Do You Love Your Mazda? Ditch That 0W-20 Oil!!!

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not saying 0W20 is bad,

just saying it's highly suspicious that North America (USA and Canada) CX-5's are spec'd with 0W20 and everywhere else is 5W30

Mazda trying to squeeze out as much MPG that they possibly can .......
even if it may be bad long term for the engine, as long as they hit CAFE numbers.....

Mazda gets fined for every 0.1 MPG not met which translate to huge costs to Mazda's wallet,
so they squeeze as much as possible even if it means thinner oil......
http://www.autonews.com/article/20160716/OEM11/307189981/industry-blindsided-as-cafe-fines-jump

North America CAFE article: https://www.albertaoilmagazine.com/2015/09/north-americas-new-fuel-economy-standards/

https://bobistheoilguy.com/

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary

wrong... have you looked at the other country's manuals and websites that show their oil "accessory" lineup?
mazda specs their non-turbo, non-diesel skyactiv engines in developed countries to use 0W20... in europe, in japan... they're 0W20... the mazda branded oil is made by Total S.A. in europe, and Idemitsu in japan... the recommendation for Castrol is US, canada, and australia only, while in australia, the mazda branded oil is from castrol... the US mazda branded 0W20 with moly is from Apollo America (Idemitsu) and the canadian mazda branded 0W20 is from petrol canada

only is 5W30 allowed due to availability issues of 0W20 in many countries... all the other heavy weight oils are just copy and pasted from decades old materials because people in some countries, such as australia, refuse to change their habit from using some 15W50 or whatever insanity, thus general availability of even 5W30 is low

while CAFE is a factor, blaming the choice of using 0W20 solely on it, is ridiculous


can all of you please let this thread die???
 
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I know this is highly unscientific but from my experience,

I find products that are sold out at Wal-mart after weekend driveway mechanics stock up to work on their cars

during the weekend tend to be the best, whether it be engine oils, car waxes/washes.....

I just find it interesting Pennzoil Platinum (actually reasonably priced @ $22.97 for 5 qt. jug) product line is sold out across the board except 0W20....

although no one touched the Pennzoil Gold Blend or the European Pennzoil

Castro and Mobil 1 fully stocked,

before I get flamed, I know this is stupid but thought it was interesting Pennzoil was sold out.... Bob is the oil guy rated Pennzoil very good






BITOG also rates 0-20 M1 AFE as excellent
 
I didn't know what CAFE was but although by no means a tree hugger, I absolutely agree that we can't keep raping the planet. Most responsible nations are imposing stiff restrictions on emissions and fuel usage. If part of that is low viscosity oil then we should encourage its use and not reject it. We'll be wanting 5 star leaded fuel back next.
 
OK. This thread seems to have oil experts posting here. I found this Moly oil additive on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)
Should I add this to my oil during an oil change? Don't get me wrong, I like Amazon and I buy from them, but they do sell crap as well as good stuff. They sell pretty much anything. Is this any good? Should I buy a case? I use 0w-20 Synthetic oil.
 
OK. This thread seems to have oil experts posting here. I found this Moly oil additive on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)
Should I add this to my oil during an oil change? Don't get me wrong, I like Amazon and I buy from them, but they do sell crap as well as good stuff. They sell pretty much anything. Is this any good? Should I buy a case? I use 0w-20 Synthetic oil.

I'm personally not a huge moly fan. Other more advanced adds exist, and I don't think it does a whole lot, really. Read the list of vehicles (there are many) that have owners that coaxed them through 1 million or more miles. NONE OF THEM talked about the oil additives, etc. They said things like "changed oil every 3K like clockwork" and "accelerated gently and anticipated stops" the like. Not "I use unicornjizz oil-slicker-upper in MY crank-case!"
 
This debate is absurd.

-It is proven that oil weight does not influence film-strength.
-It is proven that thicker oil...is thicker.

If the clearances inside the engine were made for 0-20, then 0-20 is sufficient to maintain pressure and will have better flow than heavier oil, reducing hot-spots. It will stress the oil-pump less, as well. IF you track the vehicle (it's a damn family hauler...wtf!?), then yes, you can spike the oil temp and thin the oil below typical operating parameters, and a heavier oil might be required for the optimal flow/clearances.

But the clearances were not designed for 0w20. the Skyactiv-G engine is an evolution and a carryover design from the Mazda L engine. the blocks are the same, and those clearances were designed to be used with 5w30.

