Egr To Obx Problem!!!
- Thread starter Mr. 4500 RPM
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Mr. 4500 RPM
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- Black P5
khaosman said:Well buddy, it can be doneAfter much cussing and whatnot, I managed to get it on. The best tip was to have two people do it. I had my mom thread the nut while I pushed on the valve. The spring bolts on the exhaust were somewhat annoying, but I got them too. Did you guys have a slight gap between the exhaust and header? It is really small, and I imagine the gasket fills that.
It definitely sounds different. I only went for one quick spin so far, but I liked what I heard. lol I still doubt anyone will hear my car at the autocrosses... not that that is a bad thing. Oh and not to scare any potential buyers, it is because I have stock exhaust.
As far as performance, it felt pretty good! It does feel stronger in the upper RPMs. I had my buddy and his girl in the car... even he said he noticed a difference. I'll go take a spin now without the extra weight and see what it is like
Oh and end links are definitely worse.
well yeah but i dont want to strip any thread and it can wait another day to do the right job...i know what i gottas do...i am going to take the header off and attatch the egr prior to header
THEGOLDPRO
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n0ob!
Mr. 4500 RPM
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- Black P5
THEGOLDPRO said:
asss...
and yeah like ive posted....first mod/car so yeah....
WetsuitxNinja
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- Mz3
I had the same issue, stupid thing wouldnt go so I blindly tried to bend it to fit, lets just say my car has been running without the EGR hooked up, and a cap on the header. I ordered a new EGR tube for 40 bucks or so from mazda-parts-dealer.com, so ill have another chance to get it right this time. So bending the bung\post on the header helps this out?
i dont think it would be a good idea to try and bend the post on the header. when you go to put your new egr tube attach back side of engine first, then loosen the header bolts and line the header post and egr tube nut for proper threading. tighten header boltsWetsuitxNinja said:
When the bends are made, a weak spot is created along the outer edge of the tubing. Oftentimes, attempting to bend the tube by hand will cause this area to buckle. That's why many have recommended against bending the tube. When connecting the tube to the header prior to tightening down the header, the stress is distributed more evenly than by grasping two sections of tube and attempting to bend. Although not the best way to achieve a proper fit, it is a considerably safer (in regards to not damaging the tube *again*) alternative.
Mr. 4500 RPM
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- Black P5
ok my obx header in no way can connect to the egr valve...ive tried so many different ways and i give up. ive tried connecting it before bolting down but too much space ot lighn up. only way is to bolten it down to close the gap but it still wont lighn up...we got it closer then in the pics but nothing still so i reverted to stock and have small issues right now....
WetsuitxNinja
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- Mz3
Did you buy yours from ebay? I did, and i swear it seems to me that there is NO WAY in ****** hell it would line up when I first tried it. So I tried to bend it to make it work, but that was no good. That egr pipe is pretty tough to bend by hand. I called a local shop when I was having this problem and they quoted me 40 bucks to get it done. When I get my new egr and car out of the body shop, im going to take it in and not **** with it anymore. I know the aggrivation you are going through. I too went back and forth between stock and obx like 10 times. Go to home depot and get a cap that will fit on the end of your header egr bung, Ive had my car like that for a few months w\ no CEL or any problems...
I too bought my OBX header off eBay. The first time I installed it, I was able to get the fitting to seat with the header loose, but still hanging on the studs. When I replaced the motor, I had to have the header completely off the studs to get the EGR tube connected. I then manipulated the header back on to the studs and threw on a couple of nuts to hold it in place while I set up the bolts.
Come to think of it, I don't recall if the studs came stock or if I added them. If they don't come stock, I'd suggest adding a couple to get the header aligned. . . it makes it a lot easier to install.
Come to think of it, I don't recall if the studs came stock or if I added them. If they don't come stock, I'd suggest adding a couple to get the header aligned. . . it makes it a lot easier to install.
Mr. 4500 RPM
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lol when possible...in my situation its impossible....i tried, my friend and i tired and nothing...there is no way in hell i could get the egr pipe anywhere near the header...and i mean anywhere without bolting the header to the car all the way...
we tried manipulating it and everything else possible with no avail...we tried so many different ways that well i said **** it and now i am stock....and yeah and its still not 100%
we tried manipulating it and everything else possible with no avail...we tried so many different ways that well i said **** it and now i am stock....and yeah and its still not 100%
AJ, like I said last night and today. quit ******* with that stock header and put the OBX on, take it to a muffler shop, and pay them to get that EGR pipe on. Will be worth it. And make sure you use soapy water to clean the header before you fire up. That smoke you saw the other night was from your greasy paw prints on it.
And also, no taking to the the ******* dealer, goddamnit.
And also, no taking to the the ******* dealer, goddamnit.
Agreed, it is pretty much impossible to get it hooked up with the header off.
I bolted my header down with about half the bolts and nuts. I removed that bolt that holds the egr valve to the block. Then I pulled the EGR valve towards the front of the engine bay while having someone else thread the nut when it was in place. I also put anti-sieze on the threads. Once it was on, it went pretty easily. I finger-tightened it a good bit, then used a wrench.
You can do it man. I cussed a bunch at first, but then got some help and it worked.
I bolted my header down with about half the bolts and nuts. I removed that bolt that holds the egr valve to the block. Then I pulled the EGR valve towards the front of the engine bay while having someone else thread the nut when it was in place. I also put anti-sieze on the threads. Once it was on, it went pretty easily. I finger-tightened it a good bit, then used a wrench.
You can do it man. I cussed a bunch at first, but then got some help and it worked.
