Engine trouble with CAI

fishmonkey01

Member
:
04 mazda 3s 5-door
hey everyone, just wanted to know if you guys could help me with this. i purchased and AEM CAI. trouble is my car is losing alot of power in the low rpms from idle to about 3500. sometimes when i am stopped at a light the car will start shaking and then shut off. i took it to the dealership and they said that i am getting more air than fuel and that is the reason that my car is losing power. is this true? if so what can i do to fix the problem. i was going to throw the stock intake back in but my mom through it away (screwy) . to replace it will cost me about 500.00 was wondering if there was any other way to fix the problem. i am supposed to be going on a trip in june so the sooner i fex it the better. PLEASE HELP ME!!!! thanks.
 
Did you disconnect the battery during the installation?
If you didn't, you might have fried the MAF. At the very least, you should do it to reset the ECM.
 
You need to disconnect the battery, and pump the brakes a few times.
Then, make sure that your Mass Air Flow sensor is connected properly, in-line with the intake (it's the black cylinder with the box that was with your stock intake).
Assuming it's in working order -- AND PLUGGED IN -- reconnect the battery, and restart the motor. If you did not reset the ECU (unplugging the batt), the car will not re-tune based upon the change to your intake.
 
Protege52003 said:
to drain all power from the electrical system.....

I thought about that but the brake lights aren't connected to the whole electrical system, especially in this car. Everything is isolated with relays and diodes.

Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it couldn't hurt. I don't think it's really necessary, though. (shrug)
 
well i think that it did it. i did what you said and took it for a little test drive...... straight to the tire place to get a ten penny nail removed from my back tire....not a very good day for me. on the other i hand i did get to test the engine. i followed an evo and a ninja who were playing a little cat and mouse. i really need to get that turbo BAD..anyways thanks guys on your info, greatly appreciate it.
 
well s***. after only 2 days of driving my friggin car the cel comes back on and now its running shitter. sometimes when im in 1st i have to floor it so the car with move. its like im in 2nd and i shift up to 5th thats how bad the power loss is. anyone have any more ideas. i should have kept my neon. i know a 420a engine like the back of my hand and less electronics too. (hand)
 
Is your CEL On. If so go to autozone and get the code pulled for free so you know the dealer is ******* with you because you have an intake. Also you have to extend the cord to the MAF by detatching it from the battery box. It is held to the box with 2 plastic clamps. If left attatched the MAF can be damaged due to the engine moving during acceleration. You might have already damaged this sensor or the wiring to it if the cable attatched to the battery box. By the way unplug the battery again and leave it unplugged for at least an hour. Did you install this yourself?
 
That is very strange.. these cars are too touchy when it comes to change.. I have had a CAI on my car for over 10k with no problems.. then they start doing some heavy construction down the road so I change it back to stock... it did not like that.. It does like what fish monkey was saying... it runs fine, but when I stop, the RPMS jump up and down b/t normal and 1200.. it got so low a few times that it would just kill.. I had to reset the ecu 3 times before it realized that it wasnt getting enough air.. needless to say it runs fine now, it just seems to take it a while to realize whats going on
 
mario8402 said:
That is very strange.. these cars are too touchy when it comes to change.. I have had a CAI on my car for over 10k with no problems.. then they start doing some heavy construction down the road so I change it back to stock... it did not like that.. It does like what fish monkey was saying... it runs fine, but when I stop, the RPMS jump up and down b/t normal and 1200.. it got so low a few times that it would just kill.. I had to reset the ecu 3 times before it realized that it wasnt getting enough air.. needless to say it runs fine now, it just seems to take it a while to realize whats going on

My RPMs do that whenever I disconnect my battery and reset the ECM. It usually straightens out after 100 miles, though.
 
So it is normal for the RPMS to bounce up and down when coming to a stop and/or die? That doesnt sound healthy for anyone
 
I wouldn't say it's normal but it's not uncommon.

Fishmonkey's problem sounds a little more severe than a fluctuating idle, though.
 
yeah i installed it myself. i have done minor work on cars before but i have never had a problem like this. when i come to a stop at a light i watch as the rpms drop to 1000 then 500 and until it almost dies sometimes. then i have to give it a little gas. i had a 73 beetle with the original engine that ran better than my car does right now. and i need to figure out how to fix it soon (hopefully with out making me broke) i have to drive to el paso in june. and thats a 1600 mile trip. ill leave it unplugged and check the cable also. ill let you know what happens
(yupnope)
 
I can tell you exactly what your problem is ,cuz it happend to me.The problem is that there is oil being sucked into your intake from the black hose that attaches to your engine. Take off the ruber boot that is closest to your trotle body and see if there is some oil there. If so you need to purchus a oil catch can. this will allow the oil to drane into the catch can and the air will flow strate through. I purched one yesterday but for the mean time i put a small filter on the engine side and blocked off the cai side.this will help stop the oil problem and still alow the engine gases to still excape.
 
Back