5w30 is not too thin, and it's not too thick either. it's really not as thick of an oil like many of you believe. 0w20 is... well.. for gaining 0.1 MPG and nothing else...
Oh, GJ, this guy says RP makes his engine run smoother.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3rd-gen/274921-great-oil-debate-0w20-v-5w30-5.html#post4581281

Are you going to call him a liar, or ascribe "placebo effect/false conclusion" much like we are to you?

no, because I havent tried that oil myself so I can't assume its quality based purely on what I read from the internet. it's the same situation where you skeptics won't know the benefits of 5w30 until you actually try it for yourselves.

I know this is highly unscientific but from my experience,

I find products that are sold out at Wal-mart after weekend driveway mechanics stock up to work on their cars

during the weekend tend to be the best, whether it be engine oils, car waxes/washes.....

I just find it interesting Pennzoil Platinum (actually reasonably priced @ $22.97 for 5 qt. jug) product line is sold out across the board except 0W20....

although no one touched the Pennzoil Gold Blend or the European Pennzoil

Castro and Mobil 1 fully stocked,

before I get flamed, I know this is stupid but thought it was interesting Pennzoil was sold out.... Bob is the oil guy rated Pennzoil very good






seems like the driveway mechanics know what to look for then.

not saying 0W20 is bad,

just saying it's highly suspicious that North America (USA and Canada) CX-5's are spec'd with 0W20 and everywhere else is 5W30

Mazda trying to squeeze out as much MPG that they possibly can .......
even if it may be bad long term for the engine, as long as they hit CAFE numbers.....

Mazda gets fined for every 0.1 MPG not met which translate to huge costs to Mazda's wallet,
so they squeeze as much as possible even if it means thinner oil......
http://www.autonews.com/article/20160716/OEM11/307189981/industry-blindsided-as-cafe-fines-jump

North America CAFE article: https://www.albertaoilmagazine.com/2015/09/north-americas-new-fuel-economy-standards/

https://bobistheoilguy.com/

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary


This sums up the purpose of the thread with one post right here. THIS is why so many cars use 0w20 and it's not benefiting anyone except for CAFE and the car makers.

I didn't know what CAFE was but although by no means a tree hugger, I absolutely agree that we can't keep raping the planet. Most responsible nations are imposing stiff restrictions on emissions and fuel usage. If part of that is low viscosity oil then we should encourage its use and not reject it. We'll be wanting 5 star leaded fuel back next.

how big of a difference are we going to make with emissions when 0w20 saves you 0.1MPG of fuel?

I'm sure you'll be fine using 0w20 in your car, but any sort of spirited driving in a hot climate is going to destroy your engine really quickly like in Christopher's situation, which is when the thicker oil really comes in handy.
 
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But the clearances were not designed for 0w20. the Skyactiv-G engine is an evolution and a carryover design from the Mazda L engine. the blocks are the same, and those clearances were designed to be used with 5w30.

5w30 is not too thin, and it's not too thick either. it's really not as thick of an oil like many of you believe. 0w20 is... well.. for gaining 0.1 MPG and nothing else...


no, because I havent tried that oil myself so I can't assume its quality based purely on what I read from the internet. it's the same situation where you skeptics won't know the benefits of 5w30 until you actually try it for yourselves.



seems like the driveway mechanics know what to look for then.




This sums up the purpose of the thread with one post right here. THIS is why so many cars use 0w20 and it's not benefiting anyone except for CAFE and the car makers.



how big of a difference are we going to make with emissions when 0w20 saves you 0.1MPG of fuel?

I'm sure you'll be fine using 0w20 in your car, but any sort of spirited driving in a hot climate is going to destroy your engine really quickly like in Christopher's situation, which is when the thicker oil really comes in handy.

PP sure is hard to find in my local Walmarts. Let alone 0w20. May have to look into 5w20 PP. That said the "w" that means "winter" right? the "20" is the weight.
 
I'm actually beginning to think that the clunk is coming from my trans.. It sounds just like a rod knock but I did some testing today (backing up and moving forwards) and noticed the sound seems to happen when only when I'm moving. If I slap neutral and rev the engine while moving the clunk still happens at the same frequency as when I was moving idling. I'm going to get a second opinion from the shop I planned to get my engine replaced at. If that's the case, then I just refreshed the bearings on my engine at the least and hopefully everything was to spec
 
I'm actually beginning to think that the clunk is coming from my trans.. It sounds just like a rod knock but I did some testing today (backing up and moving forwards) and noticed the sound seems to happen when only when I'm moving. If I slap neutral and rev the engine while moving the clunk still happens at the same frequency as when I was moving idling. I'm going to get a second opinion from the shop I planned to get my engine replaced at. If that's the case, then I just refreshed the bearings on my engine at the least and hopefully everything was to spec
Sorry to hear that. If you didn't see anything wrong while replacing connecting rod bearings, transmission should be the next to check. We've seen quite a few transmission problems here after all. Please keep us posted.
 
