Delsing Klunk Fix Brackets!
- Thread starter Micaspeed!
- Start date
Food for thought:
"Early in the development of the MP3, Jim Mederer (Racing Beat's chief engineer) determined that the endlink attachment bracket on the stock shock body would not be strong enough if the car was to be equipped with larger sway bars. The prototype bracket and endlink set shown below was fabricated to address this issue. Also shown is a prototype sway bar mount (gray bracket.) This mount was not included in the production of the MP3 and is not available through Racing Beat. (Photo of left rear wheel assembly.)"
From: https://www.racingbeat.com/Protege/ProjectMP3/ProjectMP3.htm
"Early in the development of the MP3, Jim Mederer (Racing Beat's chief engineer) determined that the endlink attachment bracket on the stock shock body would not be strong enough if the car was to be equipped with larger sway bars. The prototype bracket and endlink set shown below was fabricated to address this issue. Also shown is a prototype sway bar mount (gray bracket.) This mount was not included in the production of the MP3 and is not available through Racing Beat. (Photo of left rear wheel assembly.)"
From: https://www.racingbeat.com/Protege/ProjectMP3/ProjectMP3.htm
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Micaspeed!
Member
Checking in.
Finally had a chance to check in here. Wow, a lot going on. Hey Peepsalot, should have e-mailed me direct, I check that at least once a week or so.
From what I can gather from the earlier posts, his problem could very well have resulted from not moving the bar stop as suggested in the instructions. This will cause odd angularity to the strut. If a bolt is loose, especially in this useage, it will have a greater likelyhood of failing.
You know, to be honest, I had a difficult time deciding to offer the end links to the public. Not that they do not improve the handling, they have to be set correctly, they will make noise and have to have the rod ends replaced periodically. But......they do stiffen up things quite a bit. MAM's suggestion for the high angle capable rod ends is right on. Only they are about $50.00 or more each. If it is set up right, I can not see having a problem under normal use. The rod ends can be purchased through "JEG's". If you want the kit only to get rid of the Klunk, then you will do fine just with the kit and pass on the end links. Stocks work fine. My original design intent was to make brackets for a larger rear bar. They work very well to simply get rid of the Klunk.
Some cars I see, the lateral arm comes way close to the grease fitting if used with the energy suspension greasable bushings. I would unthread the fitting and use when greasing.
As far as having the end arms level, this should be done. In the neutral state if the bar is level, then when it is called upon during transiant maneuvers, it will be in the optimum position and move through an acceptable arc.
Well, I am finally at a point where I am contemplating doing another run of the brackets. Spoke to my welders today. What would you guys like to see different? Let me know in the post.
Like I said before, pricing will be $269.00 without bushings.
Godspeed!
Dave
www.delsingmotorsport.com
Finally had a chance to check in here. Wow, a lot going on. Hey Peepsalot, should have e-mailed me direct, I check that at least once a week or so.
From what I can gather from the earlier posts, his problem could very well have resulted from not moving the bar stop as suggested in the instructions. This will cause odd angularity to the strut. If a bolt is loose, especially in this useage, it will have a greater likelyhood of failing.
You know, to be honest, I had a difficult time deciding to offer the end links to the public. Not that they do not improve the handling, they have to be set correctly, they will make noise and have to have the rod ends replaced periodically. But......they do stiffen up things quite a bit. MAM's suggestion for the high angle capable rod ends is right on. Only they are about $50.00 or more each. If it is set up right, I can not see having a problem under normal use. The rod ends can be purchased through "JEG's". If you want the kit only to get rid of the Klunk, then you will do fine just with the kit and pass on the end links. Stocks work fine. My original design intent was to make brackets for a larger rear bar. They work very well to simply get rid of the Klunk.
Some cars I see, the lateral arm comes way close to the grease fitting if used with the energy suspension greasable bushings. I would unthread the fitting and use when greasing.
As far as having the end arms level, this should be done. In the neutral state if the bar is level, then when it is called upon during transiant maneuvers, it will be in the optimum position and move through an acceptable arc.
Well, I am finally at a point where I am contemplating doing another run of the brackets. Spoke to my welders today. What would you guys like to see different? Let me know in the post.
