Dave's audio install & sound deadning

[MyZmZm]

subbin' as well for final outcome and review of the difference before and after...

looks great, very well done! this is something i would very much like to do as well (goodness knows i'll have enough time on my hands this summer)... what were the most difficult things that you encountered? any tips for others looking to do this and diving in blind like you did?

 

[whitemp5seattle]

holy crapola...beautiful write up! I would love to take a long weekend and just do the sound dampening part - the p5 is kinda loud on the freeways compared to some other cars I've been in. still love it though!

 

[dave45090]

any tips for others looking to do this and diving in blind like you did?

Yeah....don't be scared. I have had a blast w/ this project so far. I jumped in and started plastering b-quiet per the pictures I had found on this forum. I just used my best judgement and bought tools as needed. Speaking of tools....a must have....

This will help so much.....trust me.

 

[kudakev615]

interior panel clip removal tool FTW!

 

[dave45090]

And the entire set......

 

[chuyler1]

Wow! Looking good Dave! I wish I had the time and space to rip apart my car for 4 days and install carpet padding. I've heard from others that it makes a huge difference.

Do you have a running total for everything you have purchased thus far?

That is only 50sq feet of B-Quiet? I guess that stuff goes a long way.

One note of critism...You should cover up all the openings in the door panels. You can cut pieces of 1/4" MDF or ABS to size, screw them in place, and then cover them with B-Quiet. Also, if you have any left over, you should cover the back of the door panel with it as well. The former will help with low end bass up front while the latter will prevent the panel from rattling when you get that bass. If you don't do both, you'll find that a crossover setting of 90-120Hz is necessary for music enjoyment. I tend to want to squeeze out 70-80Hz out of my fronts so that is why I pay close attention to the door installation.

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

are these a different size speaker than stock?? it looks great.

i'd like to do this soon as well but i'm gonna use the spray dampener.

 

[dave45090]

One note of critism...You should cover up all the openings in the door panels. You can cut pieces of 1/4" MDF or ABS to size, screw them in place, and then cover them with B-Quiet. Also, if you have any left over, you should cover the back of the door panel with it as well. The former will help with low end bass up front while the latter will prevent the panel from rattling when you get that bass. If you don't do both, you'll find that a crossover setting of 90-120Hz is necessary for music enjoyment. I tend to want to squeeze out 70-80Hz out of my fronts so that is why I pay close attention to the door installation.

This is exactly the type of response I was looking for. Thanks Chris. I will get to this very soon.

Thanks again for all the response guys! I can't wait to get back to it this weekend.

 

[dave45090]

are these a different size speaker than stock?? it looks great.

Yeah these are 6.5". Hence the speaker adapter.

 

[mazpro]

great work man (thumb), subscribing for the final result.

 

[chuyler1]

Boostd, when you reply to a posting with lots of photos, there is no need to keep all the photos in your reply quote. We've already seen the photos. Just reply with perhaps the specific photo you are asking about so you don't break the flow of the discussion.

And, yes it is possible to install 5.25" or 6.5" speakers in the stock locations by using adapter baffles. There is a HOW-TO on making them in the how-to section and it is also referenced in the Speaker Sizes sticky thread.

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

Boostd, when you reply to a posting with lots of photos, there is no need to keep all the photos in your reply quote. We've already seen the photos. Just reply with perhaps the specific photo you are asking about so you don't break the flow of the discussion.

And, yes it is possible to install 5.25" or 6.5" speakers in the stock locations by using adapter baffles. There is a HOW-TO on making them in the how-to section and it is also referenced in the Speaker Sizes sticky thread.

my bad. i just didn't realize it. sorry.

 

[Kansei]

I can't wait until I get my intercooler piping remade all nice and a couple other things done with my car and then I can move on to Revision 2 of my audio install

 

[dave45090]

I can't wait until I get my intercooler piping remade all nice and a couple other things done with my car and then I can move on to Revision 2 of my audio install

You know.....I actually stumbled upon your audio thread during my research. I mean't to ask if you had completed it and just didn't finish the thread or what.

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

first things first for me..getting the b**** running/tuned/painted.. THEN i do audio.

 

[FoxPro5]

Very, very nice work Dave!! Thanks for sharing.

Been there, done that. Ripped the entire interior out just like that, did some mass loading and added carpet padding. You will be happy with the results. Acutally it's kind of a fun project. You really get to see how cheaply put together a $14,000 car really is!!

As Chulyer mentioned, you might want to seal up the access holes on the doors. I initially left them open and then went back and sealed them up. Let me tell you, the effect was the midbass just shot out into the cabin like a cannon!! Can you say vibrating pant legs. Final product will look something like this: http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l173/barnz008/Installpics14.jpg

Also, a 1 cuft square piece of closed cell foam directly behind the driver will help kill the back wave from bouncing off the door skin and causing cancellation. I used a camping pad from WalMart. Deflex pads can do the trick, but there are cheaper options that do just as good of a job. Here's mine as an example: http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l173/barnz008/P1011036.jpg

I would also recommend some type of decoupler between the mid and the baffle and also the baffle and the door itself. Weather stripping works great on the mid and Non-hardening modeling clay or strip caulk works great on the baffle. I think this would be pretty much necessary with a metal to metal connection. If it's already done and the pics don't show it, than nevermind. Non-hardening modeling clay on a HDPE baffle: http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l173/barnz008/P1011039.jpg

Again, great work! Hope the tips and pictures help.

Looks like you had some hard little workers at your side too!

 

[dave45090]

Thanks for the pics.....that helps a good bit. I will probably tackle the things listed next weekend. I will wrap up what I'm doing now first. It should be pretty cool hearing the set-up and comparing it after I have done what you and Chris suggested.

 

[MyZmZm]

i got some professional grade accoustic insulation/sound deadening that i was planning to use on the hatch floor and in the wheel well (it's about 1/4" thick non-compressed, if that makes sense). would it also work to use this on the floor of the cabin and in the hatch and back door panels? or would this not provide the right kind of sound dampening needed? i already have dynamat in the front doors...

 

[FoxPro5]

i got some professional grade accoustic insulation/sound deadening that i was planning to use on the hatch floor and in the wheel well (it's about 1/4" thick non-compressed, if that makes sense). would it also work to use this on the floor of the cabin and in the hatch and back door panels? or would this not provide the right kind of sound dampening needed? i already have dynamat in the front doors...

As long as it's nonabsorbant or closed cell foam, you're ok I think.

It won't add any weight, but it can make for a quieter ride and a louder stereo by keeping the music in and the road noise out.

I'd say nice and thick on the firewall actually. That's a real trouble spot.

 

[mazdaspeed777]

subbin for pics