DSMConvert said:All they have to do is prove that the aftermarket wheels are a different weight from the stock wheels simple as that...if they vary by more than half a pound they can legally state that the added weight caused the issue...case closed.... dealerships don't stay in business by having crappy lawyers...you can rest assured if there is a way to do it their lawyers have come up with a way to stop it... Regarding going through all that effort, why wouldnt they? You're legally obligated to pay for all service provided after you approve said service. You're gambling against the dealership...if they win they get to charge you for ALL the work, if they lose you get it free. If they think the odds are in their favor they'll double up everytime.
Because alignments only cost 49 bucks. I mean DUH.(bicker)
Now on the cupping issue...what brand are your tires? Several tire companies/suppliers have been known to sit on tires for months at a time...when rubber begins to dry out it will tend to cup and wear uneven...if they are the tires that came on it, not much you can do as they'll blame your driving, so you're best bet is just to get a new set...however if you got new tires with the rims I would questions the storage and stock rotation policy of your local tire shop you got them from. As a perfect example I had a tire literally come apart on me during a race and when we tracked down the issue it turned out that the tire that came apart had been produced over 1.5yrs before I bought it(luckily it was an Eagle GSC on my vette and the mfg was more than happy to replace it being as that they have an internal policy of not letting their tires sit anywhere near that long and being sold as new)...stupid tire shop had just let it sit thinking rubber doesn't go bad. most high performance tires with come with either A. a serial number or B. a date code which you can get translated by the tire mfg simply by calling them.
Read the Magnussen Warranty Act.