Downpipe - risky mod?

[iracer7]

From what I've seen and read, it seems that the downpipe and AP are 2 mods that are risky compared to instakes, race pipe, etc. I would love to install one but I only have 5k miles on my car and have 55k miles left on my powertrain warranty. Should I get a dp? Is my thinking wrong when it comes to thinking the dp and tuning increases the chance of blowing up more than other mods?

 

[Saskatchewan17]

With your mods, and the addition of a DP, you really need to start looking at a safer tune and fuel pump upgrade so you don't blow up your motor. Your warranty is already in trouble with the mods you have now. Downpipes are a b**** to install on this car. It could take up to 6 hours or so and requires a lot of patience. But a downpipe does yield great results. Much improved airflow and in turn a nice boost in power. 5k and all those mods? Wow, you don't like to keep it stock, do you?

Now waiting on MSMS3's response... (he seems to always jump in and provide a very nice response to questions like yours).

 

[iracer7]

Yes but I can take these off pretty easily too. Getting a dp seems like a PITA because of the install and the other mods it requires.

 

[Darth Vader]

It is a transformational mod on the car though. Sound, driveability, power, smoothness are all heavily impacted by this, for the good. Risky? Hard to know what you mean. Any change from stock is risky. However, it's given me no grief having a CS DP and RP, other than revealing the fact that my CDFP s*** the bed. You want risk? airflow mods without a pump upgrade, that's risk.

 

[SomnoSpeed3]

Looks like you are at the "all in" phase of modding. Haha! Once you add one thing that is super hard to just tAke right off, you might as well add more! Get all you want and a tune to go with it since your warranty will likely be gone anyway.

 

[AllLostThings]

I've honestly only been staying away from one because the less expensive ones are catless which really doesn't fly on the sniffer test and throws a CEL is not fooled to bypass it. Sometimes even that doesn't work and you still get a CEL...boom, no inspection sticker. I've read that even some of the catted ones will still throw a CEL. I really want a COBB catted DP but I'm just worried about it messing everything up and having to remove and sell it.

 

[Darth Vader]

You'll still pass a sniffer with the CS DP and second cat installed. ...and it won't throw any codes either.

You could just throw a test pipe in place of the second cat and see how you like that. It's really easy and a solid gain on this car. Easily reversible, too.

 

[Saskatchewan17]

^He has a test pipe... and a heap of other mods... that's why I say with an addition of a DP to his mod list, he will need an upgraded pump and safer tune.

 

[MSMS3]

With OP's mods, a downpipe is the next logical step, provided he has a way to constantly monitor boost and provided he has a way to keep up with what his engine is doing with AFR's and further provided he has no fuel pressure issues. But that TurboXS race pipe would love to be connected to the TurboXS catless downpipe!

Since he already has a good intake, a race pipe and a bigger intercooler, he's ready for the dp. Yes, it's a b**** to install, but well worth the extra effort.

With the bigger IC, he probably needs to look into either a custom AP tune or at least a pretty advanced multi function real time monitoring and logging device like Dash Hawk.

I do see that OP is running a dual port BOV, apparantly set 50% bypass, 50% VTA. I say that's not good for this engine and will contribute to running richer and losing some power, especially right after a shift. If OP thinks that running 50-50 solves the drivability problem, maybe so, but it does not solve the fact that oxygen is escaping to atmosphere that the MAF and ECU intend to be burned during combustion. That's lost power. This engine needs pure recirculation, whether you have a true BPV or a BOV.

A downpipe is a serious mod, that builds serious power. and requires a serious level of attention to make sure OP stays safe.

On stock tune there are enough safeguards in place that as long as sustained boost does not go above 18-19 psi, OP will probably be safe, because under potentially harmful conditions, the stock ECU will probably reduce boost, pull timing back, slap him down with fuel cut or all of the above. That's not a bad thing, IMHO. While unwelcome when it happens, fuel cut is your engine's friend.

He's probably at the point in his mods that he should be knowing what his fuel pressure is and that also means Dash Hawk or AP.

He'll not realize the full potential of his car after the dp addition to his existing mods without a tune, but tune can lead to either bliss or zoom, zoom, boom, especially if boost is taken over 18 sustained on the stock turbo or AFR's allowed to get too lean above high 11's, or the stock safety mechanisms bypassed in the tune, IMO.

I say OP should drive what he has another 5k miles but with good monitoring in place and get used to what his car is doing now before stepping up, but then go with whichever downpipe he can do where he lives (catted or catless) depending on what he has to do to pass inspection.

 

[iracer7]

Thanks for the advice. I currently don't have a monitoring device. I've never had problems with the car, no strange sounds, no CEL's. I would get a DH but an AP can basically do the same thing as the DH with regards to monitoring. Not sure I wanna spend $500 for an AP...yet.