm starting to get that squeek. and the clunk in the back. So come spring time when i get money I'll replace the bushings. But what exactly is the front end squeek?
 
Front end squeak is the front bushings. There is a newer model (part # ends with 156A) that is slightly different. I think the big thing is they need to be lubricated every so often with white lithium grease. But that is easier said than done.
 
yeah i have plenty of lithium grease. what do the bushings look like up front?
 
We have a winner.

Negative if your talking about the endlinks. You have to use a allen wrench to remove it, impact that and forget about it. I had to cut one of my rears off and the one I got off without cutting was so rusted on threads were messed up I just went with the awr endlinks.
 
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twizyours said:
We have a winner.

Negative if your talking about the endlinks. You have to use a allen wrench to remove it, impact that and forget about it. I had to cut one of my rears off and the one I got off without cutting was so rusted on threads were messed up I just went with the awr endlinks.
Well, speaking from experience, an impact worked just fine on my endlinks...
 
How did you do it since it is not streight through bolts I had to use allen wrench on the bolt part to keep it straight while taking of the nut soon as too much torq allen wrench would strip? When rusted on good nut doesnt move well grabs and kept spinning. I had to use air cut off tool to get it off. Front were easy to come off for me they werent rusted on. I tried air tools too with pb blaster after allen wrench started slipping. also were your rusted on because if not makes a difference. Like I said got one off without cutting off and the thread were so messed up couldnt reuse.Hmm glad it woked for you.
 
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What is the deal with these cars and all the noises they make. I had my rear bushings replaced last year because the squeeking got so bad that it made noise when i got in and out of the car. Now the front ones are going too so i'll taking it in today to get looked at. Good thing I'm still under warrenty for another 7kmiles.
 
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