Engine Break-in Period

Gio26NJ

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2013 CX-5 GT AWD Tech Package, 2014 Mazda 6 Touring
Ok I am now at about 3,100 miles on the CX-5 and I am noticing a smother car with much better acceleration and incredible response from teh auto transmission. The car feels lighter and faster. I followed all the break-in guidelines in the manual and I cannot describe how happy I am with the vehicle at the moment. I am so glad wifey and I didn't go with a Rogue or CRV like we were about to. Even the leather seats are starting to feel better and better.

What is typically the full break-in period, about 5,000 miles? getting ready to do my first oil change. i will do it myself or take it to a local shop who I trust, screw the dealership. Not going there for minor maintenance stuff like this, but I will use the Mazda filters with Castrol Edge 0-20 full synthetic oil.
 
You will get alot of varied responses to this question. The OLD-SCHOOL folks will tell you to change early, whereas others will tell you not to worry, just change as normal.

Do what makes you feel better. Personally, I prefer to do my FIRST new-car oil change at 1/2 the normal interval. On the CX-5 I am using a 7500 mile interval, so my first change was done at ~3800 miles.

In the past, engines were made with assembly lubes, metal filings in oil-channels, hung-over technicians, and non-detergent motor oils. Today, things are done a bit differently...
 
Ok I am now at about 3,100 miles on the CX-5 and I am noticing a smother car with much better acceleration and incredible response from teh auto transmission. The car feels lighter and faster. I followed all the break-in guidelines in the manual and I cannot describe how happy I am with the vehicle at the moment. I am so glad wifey and I didn't go with a Rogue or CRV like we were about to. Even the leather seats are starting to feel better and better.

What is typically the full break-in period, about 5,000 miles? getting ready to do my first oil change. i will do it myself or take it to a local shop who I trust, screw the dealership. Not going there for minor maintenance stuff like this, but I will use the Mazda filters with Castrol Edge 0-20 full synthetic oil.

Per the manual (page 3-37), no break-in is required, but certain precautions are outlined for the first 600 miles of driving.

Regarding the improved tranny responsiveness, what you are feeling is AAS (Active Adaptive Shifting) at work. AAS controls shift points to best suit road conditions and driver input. It makes a difference, especially as it adapts to the more aggressive driver making downshifts quicker.
 
Dude I swear you work for Mazda or something :D thanks for the informative posts. You're like the CX-5 index pointing to the exact pages and stuff, appreciate it. The car feels a lot better now than when I got it brand new and I like it.

@mazdadude yeah you're absolutely right, I'm going to do mine at 5,000 miles.
 
Dude I swear you work for Mazda or something :D thanks for the informative posts. You're like the CX-5 index pointing to the exact pages and stuff, appreciate it. The car feels a lot better now than when I got it brand new and I like it.

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Lol, no but I'm a car enthusiast just trying to be helpful and accurate (not depending on the usual internet hearsay).

btw - I see you have a awd GT w/tech pkg like mine. Pretty amazing vehicle for the money when you compare it to premium/lux small SUVs.
 
I'm flying down to San Diego tomorrow to pick up a Sky Blue FWD Touring. I've researched this purchase to death and have pretty much covered every page of this forum. One thing I'm curious about is whether the 2.0 Skyactiv in US trim with 13:1 compression ratio might respond favorably to mid-grade or premium fuel. Knowing Mazda's rationale for cutting the CR by one point from the Euro version and losing 10 horsepower in the process, I'm wondering if the engine management system and knock sensor might respond favorably with a point or two higher octane to play with. Not something I'm going to worry about right away, but I think after I get the engine broken in I might try it to see if I notice any difference. BTW: My trip home from San Diego will be 605 miles according to GoogleMaps, so the engine will be officially broken in by Friday evening!
 
A rather long thread already exists on the higher octane gasoline experiment for our American 2.0L, none of the results are conclusive which comes as no surprise.
 
New engines have break in oil that has extra additives that cote new bearing surfaces to prolong life and reduce friction. Old school was replace quickly to get any floating metal from new surface out. New school is let filter trap it and leave additives in for the normal time for better covering. I ran mine 7500 and I would not suggest changing first oil before 5000 miles.
 
A rather long thread already exists on the higher octane gasoline experiment for our American 2.0L, none of the results are conclusive which comes as no surprise.
I saw something about it here, but don't recall that it was an exhaustive discussion of the topic. I certainly don't want to waste money on more expensive gas if there's no good reason to. It's an intriguing possibility though.
Also, regarding your comments on AAS (Active Adaptive Shifting), I'm not sure this is as effective an adaptive software program as you seem to believe. Just reading the description in the owners manual would seem to indicate otherwise. Sounds like it's an override that modifies shift points temporarily to suite immediate conditions. Doesn't say anything about long term logic changes. Do you know otherwise?
 
Also, regarding your comments on AAS (Active Adaptive Shifting), I'm not sure this is as effective an adaptive software program as you seem to believe. Just reading the description in the owners manual would seem to indicate otherwise. Sounds like it's an override that modifies shift points temporarily to suite immediate conditions. Doesn't say anything about long term logic changes. Do you know otherwise?

It's quite effective for drivers that consistently drive somewhat aggressively, the temporary modified shift points stay that way if the car is consistently driven in same manner. I have 9K miles of hands-on driving experience with the vehicle with me as primary driver for 98% of miles driven so far. Of course if the vehicle is driven for extended periods by 2 or more very different drivers, the transmission will adapt accordingly (then the shift point changes are essentially temporary as you described).

Long term logic changes are most likely not part of the AAS, and are not desirable. Given that the car is driven for an extended period by a more sedate driver, the AAS should revert to original settings to allow the highest fuel efficiency and quietest operation. More adaptive than permanently self-healing, as it should be.
 
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I saw something about it here, but don't recall that it was an exhaustive discussion of the topic. I certainly don't want to waste money on more expensive gas if there's no good reason to. It's an intriguing possibility though.

There was an exhaustive discussion on the topic, (not that it was very meaningful). And a lot of speculation and inconclusive reports/results too.
 
...BTW: My trip home from San Diego will be 605 miles according to GoogleMaps, so the engine will be officially broken in by Friday evening!

Make sure you check the manual for the 600 mile break-in recommendations:
No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.
- Do not race the engine.
- Do not maintain one constant speed, either slow or fast, for a long period of time.
- Do not drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
- Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
- Avoid full-throttle starts.
- Do not tow a trailer.
 
That's why I'll be taking 101 home rather than 5. Makes it easier to abide by those recommendations.
 
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