2016~2023: CX-9 Rear diff failure at 113k kms (70k mi)

sm1ke

2018 Mazda CX-9 Signature
Moderator
Contributor
:
Canada
I'm posting this to vent, but also to inform.

Back in January, I noticed that the car started making loud clunking noises. They were coming from the rear and seemed to be intermittent at first, but I soon realized that I could only hear the sound when the traction control light turned on and AWD was supposed to engage. I contacted my dealership to book a diagnosis appointment, but they seemed very skeptical that this was an AWD issue and assured me that if there was an issue with the rear diff or the AWD system, I'd have a warning light on the dash (there are no warnings or lights, and no codes stored). They basically refused to schedule an appointment because they were not confident they could diagnose the intermittent noise and just wrote off my concerns about a possible rear diff failure. I contacted them a few times and also spoke with an independent mechanic, who said the same thing about codes and warning lights appearing if there was an issue with the AWD system.

In August, I did a transfer case and rear diff drain and fill myself to confirm my assumptions. The transfer case fluid looked good, but the rear diff fluid came out silver/gray, and I was able to use a pick to pull a bunch of metal chunks out of the drain hole.

I've tried to get assistance from my dealer, which I knew I wouldn't be much help as I do all my service myself and because my car's powertrain warranty lapsed in 2023. I've had issues reaching Mazda Canada via phone because both numbers that are available (Regional Office and Mazda Customer Relations) will either ring with no answer, or I'd get a message that said to call back later. It didn't seem to matter when I called, I could never get through to anyone. I finally sent my complaint through the "Contact Us" form on the website and someone eventually got back to me. I was hoping to reason with them to get some form of goodwill assistance, but it's not looking good. Bad luck I guess. They are denying that there is a manufacturer defect because if there was, I would have had issues well before the warranty expired. However, if there is no defect, and if there is no fluid change interval for the rear diff as they have posted in the manual, the differential is expected to last much longer.

The whole point of this is to let you all know that if your rear diff is failing, there is a good chance that you will not have any warning lights. This is a major safety issue as the car will behave unpredictably in low traction situations. The car thinks there is nothing wrong with the AWD system, so the traction control is less effective and the car will not "assist" when it should because it thinks AWD is active. It's basically worse than a FWD car with no traction control system now. Further, because there are no warning lights, drivers will not know that there is an issue to investigate. If I had a warning light, and if the dealership was better informed, I would have changed my rear diff fluid much earlier, and I may have been able to avoid a complete loss of AWD.

I don't know if a "late" fluid change is to blame here. When I drained the fluid into a bottle, I left it to settle, and when all the metal was at the bottom, I could see that the fluid looked just like the front transfer case's fluid. It's possible that the fluid was underfilled at the factory, as I had drained about 10oz of fluid with the metal bits included. All this to say, change your fluids. The manual doesn't specify an interval, and if you ask them, they will tell you it's a lifetime fluid - this is a lie. Change your fluid at 30k or 40k mi intervals. Save yourself the headaches I'm dealing with now.

At this point in the process, I will likely have to proceed to opening a case with CAMVAP. I just sent off one last email, so I guess we'll see. But it looks like this may be my first and last new Mazda. I can't support buying new from them if this is the kind of support I can expect. I know I'm out of warranty, but it doesn't change the fact that this component failed early and left me with an unsafe, unpredictable vehicle.

Anyone else who's had their rear diff replaced or serviced, what did it cost you? Did you go through the dealership or an independent shop?

AWD not working
Rear diff drain


20240801_203359.webp

20241202_003314.webp

20241202_003348.webp

20240801_212142.webp
 
Also for @PTguy, in case you're still looking for drain plug measurements. Looks like its M12x1.5.

20240801_205627.webp

20240801_205816.webp
 
I think this is the only TSB for the rear differential, but i am not sure this is your problem. Probably worth a look. I don’t think this TSB extends the warranty though.


Unfortunately like most car companies the manufacturer support is mostly dealer dependant. In my experience, if the dealer wasn’t fighting for me, the corporate office wasn’t stepping in. That was with Ford and based on the various comments on the forum here it seems to be the case with mazda as well.
 
:(
If Mazda doesn't step up, will you get a replacement from a salvage car?

I considered going to a junkyard but removing a rear differential may be out of my wheelhouse, and depending on the price difference, it may not be worth the headache, especially since I wouldn't be able to determine whether the diff is functioning properly, whether it's been abused, etc. Still, I haven't started pricing anything out yet, nor have I done any research into what is involved with replacing the rear diff. All I know for sure is that a control module will need to be reprogrammed for the replacement differential.
 
I think this is the only TSB for the rear differential, but i am not sure this is your problem. Probably worth a look. I don’t think this TSB extends the warranty though.


