Ets tmic

LionofZion

Member
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2007 MazdaSpeed 3 GT
I just ran across some feedback on a TMIC by ETS, and it looks like an easy upgrade, and for almost half the cost of most FMICs. Any experience there? I'm looking for fairly simple, and reliable upgrades...i love this car but im gettin a little concerned with the stories of problems some guys are having without even getting into crazy HP ranges. It appears to be a simple replacement of the stock piece but with much better performance. I kinda like the look of FMICs but am kinda happy with the clean sleeper look, and dont plan on sinking the money into mods that will require an intercooler to support 500hp. Will it make a really noticable difference in the NW region?
I have a CAI and CBE, and am looking at this and the hypertech,AP, unichip tuning programmers.
 
If you are considering modest upgrades, a better TMIC(ETS,CP-E,corksport) and a HyperTech tuner should give your MS3 what it needs. There are ongoing discussions regarding FMIC vs. TMIC, the bottom line is that both will give performance gains which can be felt. As to which is better, it is a matter of personal preference. Pros and cons exist for both styles of IC's.
 
any intercooler upgrade will be good. whether it's TMIC or FMIC. if you are looking for ease of installation/removal then i would go for a TMIC.

go with the AP for your tuning solution.
 
thx for the input. I have heard that having the AP without a pro-tune is senseless, or dangerous...others say just do the AP tune yourself. I know the Hypertech is easy, so thats a positive, but what are the realistic gains? Some guys rave about it and some say its just going to make everything a little more efficient. I'm completely green to this forced induction ownership and am learning, so I apologize for excessive questions. I know that one of the TMIC replacements is kinda like a TMIC/ram air setup and replaces the CAI. I have the MazdaSpeed CAI, and wonder how much I could get for it and how much of a noticeable difference there would be between it and a TMIC setup that occupies the intake.
 
thx for the input. I have heard that having the AP without a pro-tune is senseless, or dangerous...others say just do the AP tune yourself. I know the Hypertech is easy, so thats a positive, but what are the realistic gains? Some guys rave about it and some say its just going to make everything a little more efficient. I'm completely green to this forced induction ownership and am learning, so I apologize for excessive questions. I know that one of the TMIC replacements is kinda like a TMIC/ram air setup and replaces the CAI. I have the MazdaSpeed CAI, and wonder how much I could get for it and how much of a noticeable difference there would be between it and a TMIC setup that occupies the intake.
As far as the AP, if you have no experience in tuning, do not not even try. You can install the the performance maps, but anything beyond that should be left to professionals. "Zoom,Zoom, Boom", is no fun!
The TMIC/Ram Air you refer to, is actually a FMIC, that uses the space left by the removed TMIC for an air intake utilizing the under hood ducting.
 
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I was torn over doing a TMIC and AP or TMIC, Test Pipe and Rear Engine Mount. I called Street Unit (SU) and spoke to Shane and asked for his advice. I have the same concerns about the AP and without having a turbo-back exhaust (yet) but will have a TMIC shortly there was not a AP Map geared for my setup. I asked if I would get my bang for my buck if I ran just a Stage 1 map and was advised that I would not. I was told that I would get greater gains with the TMIC and Test Pipe than TMIC and AP. So I went with TMIC, Test Pipe and Rear Engine Mount. I ordered the SU TMIC, but SU is no longer providing. SU is replacing theirs with a TMIC from SURE Motorsports. The reason is the SURE product is better then the legacy SU TMIC. I was placed onto a Pre-order list and was told 30 days. I received the Test Pipe and Rear Engine mount. I will install those first and when the SURE TMIC comes in I will get that installed. I will update this post when it is all in.
 
Thx guys...I was trying to decide if the cost and efficacy of an AP would be justified compared to doing a TMIC or hypertech+pipe+rear motor mount, because those three cost pretty close to the same. Outkast, thx for the info from SU, sounds like they are being pretty honest. I'll have to take a look at that stuff. And spdjnke, Im interested in your feedback for some of your mods. Are springs worth the investment, and still just as driveable? I know the stock suspension is good enough for a .88 on a skid in one test, so cant be that bad. Are bpv/bov's really necessary from loss of boost with the factory unit? And doesnt the turbo's design make it ok to not have a turbo timer? I understand the concern of baking oil in a turbo, but if youre just doing normal daily commuting and let the car idle for a short time, is that good enough? And hows that clear bra designed? just to eliminate chipping? My wife wears one sometimes, but I know it wont fit my car :-P
 
If your looking for a simple tuning solution, just go with the hypertech. It's cheaper, easier, and safer.
 
