2007~2015 CX-9 Water pump problem. Possible engine damage?

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Mazda cx-9 2008
Cześć. Dziś na 5km odcinku zepsuła się pompa wody. Świeci się głowica wałka rozrządu 2 i błąd wałka. Później sprawdziłem ale podczas jazdy myślę co za check i nie przyszło mi do głowy że to od silnika. Po 2km słyszę jak pracuje wentylator, schodzę do domu kolegi. Zamaskuj się. Brak płynu. Kakao na bagnecie. Silnik pracował cicho do samego końca a temperatura nie rosła. Mam nadzieję, że nic nie jest uszkodzone w silniku. Mazda cx9 2008r

Via Google Translate…
Hi. Today on a 5km section the water pump broke down. The camshaft head 2 and the camshaft error are on. Later I checked but while driving I think what a check and it didn't occur to me that it was from the engine. After 2km I hear the fan working, I go down to my friend's house. Mask up. No fluid. Cocoa on the bayonet. The engine ran quietly until the very end and the temperature did not rise. I hope nothing is damaged in the engine. Mazda cx9 2008
 
@Admins: Wish this forum would separate Pre 2016 and post 2016 CX9s. Totally different cars.
Side note…The reason we don’t have separate model-based Forums is based on past experience. Organizing Forums this way can actually reduce activity and thread responses because it splits attention and for some models that don’t have as strong a following as others, the reduction can be drastic. Also it reduces the number of Forums and Sub-Forums that people have to sift through.

That said, we do offer thread prefixes and encourage making the distinction. In addition, thread titles are sometimes manually updated to be more accurate and descriptive. Plus we offer a powerful search function and the ability to watch threads and Forums etc.

On a related note, the title for this thread has been updated to be more descriptive.

Now let’s get back to the thread topic, thanks.
 
Side note…The reason we don’t have separate model-based Forums is based on past experience. Organizing Forums this way can actually reduce activity and thread responses because it splits attention and for some models that don’t have as strong a following as others, the reduction can be drastic. Also it reduces the number of Forums and Sub-Forums that people have to sift through.

That said, we do offer thread prefixes and encourage making the distinction. In addition, thread titles are sometimes manually updated to be more accurate and descriptive. Plus we offer a powerful search function and the ability to watch threads and Forums etc.

On a related note, the title for this thread has been updated to be more descriptive.

Now let’s get back to the thread topic, thanks.

Very interesting. I bet it would hit your sites Google Ranking if you did this. Thanks for the insight.

It's also important to provide year and trim information in general. Often this is necessary to answer the thread's questions.
 
Cześć. Dziś na 5km odcinku zepsuła się pompa wody. Świeci się głowica wałka rozrządu 2 i błąd wałka. Później sprawdziłem ale podczas jazdy myślę co za check i nie przyszło mi do głowy że to od silnika. Po 2km słyszę jak pracuje wentylator, schodzę do domu kolegi. Zamaskuj się. Brak płynu. Kakao na bagnecie. Silnik pracował cicho do samego końca a temperatura nie rosła. Mam nadzieję, że nic nie jest uszkodzone w silniku. Mazda cx9 2008r

Via Google Translate…
Hi. Today on a 5km section the water pump broke down. The camshaft head 2 and the camshaft error are on. Later I checked but while driving I think what a check and it didn't occur to me that it was from the engine. After 2km I hear the fan working, I go down to my friend's house. Mask up. No fluid. Cocoa on the bayonet. The engine ran quietly until the very end and the temperature did not rise. I hope nothing is damaged in the engine. Mazda cx9 2008
No fluid/coolant left ??
Or no fluid leaked ??

It depends.
if the pump just stopped/froze and you still have full coolant then doubtful you caused any engine damage in that short distance. I've driven several miles without circulating water until able to pull off and no engine damage.
Just install a new water pump.

However, If you lost most of your coolant then there could be and most likely is some engine damage. Best to have a mechanic check and see if worth fixing. You may even need new or get another used engine from salvage yard.
 
If the check engine light is on because of a camshaft position error and there is no coolant in the reservoir, I am afraid you have experienced the water pump failure where coolant leaks into the crankcase. The coolant mixes with the oil, which caused the variable valve timing actuator to fail.

Check the engine oil. If it looks like a chocolate milkshake, you have a major problem.
 
Nie mam płynu w zbiorniku. Olej jest brudny. Temperatura nie przekraczała 90 stopni Celsjusza. silnik pracował normalnie. Działał doskonale. Czy nie wystarczy przepłukać silnik z osadu? Wymień olej 2-3 razy. Mam już pompę wody i pasek rozrządu. Każdy wyciek płynu szkodzi silnikowi? Przejechałem 3km i chyba po tym czasie pompa się zepsuła. Jechałem powoli, zatrzymałem się od razu i odkryłem problem.

I have no fluid in the tank. The oil is dirty. The temperature did not go above 90 Celsius. the engine was running normally. It didn't go out. He worked perfectly fine. Isn't it enough to rinse the engine of sludge? Change the oil 2-3 times. I already have the water pump and timing belt. Every fluid leak damages the engine? I drove 3km and I think after that time the pump broke down. I was driving slowly, stopped right away and discovered the problem.
 
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I have no fluid in the tank. The oil is dirty. The temperature did not go above 90 Celsius. the engine was running normally. It didn't go out. He worked perfectly fine. Isn't it enough to rinse the engine of sludge? Change the oil 2-3 times. I already have the water pump and timing belt. Every fluid leak damages the engine? I drove 3km and I think after that time the pump broke down. I was driving slowly, stopped right away and discovered the problem.
No. But their is a high probability it may have been damaged. If engine didn't get that hot and you didn't drive that long, you may be ok.
Is there still coolant in the radiator?