Unfortunately like most car companies the manufacturer support is mostly dealer dependant. In my experience, if the dealer wasn’t fighting for me, the corporate office wasn’t stepping in. That was with Ford and based on the various comments on the forum here it seems to be the case with mazda as well.

Thanks for the link @youri. Unfortunately it doesn't look like this is related to my issue as there is no sign of any external damage to the diff.

That is an interesting bit of information about the EPB, though. I had no idea you were supposed to disengage the EPB before starting the car.
 
Oh man. Sorry about the car. This from probably one of the most meticulous owners on the forum (what I perceive anyways, not that I know too many here lol).

Now I'm gonna make sure to keep on top of my fluids, I'm at ~46,000 km.
 
Thanks for the link @youri. Unfortunately it doesn't look like this is related to my issue as there is no sign of any external damage to the diff.

That is an interesting bit of information about the EPB, though. I had no idea you were supposed to disengage the EPB before starting the car.

I think the language is a little misleading in the TSB. By starting the car i think they mean start driving instead of turning the ignition on. That would make sense because the next sentence says that can damage can occur when starting the car aggressively.

The annoying part in this is that the automatic EPB release is an advertised feature. (i.e. the EPB will release automatically when you start driving), but with the TSB we learn that if you do it too aggressively it doesn’t release fast enough and you may crack your rear differential
 
Oh man. Sorry about the car. This from probably one of the most meticulous owners on the forum (what I perceive anyways, not that I know too many here lol).

Now I'm gonna make sure to keep on top of my fluids, I'm at ~46,000 km.

Thanks. Yeah it's a tough pill to swallow. Made even worse by some redditors saying I deserved it for doing "no maintenance" despite my plans to do it at 100k kms (60k mi), which I thought was reasonable.

If I were you I'd change the fluid at 50-60k kms. And I'd do an ATF drain and fill too, if you haven't already. This is a very rare failure to have, so you shouldn't worry, but it never hurts to change fluids a bit early.
 
Thanks. Yeah it's a tough pill to swallow. Made even worse by some redditors saying I deserved it for doing "no maintenance" despite my plans to do it at 100k kms (60k mi), which I thought was reasonable.

If I were you I'd change the fluid at 50-60k kms. And I'd do an ATF drain and fill too, if you haven't already. This is a very rare failure to have, so you shouldn't worry, but it never hurts to change fluids a bit early.
Oddly enough, last time I was at my dealership (42,000 km), they actually recommended an ATF drain/fill.
 
Oddly enough, last time I was at my dealership (42,000 km), they actually recommended an ATF drain/fill.

It's very dealership-specific. Mine refused to even acknowledge that the ATF needed to be drained and refused to quote a price on the transmission fluid filter.
 
To sm1ke,Sorry for your car...now we are having doubt with our cx9,just purchased it used for 4.8k$ 2010 @ 142k miles,got hurt already with a rear shock and 2 tires replacement due to "tire cupping"...
just went for an oil change with dealership last week...and all fluids was flag to be replaced (Excluding transfer case)...pls see how much they charge here in ILLINOIS...i tried DIY already for coolant,power steering and differential.i have not seen any metallic aluminum in the magnet,hoping all are ok,and went back to the dealer for brake flushing and i requested transfer case fluid to be replaced as well,surprisingl they declined and stated not serviceable...i have seen you tube with this and will attempt this weekend...now they flag the front differential bushings for 1k$ :-( ...
overall the car is running smooth,engine is really quiet ,response is also good...we initially plan to just trade it in however value is not really good...so we decided just to keep and expect for the worse...
overall car is running ok ,smooth ride and quiet engine...there are just many ticking time bomb such as differential,transfer case and water pump...which all are huge bills...first mazda also and may be the last....
posted some items in this forums but very hard to get response...
 

Attachments

  • Mazda Dealer Quote 1.webp
    Mazda Dealer Quote 1.webp
    23 KB · Views: 23
  • Mazda Dealer Quote 2.webp
    Mazda Dealer Quote 2.webp
    25.6 KB · Views: 23
Oh man. Sorry about the car. This from probably one of the most meticulous owners on the forum
@sm1ke sure is…Not only meticulous but incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. Mazda Canada and their Dealer Network need to step up here and help resolve this asap!
 
