Dyno done, time for cams.

twilightprotege said:
my bottom end - and i love this - like stock! hehehehehe i have pretty well lost no bottom end even with big cams and big exhaust. the reasoning - well designed intake cam. only ever so slightly larger than the j-spec on duration and a bit bigger on the lift.

cams, i was meaning 270 duration on the intake, 280 on the exhaust, and leave the lift as you stated for each.

my track times - i'm really hoping to get into the 14's without touching the ecu. that would be a great accomplishment i think. with drag radials on 15's, the bigger injen intake (i have the 2.5 and not the newer 2.75 but getting it (swapping mine for it really)), fidanza flywheel, clutchmasters stage 1 clutch, rr-racing underdrive pulley and maybe a little bit of weight reduction, i hope to get into the 14's. then with a microtech lt-8s... :D :D :D
Click to expand...



Your my hero.
 
I agree with dbilas dynamic, go smaller. 272deg is what tweeked DSM 2.0L's use and i would think only the exhaust needs it. maybe 260+ intake and no more than 270 exhaust, since intake is bigger already.
 
Well , a friend of mine went on dyno today and it seems that we have generally lower numbers than you do. He has full exhaust but with 4-2-1 header and basically the same intake I have. His numbers were:
133hp@6400
161Nm@4500
97whp@6000

So my headwork has gained me around 10hp or is his engine very soft allready :). Now well try to find a stock 323F to go on the dyno to see what that shows. Also hopefully one other 323F with header and exhaust and intake will go on a dyno, then we will see if everything is as it should be.

But on sunday I'll take my cams off and they are going to reground , hopefully receive these in 1 week and then back to the dyno.
 
If you are having your cams reground, as opposed to having billets ground than I highly doubt you will be able to reach the numbers you mentioned before. The best you can get on a regrind is generally a 10deg increase in duration w/ about + .010" lift increase.

For example when i had an exhaust cam regrind done the max they could get me was 260deg @ .010" and 204@.050" and .333" lift, just a heads up. Although on your intake cam you could conceivably get higher numbers around 215-220@.050" and >.350" lift with 260@.010", but what would it be worth with such a restrictive exhaust. Get cam gears first, than get true billet grinds to more detailed specs, otherwise you are wasting your money.
 
Last edited:
twilightprotege said:
my bottom end - and i love this - like stock! hehehehehe i have pretty well lost no bottom end even with big cams and big exhaust. the reasoning - well designed intake cam. only ever so slightly larger than the j-spec on duration and a bit bigger on the lift.

cams, i was meaning 270 duration on the intake, 280 on the exhaust, and leave the lift as you stated for each.

my track times - i'm really hoping to get into the 14's without touching the ecu. that would be a great accomplishment i think. with drag radials on 15's, the bigger injen intake (i have the 2.5 and not the newer 2.75 but getting it (swapping mine for it really)), fidanza flywheel, clutchmasters stage 1 clutch, rr-racing underdrive pulley and maybe a little bit of weight reduction, i hope to get into the 14's. then with a microtech lt-8s... :D :D :D
Click to expand...

Bigger intake is not always better. But try It I like being proved wrong LOL...
 
bigger intake is not always better correct, however, for max power, the intake tube should be apx 125% of the diameter of the throttle body. so 125% of the 55mm = 2.7". adding a big for wall thickness, 2.75" intake pipe is right for max power. max torque comes from having the pipe only slightly larger than the throttle body. so the earlier injen pipe @ 2.5" is about right for that.

justme - see if you can get details on @ 0.050" duration specs. seat specs are good ways of fooling people. take my intake cam. 396 deg duration! but only 217 duration @ 0.050" (cam specs only).
 
yep, stock springs. however, my valve lift is only 8.9mm.

idle's like stock. well i cant really tell because of the front and rear hard awr engine mounts, but it has no problem keeping an idle
 
Now, another question, about setting the cam gears.

I'm doing the most of it on dyno , but would like to know which way to start going. Intake should be advanced and exhaust retard? Advance mean move the cam counter clock? and retard means clockwise?
 
start off by retarding the exhaust 2 degrees until you get power. if you dont, advance it. then once you have max power by adjusting the exhuast cam, adjust the intake cam the same way, but advance first rather than retarding
 
No information at the moment, but just one question.'

How many mm is the cams position pin? The pin that goes in the cam gear? Andrew, you have your cam gears off at the moment , can you measure it from cam gear?

Or anyone else maeby?

About my car, I will receive my cams in 5-6 of april and then during that week I'm going on a dyno, so stay tuned :)
 
What there so confusing?

Blue is torque, red is engine hp, green is whp. All the dynos calculate engine hp and whp, but most of the users check only whp.

peepsalot said:
OK, color me completely lost, that's the most confusing dyno sheet I've ever laid eyes on.
Click to expand...
 
Yes it does vary. The whp is calculated by the drivetrain loss by rolling from redline to 0 rpm-s on free gear ( or was it in the gear you dynoed the car, didn't check that at the dyno time ). That is the way the dyno knows the drivetrain loss.

peepsalot said:
How can the dyno know what your drivetrain loss is. Does it not vary form car to car?
Click to expand...
 
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