Door Panel removal l?

Dude, I’ve tried to take it off. I still cant figure it out. So i gave up. I was gonna fiberglass mine but if its that hard to get off it’d be 100x harder to get back on fiberglasses. If you figure it out. AWESOME Post it.
 
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ok, so I took the panels off today. Not a huge deal.

1.) remove the tweeter panel ( it just pulls off)
2.) pull the little carpet patch in the door pull handle, and remove screw
3.) pop off the plate in the door lock/handle and remove screw
4.) pull the panel gently w some force to get plastic tabs to release (7 of them)
5.) push the door lock mech. through the door toward the cabin and pull back through door
6.) unplug window switch harness
 
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Well 6.5" speakers wont just bolt in, the require an adapter, which I ordered...

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What speakers did you install?

I bought some new speakers today and they are slightly too deep so i will need to by a spacer which is no problem.
But the new speaker have a different connector to the Mazda fit ones. Mazda ones have the white plug connector whereas the new ones just have 2 prongs. Is there a special adapter that i need to buy?
 
I installed Polk DB651s's in both the front and rear. They are slim versions as I didn't want to fabricate speaker spacers. I got metra adapter for the speaker holes. On the speaker wires I just cut off the mazda harness and soldered on some wires with the ends that worked with the speakers. An adapter would be great, but not sure anyone makes one yet. You might try the metra site.

The polks were a marked improvement.
 
How did you hook up the wires. The Mazda connector has 4 wire going to the speaker. I expected two. I'm thinking two wires hook it up, four wires screw it up.
 
I turned the stereo on and used the two that produced sound... not very scientific but it worked...
 
As an FYI, the four prong front speaker connector is really only 2 prongs doubled for the tweeter wire. The rears are two prongs, but in the same 4-prong housing. I simply snipped it off and soldered new wiring to install my Polks speakers. Used the DB651S for the rear and the DB6501 for the front. Use a voltmeter to check polarity when the music is turned on as the speakers have a positive/negative sides, I forgot which color is positive.

Additionally, the adapter used in the photos is too small (in outer diameter) to get a solid attachment to the panel; at least for my comfort level. I made wood adapters using 3/4" MDF. A pain but not difficult to do with a good jig saw and sharp blade.
 
If there are 4 wires going to the front speakers, does that mean two of those go up to the pillar for the component tweeters?
 
No need for speaker adapter: Smart trick

Well 6.5" speakers wont just bolt in, the require an adapter, which I ordered...


Hello dude! I actually placed a Pioneer TS-1685s (that's a 6.5' 60w nominal) and although an adapter was needed, i did something else!
First thing, i removed the door panel, and detached the adapters (the factory speakers are actually attached to those adapters).
Second thing, I used a cutter to remove the factory speaker from the adapter so that i'll be left only with the adapter!
Thirdly, you may notice the factory adapter easily plugs to the system via a clean input socket! What you need to do is weld the wiring from the pioneer to the adapter!
Fourthly, using 4 screws, I fixed the Pioneer to that adapter (be cautious not to break the plastic or wooden part below cushion: It shall be tricky to fix the speakers to that adapter but you may see the 6.5' fits approximately!)
Fifth, attach the adapter to its original location, clean and perfect!

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The adapter i used stepped the speaker out to meet the door car rear...







Shaun......
 
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