Engine mount replacement costs

[maskedSONY]

I have been wanting to replace the engine mounts in my Protege since they are really annoying me now. Now that I live in a city, I no longer have access to a garage and plan on giving the job to a shop. I want to ask, if anybody on here works as a mechanic, how much labor costs would you estimate to replace all four engine mounts?

On a side note, I think the engine mounts are also responsible for the front end of my exhaust becoming disconnected twice in the past 4 months or so. The engine rocks back and forth so much that it is the one thing that might be exerting force on the pipe, causing it to loosen up. It's an annoyign repair and I don't want to do it again.

 

[peterbuilt]

If you have a flat spot to sit your car you could easily do the front and side mounts by yourself. Now the rear one is a little harder than turnin your wrench a few times.

 

[maskedSONY]

Unfortunately I don't have a spot to do that anymore. I figure that I want to get this done before it falls off again. So I need to find a garage that can do it for a decent price.

 

[probin94]

i had a shop here in town qoute my g/f at like 70 bucks to put the rear in. hopefully he sticks with that price once i take the car in for him to actually look at it.

james

 

[maskedSONY]

well when you do go there, can you find out how much it ended up costing you? I am going to drop by a shop tomorrow and ask them how much all four would end up costing me.

 

[probin94]

ill tell you this....the front one should be easy to do by yourself. i had a buddy take it out and put the new one in in like 10 mins...that was with slackin off. the sides shouldnt be that hard either. im gonna call them and see when i can get in.

 

[maskedSONY]

OK well when it comes to replacement mounts, I've come across lengthy debates of AWR vs SLS.

Supposedly the AWR is too stiff, even at 70 durometer, and the SLS mount might be prone to breaking due to its design.

Does anybody have any recommendations on which to choose? The SLS mount seems to be smoother choice, but I'm very concerned about its longevity.

 

[probin94]

it all depends on what you want. i have the awrs in a 88 dur. and the vibrations is pretty bad....waitin to get the rear in to see just how bad. but ill deal with it. im happy knowing these things arent going anywhere anytime soon.


james

 

[maskedSONY]

I want to be as close to stock feel as possible.

 

[maskedSONY]

Ok, so I've noticed that people use the SLS side and front mounts - but is that with the OEM one in the rear? Is that safe to do?

 

[probin94]

as long as your rear mount isnt torn already i think it will be okay. my back was torn pretty bad and as soon as i put the front awr in it shot the rear one to hell. hence why i need to get the thing in pretty quick. its causing the car to kick me out of fourth when i tryto engage the clutch.


james

 

[808MP5]

Hmm... I don't think its worth paying a shop to install if it cost more than $150.... All the mounts can be easily changed except the back... The back is a little difficult. All the others are fairly simple. You don't even have to support the engine though a buddy would come in handy to move the motor a bit to get the bolts through.

 

[maskedSONY]

Hmm... I don't think its worth paying a shop to install if it cost more than $150.... All the mounts can be easily changed except the back... The back is a little difficult. All the others are fairly simple. You don't even have to support the engine though a buddy would come in handy to move the motor a bit to get the bolts through.

I would do this on my own but I dont have access to a garage or a level surface outside. Not unless I decide to dare the elements and other drivers in my parking lot.

 

[probin94]

well took it to the shop today. was gonna be the 70 bucks....but the guy couldnt get it out due to limited space and the nut being stripped. they gave me a rough estimate for the price to drop the transmission and get at it that way cuz it would be the easiest. qoute was from 325-400. he also said that he might just be able to take the carriage(dont really remeber what he said) without taking the trans out. im hoping to get the money together and get it done....hopefully it wont take him pulling the trans out to get it done. i figure it will be cheaper than the quote considering he tried everything he could to get the thing off for over an hour and i didnt get charged for anything. i love this shop.


james

 

[maskedSONY]

hey there - I just got back from the shop, with the SLS mounts installed in the front and the front passenger side. It cost me $240 to do it, but I am glad somebody else did it, because I would hate to have to deal with the rusted to hell bolts in the engine bay. The car drives much much nicer now, feeling like it gained some traction and 15hp in the front wheels.

 

[808MP5]

great news. I know it feels way better. Should get the rear and trans mount next. How's the vibes. Pretty insane huh. No worries it will settle down soon enough once the mounts get broken in. I kinda miss the vibrations.

 

[808MP5]

well took it to the shop today. was gonna be the 70 bucks....but the guy couldnt get it out due to limited space and the nut being stripped. they gave me a rough estimate for the price to drop the transmission and get at it that way cuz it would be the easiest. qoute was from 325-400. he also said that he might just be able to take the carriage(dont really remeber what he said) without taking the trans out. im hoping to get the money together and get it done....hopefully it wont take him pulling the trans out to get it done. i figure it will be cheaper than the quote considering he tried everything he could to get the thing off for over an hour and i didnt get charged for anything. i love this shop.


james

If there going to take the trans out that would be a good time to get a clutch flywheel combo.

 

[probin94]

exactly what i was thinking with tax season just around the corner. only thing is i need brakes, timing belt and water pump also. need to pay bills also....trying to scrounge up some change in the ole savings account to maybe offset some of the costs of all that before i get my tax return. would be id feel like i just bought a new car though...belts mount finally in and new clutch flywheel. that would be b.....itchin


james

 

[Rally Ninja]

I've got the AWR 70 duro in the car for probably a year now? I can't take it anymore and having the fiance nag about all the vibration and noise is getting to me.

Anyone know if the 62 durometer mounts would make a big difference?

 

[maskedSONY]

Ninja - you can try out the SLS front and side passenger mounts with new OEM rear and driver side transmission mount. From what others have said, the 70 durometer AWR mounts are way stiffer than even the SLS mounts, which are rated at 65 durometer. The SLS are a pure steel mount, and I think will absorb vibration better than the 62 durometer from other makers. Call up SLS performance and ask them for a second opinion.