To sm1ke,Sorry for your car...now we are having doubt with our cx9,just purchased it used for 4.8k$ 2010 @ 142k miles,got hurt already with a rear shock and 2 tires replacement due to "tire cupping"...
just went for an oil change with dealership last week...and all fluids was flag to be replaced (Excluding transfer case)...pls see how much they charge here in ILLINOIS...i tried DIY already for coolant,power steering and differential.i have not seen any metallic aluminum in the magnet,hoping all are ok,and went back to the dealer for brake flushing and i requested transfer case fluid to be replaced as well,surprisingl they declined and stated not serviceable...i have seen you tube with this and will attempt this weekend...now they flag the front differential bushings for 1k$ :-( ...
overall the car is running smooth,engine is really quiet ,response is also good...we initially plan to just trade it in however value is not really good...so we decided just to keep and expect for the worse...
overall car is running ok ,smooth ride and quiet engine...there are just many ticking time bomb such as differential,transfer case and water pump...which all are huge bills...first mazda also and may be the last....
posted some items in this forums but very hard to get response...

Honestly I would recommend getting a second opinion from a reputable independent shop to make sure the rear diff mounts need to be changed. Some dealerships are not as honest as they should be, and will quote repairs and services that may not be needed just to get more money from you.

I'm not familiar with the transfer case or automatic transmission fluid service on the 1st generation CX-9, but if it's anything like the 2nd gen, it should be fairly easy, especially considering the fact that you've already done the rear diff yourself. (y)
 
@sm1ke sure is…Not only meticulous but incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. Mazda Canada and their Dealer Network need to step up here and help resolve this asap!

Thanks @Antoine. I try to be as meticulous as I can, and despite Mazda not having a service interval for the rear diff, I knew to change it, but I probably should have done it sooner. The diff started failing in January, and the plan had been to do the differential service the summer before, but we had some other issues to deal with (unrelated to the car) so the rear diff kept getting pushed back until the snow fell. At that point it was too cold to do it in the driveway, and I thought I'd be ok pushing it to the spring, but we all see how that went lol.

I think going forward I'll be doing diff fluid changes every 50k kms (30k mi). It's really not hard to do with the right tools.
 
Sorry to hear this, I despise dealers anymore, and that is coming from someone who was a parts guy for 13 years at a dealer. Not Mazda, but they are all virtually becoming the same anymore, filled with easily controllable dumb people imho. To me, this trend started somewhere around 2010-ish. Most dealers you can't even call anymore without getting a call center first.

I drained and filled both of our diffs coming up on a year ago. My center diff was dark for obvious reasons, but the rear still looked virtually new.

I'm sure this repair won't be cheap...I feel for ya man. I know it won't happen, but with the price of these cars anymore, every last one of them should have a 100k warranty on the powertrain imo.
 
Sorry to hear this, I despise dealers anymore, and that is coming from someone who was a parts guy for 13 years at a dealer. Not Mazda, but they are all virtually becoming the same anymore, filled with easily controllable dumb people imho. To me, this trend started somewhere around 2010-ish. Most dealers you can't even call anymore without getting a call center first.

I drained and filled both of our diffs coming up on a year ago. My center diff was dark for obvious reasons, but the rear still looked virtually new.

I'm sure this repair won't be cheap...I feel for ya man. I know it won't happen, but with the price of these cars anymore, every last one of them should have a 100k warranty on the powertrain imo.

Yeah, I haven't started calling around for quotes yet, but I've been preparing for a big bill. I've at least narrowed it down to 3 or 4 reputable local shops that should be able to take this on.

The last email response I got from Mazda Canada was on Dec 4th. I sent a reply on the 5th, then a follow-up on the 13th when that email went unanswered. I still have not received an email response to my request to review the case more thoroughly.

Not once have they asked me to provide my service logs. I have even offered to provide my logs multiple times, and they have ignored my attempts. I was hoping to work with them to understand why the diff failed prematurely, to work with them to figure out exactly what needs to be replaced and how much it would cost. According to the standard process, a Mazda customer service rep is supposed to meet with me to further investigate the issue - that never happened. I expected them so want to bring the car in, diagnose the car to understand why there are no warning lights, make sure there is no external damage or signs of abuse, just anything to provide some sort of after-sales service to at least help point me in the right direction. Instead, once they found out the car was out of warranty, it's like they're strongarming me out the door and kicking me out on my ass. Truly a shame to feel this way only 6 years after becoming a first time Mazda owner who bought their flagship SUV.
 
Anyone know if there's a way to force the car to operate as if it was FWD only? Right now it doesn't recognize that the AWD has failed, so the traction control doesn't step in when it needs to in low-traction situations, making it very unpredictable. As far as I can tell, there is no AWD fuse I can pull to force it into FWD only.
 
Anyone know if there's a way to force the car to operate as if it was FWD only? Right now it doesn't recognize that the AWD has failed, so the traction control doesn't step in when it needs to in low-traction situations, making it very unpredictable. As far as I can tell, there is no AWD fuse I can pull to force it into FWD only.
Have u tried pulling the 30a ABS fuse, if I recall that forces all wheel drive but u also lose abs
 

New Posts

Back