Is the oil merely dirty, or milkshake or gooey like jello?

Take note how much you coolant you drain out.
I guess you could change water pump, etc.. wouldn't hurt.
You will just be out your labor and parts cost for water pump and time belt.

If oil was only dirty(no water in oil), after new water pump... Drain oil, refill with new oil & filter and run several miles then drain again and refill and see how runs.

If oil is really watery, foamy, gooey, etc. better to have it towed and have engine specialist look at it.

Best case is you got lucky and have no problems.

Worst case scenario is you need a replacement engine and just wasted your time with water pump install.

Good luck.
 
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There is cocoa color oil on the measuring cup. His condition is higher. I touched the oil and it's greasy slippery so it's not the radiator water itself. Surely the liquid got into the oil and is mixed. I don't know if there is coolant in the radiator because I haven't checked it. The water pump definitely needs to be replaced. I'm taking the car to the mechanic on Saturday. Then I will know something and I will share the news with you.
 
There is cocoa color oil on the measuring cup. His condition is higher. I touched the oil and it's greasy slippery so it's not the radiator water itself. Surely the liquid got into the oil and is mixed. I don't know if there is coolant in the radiator because I haven't checked it. The water pump definitely needs to be replaced. I'm taking the car to the mechanic on Saturday. Then I will know something and I will share the news with you.
It's hard to explain. It will be sludgy milkshake look if mixed. That's a bad sign. Try look on internet for pics and compare to your oil.
If looks like the pics and looks bad, you need to get to mechanic sooner than later. See if maybe someone can look at it tomorrow or Thursday.
Antifreeze/water mixture is very corrosive as well as sludge is stuck throughout engine.
If thick sludgey oil, don't drive any further and get it towed to mechanic. When friends old car(like 13 years old) engine went the sludge was all over... we just replaced with a junkyard engine.

However, they might be able to clean it out...maybe flush it? If they can flush(or suction out) then that would be best option.
At the point they need to tear down and rebuild, you might as well get new engine, a used salvage engine or a new car. If not able to be flushed, compare prices for rebuild versus other options.

Fyi: from what you are explaining it sounds like you just have old oil that needs changed but you need to determine whether it is or isn't mixed. My friends problem was due to head gasket failure. The only water pump failure I had on my Toyota did not mix oil and coolant. Based on jal142s post, it sounds as if certain water pump failure can let coolant into Mazda engines. So you need to be sure what has occured.
 
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I have fluid in the oil. The expansion tank is empty. The engine worked for a short time, 3-4 km. The temperature gauge did not go up. The fan came on and I pulled over to the side of the road, the engine was running normally, I turned it off myself. The car is waiting for a tow truck and I'm taking it back on Saturday. There is a large amount of oil on the dipstick that has changed color.
 
I have fluid in the oil. The expansion tank is empty. The engine worked for a short time, 3-4 km. The temperature gauge did not go up. The fan came on and I pulled over to the side of the road, the engine was running normally, I turned it off myself. The car is waiting for a tow truck and I'm taking it back on Saturday. There is a large amount of oil on the dipstick that has changed color.
Ok. Good luck. Hopefully they can suck the engine clean and refill oil.

These cars are even rare here in US. Very few end up in junkyard thus very few parts to get from junkyard.

Probably even less chance of getting salvage parts in your country. My suggestion for you, when you buy another car, would be to get a more common car that is sold alot in your country thus will be more junkyard part available should any major problems happen.
 
I suspect that the error, as I was able to read the apk forscan, about the error in the position of the shaft or camshaft head 2 is the fault of the pump. She got slack and the chain got loose. There I think. It's winter for me now. The temperature is low. The engine warms up slowly, driving a few miles with a leaking pump should not damage the engine. I hope. Thank you for contacting me.
 
If it is OK now and you do drive it that may finish it off. A 'few miles' on an engine that basically has no lubrication will kill it.
Yes. It's not how cold it is outside or how little miles you drive, at this point, if it's mixed, especially if it's thickened sludge, it's not circulating through engine. Better to have towed. Money for tow is alot less than money for engine.
 
I heard the fan twice and stopped the car. Then I noticed that there was no fluid in the tank. I didn't start the car anymore. I'm waiting for the tow truck for 2 more days and I'm taking the car to the service center. The mechanic has to see the drive shaft from underneath. Will install a new water pump and timing belt. Lid seals and shaft simiering. We pour oil and engine rinse for half an hour of engine operation and drain the oil. of course coolant fl22. I hope that oil and fluid didn't do any damage.
 
I heard the fan twice and stopped the car. Then I noticed that there was no fluid in the tank. I didn't start the car anymore. I'm waiting for the tow truck for 2 more days and I'm taking the car to the service center. The mechanic has to see the drive shaft from underneath. Will install a new water pump and timing belt. Lid seals and shaft simiering. We pour oil and engine rinse for half an hour of engine operation and drain the oil. of course coolant fl22. I hope that oil and fluid didn't do any damage.

If you do happen to need to replace the engine, in addition to junkyard 2008-2015 CX-9s, you can try to source one from a 2009-2013 Mazda6 V6, a 2009-2012 Lincoln MKS, or a 2010-2012 Lincoln MKT. They all use the same Ford Duratec engine.
 
I have a request. please indicate the tightening force of the screws: 1 - the screw of the shaft pulley. 2- bolts of the camshaft gears. 3 - slide screws. 4 - bolts of the water pump. 5-bolts of the timing cover.6-bolts of the tensioners. What else to pay attention to in order not to make assembly mistakes
 
 
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