Engine ceased - Possible hydrolock
- Thread starter SPEED305
- Start date
Agree. But cross-reference does say that that those Autolites are Iridium "enhanced", but they come with a huge .051 gap. Dealer probably did not regap them.
Yeah. I stick with NGK because I've had so much good luck with them over the years in a lot of different vehicles, even in European cars. For our app I had to regap the colder plugs, but that was no big deal.
I'll bet the dealer put those Autolites in straight out of the box with .051 gap.
I'll bet the dealer put those Autolites in straight out of the box with .051 gap.
Arent those Autolites not supposed to be gapped?
Ordered the OE replacement NGK ILTR6A-8G from a local shop. Will install on Wednesday. Give you guys an update then.
Darth Vader
Member
When I replaced my plugs with factory replacements, I had to gap 2 of them to spec and that's on a plug made for the car. Never trust that's done right. I wouldn't use anything much over .030 for a turbo car.
You need to be real careful gapping iridium plugs. It's really easy to bend or break the electrode tip and bugger the plug.
You need to be real careful gapping iridium plugs. It's really easy to bend or break the electrode tip and bugger the plug.
Bought those as well and will install them tomorrow. I'm having some KR issues and I'm suspecting it's the plugs so i'll give it a try. They're gapped to .032.
Just checked all of them and they're actually .031 so they're within spec. Don't wanna bother re-gapping them but how would you "tap" it exactly?
I guess it's recommended just pressing against a hard surface?
Darth Vader
Member
.031 v. .030 is inconsequential. I just lightly tap the ground strap flat against the anvil of my bench vise. Don't press, it's too hard to control the force required.
Well, changed them...
Take the 4 old ones outta there and 2 of them are like this:
Basically no gap at all. Put my gap tool between the electrodes, and even at .020, it wouldn't go in. The other 2 were fine at .031.
Put the new ones in and the car is running okay, just noticing a bit more knock retard than before but maybe because they're new? Just when i push the throttle a bit more but it hasn't gone over 2.5 yet and I didn't WOT the car at this point.
I'll keep an eye on this. Also did the seafoam and changed my oil as well, all the same time. Got a 2187 code but that was most likely because of the seafoam and other members got the same thing, so no biggie. Cleared it through the DH.
Take the 4 old ones outta there and 2 of them are like this:
Basically no gap at all. Put my gap tool between the electrodes, and even at .020, it wouldn't go in. The other 2 were fine at .031.
Put the new ones in and the car is running okay, just noticing a bit more knock retard than before but maybe because they're new? Just when i push the throttle a bit more but it hasn't gone over 2.5 yet and I didn't WOT the car at this point.
I'll keep an eye on this. Also did the seafoam and changed my oil as well, all the same time. Got a 2187 code but that was most likely because of the seafoam and other members got the same thing, so no biggie. Cleared it through the DH.
sorry i took so long. ive been really hectic!!
changed the spark plugs as I mentioned.....
BACK TO NORMAL!! car drives fine and pulls HARD, like it should, under heavy load.
Thanks for the suggestions you guys.
The autolites i removed, wow, they were all gapped diffrently. Incredible!
The NGK's all came perfect at exaclty .32
changed the spark plugs as I mentioned.....
BACK TO NORMAL!! car drives fine and pulls HARD, like it should, under heavy load.
Thanks for the suggestions you guys.
The autolites i removed, wow, they were all gapped diffrently. Incredible!
The NGK's all came perfect at exaclty .32