Like I said before, pricing will be $269.00 without bushings.
Godspeed!
Dave
www.delsingmotorsport.com
Micaspeed!
Member
Hey FlyinMSP,
Good photo, this is basically what Mazda had Tokico incorporate in the design of the MSP shocks. If you look at a stock Protege strut, the end link attachment is different. A few of the World Challenge Protege's do not even attach to the strut at all !
Godspeed!
Dave
www.delsingmotorsport.com
Good photo, this is basically what Mazda had Tokico incorporate in the design of the MSP shocks. If you look at a stock Protege strut, the end link attachment is different. A few of the World Challenge Protege's do not even attach to the strut at all !
Godspeed!
Dave
www.delsingmotorsport.com
Ok, so arms level AND make sure the bar isn't loaded.Micaspeed! said:
After looking at the struts on my MSP, the mount point for the endlink seems to be exactly the same as the MP3 one (same struts anyway, I think) -- not really built up. Sooo ... I don't think I'm going to fool with the Delsing endlinks on the MSP. I'm just going to put my brackets on and be done with it.
Today I put back the original (stock) endlinks. The arm is slightly pointing down since the endlinks are a bit longer but it is almost parallel to the ground. I'm quite satisfied with the result as I found that the car with the Delsing endlinks was too stiff for me (prolly great for autocross though). It's less stiff than before but, nonetheless, stiffer than the OEM setup. The bracket alone stiffens things up. For me that's the best balance (some people may prefer it stiffer, but not me), the car feels really nice! 
Besides, I now also have some peace of mind although after I tightened up (and aligned) the Delsing endlinks there was no longer any banging at all. The OEM links are more flexible so I believe that they are less taxing on the strut...
Besides, I now also have some peace of mind although after I tightened up (and aligned) the Delsing endlinks there was no longer any banging at all. The OEM links are more flexible so I believe that they are less taxing on the strut...I finally got around to reinstalling my brackets this weekend. I've been suffering with the stock bushings since I got the MSP because I was getting the brackets powder coated (the brackets were getting a bit rusty and the paint was coming off in places). All I can say is that this experience confirmed that buying these brackets was the best thing I've ever done for this car.
Entertaining side note: My dad was helping me with the install. When he saw the stock setup (bushing placement, sway bar arm length, etc.), his words were essentially "Ehm, Mazda expected that to work!? No wonder there are so many problems with the stock bushings!" IMO these brackets really are the only good way to solve this problem. There's just no way a bushing in the stock location can really do its job properly.
Entertaining side note: My dad was helping me with the install. When he saw the stock setup (bushing placement, sway bar arm length, etc.), his words were essentially "Ehm, Mazda expected that to work!? No wonder there are so many problems with the stock bushings!" IMO these brackets really are the only good way to solve this problem. There's just no way a bushing in the stock location can really do its job properly.
Micaspeed! said:
Thats great to hear that your ready or close to ready to do another run of these!!!!
I hope all of you who wanted a set of these have emailed him and not just posted that you want a set of these in this thread. He stated that the best way is to email him.
I think $269 is a fair fee for these....
rizzo said:
you get the klunk fix kit!!!
plus it makes your rear-end stiffer...
http://www.delsingmotorsport.com/
remember to email him... not pm, but email him...
This kit completely replaces the Mazda bushings with "standard" bushings you supply (the Energy Suspension bushings have been popular). It also moves them out towards the wheels by about a foot, which makes the sway bar function properly (and, hence, the rear end stiffer). Since I installed mine, all I've had to do is some regular (3k miles or so) greasing of the bushings, which is about a 10 minute job (and you don't even need to jack the car up).
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- '03.5 Blazin' MSP (sold) ................. '14 Soul 6 GT
Murray said:
How do you grease them? Please post.(shrug)
367 (mp3yellow
It depends on which bushings you get. If they have grease fittings (see here for an example), you just slide under the car, just in front of the back wheels, plug in a grease gun ($12 or so at Wal-Mart), and squeeze 2-3 times. Repeat that on the other side and you're done. It's raining right now so I can't take pictures but I'll try to remember when it dries out, if anyone's interested.
