Engine Break In

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Phaedrus409

Member
I have about 700 miles on my speed3, and I've been trying to do my best to baby her, and let me tell you, it's a battle! I'm curious if anyone has any specific advice for breaking in the engine. I've searched the forum quite a bit and haven't been able to find what I'm looking for. What I'm really curious to find out is how long I really have to wait before I can truly open 'er up...

-greg
 
Yeah I have been doing the same by babing her and it is hard! I think I might wait till I hit 1000miles and then go alittle faster and faster...Just mu thought anyways. I try and keep her between 60 and 65 on the highways now. I know some peoplehave just been laying into them right off the bat. Just make sure to vary your speeds atleast.

Just my $.02
~John
 
yeah deffinatly keep it away from the redline for the first 600 iirc (the manual has the actual amount) and dont' use the cruise control or keep it at the same constant rpm for a long period of time (high driving basically)
 
You got your 600 miles. Per the manual you are ready to stomp on that sucker and have some fun! Under redline, of course.
 
I was taught a good way to break-in a new engine (once fully warmed-up) was to find some hills-the bigger, the better, and let the engine really pull on the way up, then coast down. With the amount of torque the MS3 has, it almost sounds like break-in should be a little bit of good fun.
 
m1ndless said:
I thought when breaking in a car, its best to run the car hard to set the seals?
Click to expand...

Thier has been many debates on how a engine should be broke in. Many people say drive it like you stole it, others say baby it. Some people say if you drive it like you stoke it the engine generally makes more power compaired to those that have been babied, but at the risk of the engine durability from what others have said. I don't know how much of this is true or if any of it is.
 
personally i give it 1000 miles to break it in then after a couple oil changes switch to a full synthetic.
 
Instead of making a new thead with basically the same question..

How often should I change the oil if I buy it bran new with less than 100 miles on it? What type of oil? Does the dealer have to do it, or can I do it myself, or does that void the warranty?
 
as long as you keep engine oil change receipts/records you should be good come warranty time.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
as long as you keep engine oil change receipts/records you should be good come warranty time.
Click to expand...
but if he just keeps the receipts of purchasing the oil and oil filter as if he was changign the oil himself doesn't prove that he changed the oil just that he purchased the stuff to do so. That how a dealer will see it.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
as long as you keep engine oil change receipts/records you should be good come warranty time.
Click to expand...
but if he just keeps the receipts of purchasing the oil and oil filter as if he was changign the oil himself doesn't prove that he changed the oil just that he purchased the stuff to do so. That how a dealer will see it.
 
StealthWyvern said:
but if he just keeps the receipts of purchasing the oil and oil filter as if he was changign the oil himself doesn't prove that he changed the oil just that he purchased the stuff to do so. That how a dealer will see it.
Click to expand...

for major warranty work its not so much up to the dealer, its up to the warranty rep. my mother in law is the warranty manager at the local multi-line dealer including mazda. there is the notion that the dealer decides what to warranty and not warranty. for big work - say your engine goes - they 99% bring out the regional mazda rep to make the call. even if a dealer approves it first hand, the rep reserves the right to overrule. there also seems to be the notion that the dealer loses money on warranty work so thats why they wont do it - this could not be further from the truth. the dealer gets paid, by mazda na, to do the warranty work. the only person losing on warranty work is mazda.

if you can prove with receipts that maintenance work was done - on schedule, and in thier eyes this means prior to the date recommended in the owners manual - mazda will take care of you. working there i saw them warranty engines with pieces left of them no bigger than a grain of salt because in the end they do not want to lose a customer. if you can show some kind of due diligence, you dont have much to lose and can always appeal to MNAO with that info.
 
m1ndless said:
I thought when breaking in a car, its best to run the car hard to set the seals?
Click to expand...

That's what I was talking about. You want to load the engine up for periods, but you also want to give it some recovery time. Think of it as interval training for your engine. The best place to do this is on some moderate hills. Load it up and run it hard up the hill, being mindful to stay comfortably below redline, then coast down the other side and repeat. By doing so, you vary speed and load, and break your engine in nicely.

I've used this procedure with 6 new cars and 3 new bikes, and have never had an engine problem.
 
I'm still breaking in my engine, this is what I did. For the 1st 1k shifted at 3k, with 4k once in awhile, for 1k-2k shifted at 4k, with 5k once in awhile, for 3k-4k shifted at shifted at 5k, and once in awhile at 6k, and from 4k-5k (I'm here now) shift at 6k, with 7k once in awhile. Oh yea, gas is starting to get expensive from shifting higher :)

Sorry if thats confusing, I also changed oil at 2k and 5k. But basically as long as you're varying load and rpms, and uphills and downhills, you should be fine. I have to climb a steep incline just to get out of my parking garage, and roll down it to get back in.
 
I followed mototune hard break-in procedure on my P5, 50k miles so far not a single prob and never get less than 26 mpg no matter how hard I drive it!

If I get the MS3 I'll do the same again
 
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