EGR blockage?

$23 for a Canadian EGR Valve from Amazon (I got the last one), shipped free with Prime, vs $80 from Rock Auto for an American one plus a gasket, plus shipping.
 
$23 for a Canadian EGR Valve from Amazon (I got the last one), shipped free with Prime, vs $80 from Rock Auto for an American one plus a gasket, plus shipping.

Wow,... That's cheap...
I do think you should hook it up completely... It would probably be way more reliable.
 
I don't think it's that hard to hook up...
Mostly just routing and where to put the clips and zip ties.



Apparently some don't come with instructions...
I posted them all in some other thread somewhere.
 
On Sunday night, I hastily reassembled it (missing two screws) since I was having an issue with my backup car. Immediately after reassembling, I found that the idle was low and rough. After driving 20 miles to work, the idle seemed to be stable at 700 rpm (I think it used to be 800). Driving home I had it stumble a couple times, accelerating from a stop, but I've had no problems since. All monitors are set, and I'm not throwing any codes. Problem fixed? Hopefully....
 
Not actually Balmer, we're pretty close. Funny thing was, other than uncertainty and the screws snapping, I'd say EGR was remarkably essy. I think it took a half hour to get it out and about the same to get it in.
 
Yes, I think the diagram is correct, but basically the way it works is C and D are always powered: A, B, E, and F are grounded to actuate. But you are going through a sequence, so its like: B, A, F, E, B, A, F, E, B, A F, E etc, to go one direction and then it would be E F A B E F A B E F A B to go the other, but there are 24 possible sequences and I don't know which is right.

Oddly, I've found a couple really good deals on the Canadian EGR valve (new), so I'm just going to buy one. I presume you can just plug the hoses and not worry about them, or hook it up as shown.

I do like your SST.

the mortal kombat cheat codes ive been looking for all my life is in this post!
 
....I found that the idle was low and rough. After driving 20 miles to work, the idle seemed to be stable at 700 rpm (I think it used to be 800). Driving home I had it stumble a couple times,...

If you had your battery disconnected, your ECU was just relearning how to idle the car.

Your idle speed sounds about right.

 
Well, I got the EGR, its definitely the Canadian EGR valve and even has a Mazda Genuine Parts sticker on it, very complete.
 
$23 for a Canadian EGR Valve from Amazon (I got the last one), shipped free with Prime, vs $80 from Rock Auto for an American one plus a gasket, plus shipping.

Yea... Great price...

Did it come with installation instructions ???

 
So did you hookup the tubes and stuff or just leave em hanging ??!

(Or is your original EGR still working ???)
 
So did you hookup the tubes and stuff or just leave em hanging ??!

(Or is your original EGR still working ???)

Sorry for disappearing. I have not had a recurrence of the code since cleaning the EGR, so I have not touched it -- why replace something that ain't broke.. Still have the new one in the "original packaging" (which is a plastic bag, but it does have a Mazda part number on it).
 
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