engine blown

yeah i think that was outrageous, i think they tried to do me dirty! and no my boost controller was of when i turned it in the only things that were in my car was the cai, and the cat back exhuast. the ecu was what they read. and yeah im in hawaii.
 
im just trying to see were i can get the hook up here locally. anything cheaper than what the dealer is trying to charge me. anything i just need to get my car fixed ... and not screwd.
 
speed6808 said:
so how much u guys think i should pay for and enginge???? or get it rebuild???

It's hard to say without knowing exactly what is damaged on your motor and what can be re-used.

If you had a rod go through you block there is no gettin it rebuilt, you will have to get a new block. If you have to get a complete replacement shortblock and get the head and oil pan swapped over(assuming the head needs no work), and the everything reinstalled I could see you running somewhere around 6K.

If the regular mazda6 block will bolt up to the MS6 head an tranny, and you don't have to get MS6 specific OEM parts you could probably get up and running for about 4K~5K,

You could also go with a performance built shortblock(if a regulr 6 block and crank will work) with forged pistons and rods with everything else re-installed for about the 5K~6K.
 
that sounds pretty good i can do about 6k-7k. i have to look at my car cuz i just got it back if there is no hole on the block ill be pretty much be straight.
 
at 130-140 in fifth that car had to be in redline....why would you redline the msp6? everyone knows it works best if you shift at 5800-5900 anyways
 
Before the dealer bends you over...

Make sure you read this:


MAGNUSON MOSS WARRANTY ACT

US Code - Title 15, Chapter 50, Sections 2301-2312

Legally, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle (per the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. 2302(C)) . For best results, consider working with performance-oriented dealerships with a proven history of working with customers. If your vehicle manufacturer fails to honor emission/warranty claims, contact EPA at (202) 260-2080 or www.epa.gov. If federal warranty protection is denied, contact the FTC at (202) 326-3128 or www.ftc.gov. For additional information, check out the following links:



They need to PROVE that your Mods did the damage.

http://www.magnusonproducts.com/magnusonmoss.htm
 
im pretty sure i was not redlining. can the they actually read ur ecu and tell u what caused the problem on ur car????
 
speed6808 said:
im pretty sure i was not redlining. can the they actually read ur ecu and tell u what caused the problem on ur car????

as in like a "Black Box" so-to-speak?

As I said...they need to PROVE your mods caused the failure. I would stick to that plan of attack rather than just forking over all that money.
 
speed6808 said:
still have not got my car back from the dealer, but they said that connecting rods came out the oil pan, or the block or something, they said that the inspector looked up into my ecu and saw hi boost. i think the engine itself is around 16000. with labor like around 21000, i said thats crazy!! thats kind of what i owe on the car. i was not redlining but i was going around 130 140 at fifth gear at around 5 or 6 rpm

Post Pictures...
 
It appears as though you already know it is your fault due to you ignorance of my posts trying to help you save all that money. Good luck.
 
Maybe this thread is BS all around.


Post a pick of the estimate?

Still you can report it to the insurance company and they will make the dealer prove that the mods are what caused the problem.
Sometimes the insurance company can be your friend just talk to the agent before he goes to the shop.
 
speed6808 said:
so a cx-7 engine might work??? ill try to post some pics.

Same motor and the junk yards may not know how good it is, like they will when you say "mazdaspeed6".
 

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