I'm a devout user of unicorn jizz motor oils and never had an issue but yrmv! And Captain Lawrence powder dreams..cpt larry finally redeemed himself...
 
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batmancx - I think it's insane to base your decision on observing the buying habits of local Walmart shoppers vs. following the recommendations of the automotive engineers who designed your engine.

GJ-Molestor - I've owned both the 2.0L (2003) and 2.3L (2005) versions of the Mazda L engine, and both called for 5W-20. Besides, you don't know the detailed design differences between the Mazda L engine family and the current Skyactiv family, and you don't know what the bearing clearances are.

Unfortunately I missed the beer topic, but I wanted to comment on "session" IPAs, which I don't think I've ever enjoyed a good example of. I enjoy IPAs, and they work for me when the strong hop flavor is balanced. The session IPAs I've tried seem to lack balance and have an almost metallic hop flavor. To me, they demand to be drinked slowly like a real IPA and aren't very session-able. So it seems like an oxymoron to me. For a "session", I'd much rather have something with a clean, crisp, dry finish and about 5% ABV like a Czech Pilsener, or even an old school Canadian ale like (gasp) Molson Export that I used to drink when I was younger. But by far the most session-able beers I've had are English cask ales. I used to really enjoy them when I was traveling there.
 
batmancx - I think it's insane to base your decision on observing the buying habits of local Walmart shoppers vs. following the recommendations of the automotive engineers who designed your engine.......
.

to be fair, batmancx did admit himself it was stupid and he wasn;t basing his decision on Wal-mart shelves, he was just pointing out an observation......

don;t give automotive engineers to much credit... these are the same ones who designed the CX-9 transfer case and the CX-9 water pumps that leak into engine.... tons of issue....

also the engineers are under tremendous stress to reduce costs anyway they can, you can see all the penny pinching they did, c'mon for example, seriously? giving the wrong size spares to AWD owners ???

and with CAFE fines up from $8 to $14 for every 0.1 mpg over per vehicle , you better damn believe they will do anything to save the company money with their high volume CX-5... just don;t think they have your best interest in mind, they're trying to keep their jobs


at the end of the day, this point is moot, no point trying to convince each other which way to go 0W20 vs 5W30, we're all grown ups, we make our own decisions and just live with it, there's no right or wrong , and in all honestly 0W20 vs 5W30 isn;t all that much different really, we're just beating a dead horse here.
 
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and with CAFE fines up from $8 to $14 for every 0.1 mpg over per vehicle , you better damn believe they will do anything to save the company money with their high volume CX-5... just don;t think they have your best interest in mind, they're trying to keep their jobs

The stock low rolling resistance tires really do make a difference on getting max mpgs too. Well at least compared to aftermarket tires with more aggressive grip.
 
batmancx - I think it's insane to base your decision on observing the buying habits of local Walmart shoppers vs. following the recommendations of the automotive engineers who designed your engine.

GJ-Molestor - I've owned both the 2.0L (2003) and 2.3L (2005) versions of the Mazda L engine, and both called for 5W-20. Besides, you don't know the detailed design differences between the Mazda L engine family and the current Skyactiv family, and you don't know what the bearing clearances are.

Unfortunately I missed the beer topic, but I wanted to comment on "session" IPAs, which I don't think I've ever enjoyed a good example of. I enjoy IPAs, and they work for me when the strong hop flavor is balanced. The session IPAs I've tried seem to lack balance and have an almost metallic hop flavor. To me, they demand to be drinked slowly like a real IPA and aren't very session-able. So it seems like an oxymoron to me. For a "session", I'd much rather have something with a clean, crisp, dry finish and about 5% ABV like a Czech Pilsener, or even an old school Canadian ale like (gasp) Molson Export that I used to drink when I was younger. But by far the most session-able beers I've had are English cask ales. I used to really enjoy them when I was traveling there.
Many are very hoppy and do lack balance in a traditional sense which i typically like when well executed but here are some that actually are relatively well balanced:
Super session from lawsons in warren vt..can't say enough good things about these they punch well above their weight class.
Auburn from knee deep in cali is also very nice, crisp and clean
Grunion from balast (a pale not ipa) also solid
 
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