engine swap?
- Thread starter bradley hughes
- Start date
exactly, but for MSPs, I don't recommend that ghetto s*** either... while 9 out of 10 times people won't have a problem with a welded bung on the oil pan (as it is always done on aftermarket turbo installs), I have heard/seen of people have s*** from the road hit the oil pan and rip the s*** off then blowing up the engine... now had the engine been non-turbo or the oil return is sitting high up like the stock MSP setup, the road debris would've dented the oil pan at best (which is highly unlikely and would instead just bounce right off and keep on passing on under the car)
again, you're being an asshat and not reading
I was replying to orng1's post which refered to jeanspeed's car
thanks captain obvious
post #3 refers specifically to what he needs to get done to get the engine to "bolt in the same"
now if he doesn't care and just wants to half ass s*** like you have been very happy with yours so far, then just bolt the b**** on
lol, that's exactly what I was originally trying to do...agreed
which is exactly why I wasted an hour on this thread already
then again, I'm bored and can't sleep
you wasted an hour because you didn't want to explain what you meant was that 'there are differences' and not 'it wont work'...regardless of the fact that I was saying that 'there are differences' and that 'it will work'
I'm sorry you feel that converting the engine to electionic ignition was 'halfassing' it....or that completely stripping it down, thoroughly cleaning the engine engine, re-ringing it, completely overhauling it and then dropping it in was 'halfassing' it
yea, there are differences, but these differences are not detrimental to the life of the motor and will not affect how the engine runs or operates...don't assume that because I got the engine for a good price and decided to use it means that I didn't do the installation properly or take all the steps necessary to get it to run the best it can
now that being said, let's get back to the ORIGINAL POSTER'S task
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you felt like arguing my point and not take a simple short answer... most people who aren't car freaks like the majority of this board don't care about details and are perfectly happy with the short answers... but you chose to exacerbate the situation by arguing
I feel you're halfassing your because, you have to macguver s*** to get the stock oil cooler and knock sensor to work... reduce the durability/strength of the engine by having a CAST crank
do I have to remind everyone your car has a turbo in it?
just because it runs, doesn't mean it's good
I feel you're halfassing your because, you have to macguver s*** to get the stock oil cooler and knock sensor to work... reduce the durability/strength of the engine by having a CAST crank
do I have to remind everyone your car has a turbo in it?
just because it runs, doesn't mean it's good
actually I "macguvered" it because this was a temporary engine and not intended to take anything higher than factory power levels
and there is nothing wrong with "macguvering" it to work, take a look at 99% of the turbo kits out there for any engine and you will see that the entirety of it is "macguvered" to work
and the short answer of "it is different" implies the message of "it wont work", which is the incorrect answer and why I argued
and again, this is a completely side argument and let's get back to the topic at hand
you're still driving with this engine... how many years has it been?
so much for "temporary"
