Engine mounts??
- Thread starter nopistons3
- Start date
Carlinator
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP
Speaking from very recent experience, it is a HUGE pain in the ass. Took me about 11 hours total over 2 days, and that's with a wide variety of tools provided to me by the automotive training program I'm in, plus a hydraulic lift.
That said, they will make a HUGE difference. I've got 95s front and rear, plus side inserts (had to buy a replacement passenger side mount, did not know at the time that aftermarket replacements were available). HUGE difference, I've only launched once or twice, but the difference is night and day. Vibrations have increased quite a bit, but I quite like it. Maybe non-enthusiast passengers will be able to ride with me again once they break in somewhat, but we'll see.
vinnie mack
Member
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- 2003.5 MazdaSpeed Protege
i'm running the midievel rear mount, not sure what the durometer is (maybe someone can check for me or remembers, i think it was in the 90s) but the dash vibrates real good at idle. I noticed it does put the power down a lot better, but they definitely do make things noisy.
i have their front mount, its actually not traditional urethane used in mounts. they used some sort of specialty urethane thats like 62-70 when you just idle but gets substantially firmer when you accelerate (up to 100 stiffness). thats what they tell you anyways... i have other issues going on with my mounts, so i really cant comment on how stiff they actually are. i get some vibrations when my idle dips (i.e. if the fans kick on) but overall not too bad
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I was hoping I could get away without doing the rear mount. So would I be taking a big risk just running the front mount and side inserts and keeping an eye on the rear? If it would break, would I be stranded?- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
chances are its already broken because its crap. And by broken i mean the rubber mount is torn. Besides wheelhop from the bad mount the only issue I have now is that its caused a crack in my midpipe that I need to have fixed.
im not positive, but i think all four of my mounts were broken at once and i could still drive the car. front was in 2 pieces, passenger side was/is VERY badly torn, i think the drivers side has a minor tear, and i would imagine my rear is in sorry shape as well. the car still drove, it just had a LOT of drivetrain lash and made an awful popping sound when the front mount would shift a lot (i.e. slipping the clutch too fast)
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
just to clarify....our mounts dont "break" the way the MS3 mount does leaving you with an engine sitting retarded. Our mounts "break" on the actual rubber which tears and means theyre no longer doing their job...
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
From personal experience if you want the best throttle response and min vibrations do solid mounts all the way around with a stock rear motor mount.
I'm sorry but if it took you 11hrs to install all 4 motor mounts with cool down of the car after getting off right off the highway somethings wrong... that or your just slower then malassis on a cold winters day.
I did all four mounts in 6hrs for the first time doing it ever on this platform with a 20 dollar tool set from discount auto parts and a few extension borrowed from a friend. That even includes cool down, walking down the street to go get the extensions to do the rear, and lunch. Ok I lied I had a 20-30 durolast floor jack as well with a 2x4 to support the motor.
I'm sorry but if it took you 11hrs to install all 4 motor mounts with cool down of the car after getting off right off the highway somethings wrong... that or your just slower then malassis on a cold winters day.
I did all four mounts in 6hrs for the first time doing it ever on this platform with a 20 dollar tool set from discount auto parts and a few extension borrowed from a friend. That even includes cool down, walking down the street to go get the extensions to do the rear, and lunch. Ok I lied I had a 20-30 durolast floor jack as well with a 2x4 to support the motor.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Okay that's what I thought. Well I had them inspected last week and they all looked good surprisingly. So running the stock mounts you were fine, but upgrading to stiffer mounts except for the rear caused your exhaust to crack? That is completely backwards from what I have been told lol. Well hopefully I'll be okay until I have time to get the rear in. They are sitting in my car already anyway...
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
the exhaust cracked because with solid mounts except for the rear thats where there was a lot of engine movement which caused the exhaust to crack over time it seems. it would shudder bad sometimes du to the crap mount
it took me like a week to do the front mount, the nuts were so rusted it took days of PB blaster to get them to loosen. then once they did, to get nut on the pin holding the engine loose took me, using a 2.5' breaker bar, on a trolley, with my feet pushing against the wall of the garage until i was about to have a hernia to get that loose.
but im from new england, so i have rust. if youre from FL you have no excuse.
but im from new england, so i have rust. if youre from FL you have no excuse.
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
I dont think you're following me lol
MY REAR IS TORN lol
My front is a SU mount and my sides I filled myself with epoxy so the rear is the weak link.
the front took me 30 mins to do
MY REAR IS TORN lol
My front is a SU mount and my sides I filled myself with epoxy so the rear is the weak link.
the front took me 30 mins to do
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
cheater/breaker bars are the s***!!! I have a 5ft one for pesky nuts and bolts... however some times i makes it worse by snapping the bolt off or breaking the sockets! You have to have a friend to help you get the full potenial of that breaker bar but it gets the job done just some times with less then desired results. lol(nana)
georgecastaneda
Member
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- 2000 Mazda Protege ES 1.8L
hey i changed my mounts but i feel that the motor still dancing every time i take my foot off the clutch. then for a second time i change the one in the front and the car was perfect but after a few days the car start feeling the same way like before. should i get solid front mount?
georgecastaneda
Member
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- 2000 Mazda Protege ES 1.8L
my car is like a proyect car which means have stock motor and tranny