If your looking to get a good looking stance at the same time really be able to get the true feel of the car then a set of lowering springs is a definate, However! if your going to go with springs @ the same time I would change out your strut/shocks...factory pieces really are just total crap they don't last worth a damn , ride and handling when the car is new is great but goes bad quickly. so I would recommend it and my car is a DD and the combo that I have is 100% better then stock by any aspect of the game.

As for the BPV well that's really one of the cheapest things you can to get better response from your car to be honest, I didn't think it would make much of a difference but I assure you, you will love what it does, and not saying stock is bad either but just not the same "feel" throttle wise.

The MS3 comes with watercooled turbos so you really don't need a turbo timer but I've always had them on my turbo cars so that's why I have one, plus to me its a peace of mind thing I guess, or as others would put it, better safe then sorry.

Clear bra stuff is great, but only if your car is NEW when it's installed I wouldn't put the kind of money into a used vehicle that's for sure cuz chances are it's already chipped etc....the stuff isn't cheap for a complete front end it's usually about 500-grand to do so....totally up to you ...I installed it on my car when it was new off the truck and it's been awesome don't have to worry about the salt and rocks during winter etc...best $$ spent as far as I'm concerned.
 
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If your looking for a simple tuning solution, just go with the hypertech. It's cheaper, easier, and safer.

examples of being easier and safer?

it's the same idea to flash your ECU with a pre-made tune. Except with the AP you can modify it if something isn't right. That's not possible with the HT. And with support on the forums you can get great advice on what to change in your tune.
 
I know the AP is more flexible, etc, but I have also heard that it's more risky, complicated, and several guys said you should use in process with a pro-tune...which could be twice the cost. I was looking at the options in terms of bang-for-buck tunes before getting into more expensive/complicated steps. For example, a new TMIC would be roughly the cost of one of those and possibly be the same gains or a hypertech+test pipe? Just a thought
 
I know the AP is more flexible, etc, but I have also heard that it's more risky, complicated, and several guys said you should use in process with a pro-tune...which could be twice the cost. I was looking at the options in terms of bang-for-buck tunes before getting into more expensive/complicated steps. For example, a new TMIC would be roughly the cost of one of those and possibly be the same gains or a hypertech+test pipe? Just a thought
I would strongly suggest not fooling with an AP unless you plan on getting a protune right away because otherwise, your really not gonna get that much more power than what a hypertech will give you. Also, your gonna eventually need a fuel pump, spark splugs, etc. With the AP.

You do know that there are new tmic's on the market now that are just as good as the ets and only $300-350 right?

A test pipe will give you about 10hp. Get a SU one. They're about $150
 
Thx subie, I actually just got an email back from SU regarding the new tmic coming out around june. Would the SU pipe be better than the corksport? Price is really close and I thought the cs claims more than a 10hp gain. My goal is a reliable neighborhood of 280-300whp. Any more trouble and money would defeat the purpose of saving money compared to a similar year evo or wrx. I have the mazdaspeed cai and catback. Ive heard everything from 20-30 on diff air intakes but im not sure about the cbe. I know hypertech claims 50-60 for the turbo model, but im assuming around 20 is more realistic. Between that, what I have and a racepipe, how far off would I be? And btw, I go to the parts store the other day and the original owner of the car saw the dealer plates and followed me in and told me he had some winter tires/wheels, extras he would sell me. I was hoping to get them cheaper but I got the 16" alum wheels with bridgestone blizzak tires that have about 10,000.on them, front and rear all weather floormats, alum mazdaspeed license plate frame, and the maintenance records for $500.
 
The corksport pipe won't get u anymore power than the SU one. your really just paying extra for a more well know brand and maybe a slightly fancier looking piece that no one is even gonna see cause its underneath your car.

The hypertech has actually been known to get up to +70hp out of a MS3 even with just cbe and intake. look around here more and even check out the hypertech section here on m247 if u wanna learn more.
I plan on buying a hypertech myself for the next step of modding for my car
That's kind of bad for the guy you bought the car from to not throw in the maintenance records with the car when you bought it. And I don't know much about snow tires and wheels cause I live in FL : )
 
Thanks! Idk if you have seen it, but I found a link from tire rack that has some interesting numbers. Looks like a peak hp increase, in the similar range, of 15hp, and a torque increase of 34lbs that holds out a little longer than the stock curve. What type of difference do you think it would make with the MS CAI and CBE, considering its supposed to have tunes/programs designed for it?
 
I would say the bridgestone blizzak tires (10,000 K on them), front and rear all weather floormats, alum mazdaspeed license plate frame was worth the $500. I run 18" blizzak on my OEM rims and they are worth every penny (NY winters). I feel safer in my MS3 with blizzaks then I do my AWD Jeep Wrangler with all terrains. Little side note, the Jeep is a 92 and damn near a John Deere tractor in ride and style!
 

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