Engine Swap Begins

[yashart_mp3]

Holly hell! The FS-ZE has 10.4:1 compression ratio!

I say your motor will last all of 10mins @ 8psi.

LOL, suite yourself buddy.... Can't say we didnt try to warn and HELP you(poke)

 

[low_psi]

I would defiantely use your meth injection. Stock MSP timing isn't that aggressive but your cylinder pressures are going to be higher, which as you know means more heat.

Apocman probably still has a a thick Cometic headgasket laying around. I don't know if he plans to use it, but it'd be worth finding out how much it drops compression.

 

[jeffmsp]

should make as much stress on the motor as 10-12psi on stock compression and if things ever did become unamanagable I can always replace head gasket with thicker one but trust me a tuned 8psi will go nice as long as EGT and Afs stay in check and I keep good fuel in the tank.

 

[Blake]

PM LinuxRacr, he ran FS-ZE and it was A BAD IDEA!

 

[Blake]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1419&highlight=fs-ze



IT BLEW UP

 

[jeffmsp]

there is no useful info in that thread aside from the guy showing his mint fsze pro5. Some guy says at the end that he never got it working. From what I understand he blew it on nitrous. The only argument I see holding me back is that the cylinder head is not as effiecient as say a honda or toyota design, that is why I am limiting to 8psi for now. In the sprint I wanna do the MPI Stage 1 upgrade and some cylinder head work along with a nicer SMIC and turn things up to 10psi along with the J and S. Looking for a huge powerband and great throttle responce. Along with a new aftermarket oil pan this should really balance the car out and make it really fun to drive without worrying about detroying the trans and diff. and blowing another motor from oil starvation on the rod bearings.

 

[jeffmsp]

. We have added numerous new features including an on-board Map Sensor to control boost retard.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/safeguard.html

 

[69RMSP]

I say buy rods/pistons instead of the j&s and lower the comp. You can do the build yourself you silly wabbit

 

[Moeed]

s*** let the guy do what he wants. If it ***** up, its his money.

 

[jeffmsp]

or i could build the car i want and have fun in the twisties and back roads instead of building a qm ***** that blows a tranny once a month.lol. all the punk kids I wanted to beat, i beat. people were like **** how did it do that. now I want a well rounded car and can get this motor for such a good deal, id be dumb not too. id rather spend the cash for rods on suspension and tires. It will be plenty fast, just fast enough to beat your mint fmic strapped to the ugly yellowmsp 69 oh you know the show down is coming. Im gonna killz that yellowmsp of yours haha.jk sure wish i kept that sexy fmic now dont i haha. and buy the damn afc with me already lol

 

[Blake]

you will blow it up, I'm guaranteeing it.

 

[jeffmsp]

guess we will see what it can do. I have no worries, it wil be done right with plenty of good fuel and my injection kit for safety. Combustion temps will be reduced by the plugs, the injection and the reduced backpressure. If deto still cant be avoided Ill back off the boost until I can make the cylinder head more efficient. I think with my mods and tuning it will be fine at 8psi. We will see, hence the point of this thread.

 

[noclue119]

you will blow it up, I'm guaranteeing it.

My money is on the rods bending. I just spent $200 on brakes and i am bitching about that. So some people jsut have money

 

[jeffmsp]

i just spent the same on my front. rotors and got nice pads too. got new rears too but they are just sitting here, still do not need to replace after 100,000kms of fun driving, stock pads

dont think i will bend a rod unless i go over 250whp. 14psi with 9:1 ran great before so I have found they can take some beating, but again this is 8psi, im not breaking 250whp here guys, this is a low boost setup it will be fine. Im looking for some creative thinking from you guys. I already know what the drawbacks are I am looking to make the system more efficient while remaining somewhat stock appearing. Next on the list like I was saying before was the mpi nick turbo upgrade (for reasons I explained earlier) some cylinder head work and a blkzoomzoom style upgraded smic. All tuned for 10psi. Thats my like "goal" but as explained I am going to start low and gradually work my way up. If I could manage to grab a tubular exhaust mani this setup would be worth "going for broke" but for now I just wanna get the car rolling and tuned in a decent timeframe. Im not interested in building the motor, I dont need to go that fast.

 

[69RMSP]

when were both done it should be a good run

its would be better if you found someone who can "actully" drive your car for you though

 

[yashart@work]

yup, im guessing bent rod as well.

 

[jeffmsp]

lol and why is that. The rod wont bend unless you go over 250whp. we have been over this. Did you bend a rod at less then 250WHP? Then why are you making these comments. Unless you actually bent a rod which you didnt then how the heck do you know what you guys are talking about. There will be no more stress on the rods then there would be boosting over 10psi on stock compression. Its the combustion process that I am worried about not the rod strength.

 

[yashart@work]

lol and why is that. The rod wont bend unless you go over 250whp. we have been over this. Did you bend a rod at less then 250WHP? Then why are you making these comments. Unless you actually bent a rod which you didnt then how the heck do you know what you guys are talking about. There will be no more stress on the rods then there would be boosting over 10psi on stock compression. Its the combustion process that I am worried about not the rod strength.

Why a bent rod? Because everyone knows (except you) that it is the weakest component in our engine.

Where are you getting this 250whp number from!?!? If there is one thing we have all learned, its that the MSP breaks when it wants to. There have been plenty of people who have blown their engines with less mods & less boost. If anything, 220whp is a more realistic number of where people start to run into problems (without an ems).

What I dont understand is why you wont listen. Your idea of buying a SMIC and turning up the boost is completely unrealstic! There is no such thing as high and low boost with high compression pistons. There is NO boost with high compression pistons. Period! Are you forgetting that the FS-ZE has the same weak rods as any other FS engine?

Seriously, just take a step back and think about it. Use the search button and READ. The general rule with the MSP, is no more than 10-12psi, no matter what mods you have. Most people get 8.5:1 pistons, so that they can turn up the boost. How many people do you see getting 9.5:1 (let alone 10.4:1) and turning up the boost? It just doesnt make sense! High compression pistons are made for all out NA cars, not boosted cars. (poke)

If you must install the FSZE, get yourself a P5 ECU and an AWR or OBX header. The fs-ze should prove to be peppy and have great throttle response in that configuration. The stock P5 ECU should give you more than enough fuel to compensate for the higher compression.

This is the last time I will voice my opinion. I am simply trying to warn you that this is a bad idea, and to stop you while you are ahead. Best of luck

 

[Blake]

What he said ^.^

 

[1Sleepy93]

If he can tune it he'll be fine and have great low end with the higher compression. Trick is to get it tuned before it lets go and not get greedy for more power.