Yes the car has been on the dyno a few times. DRtuned just released tuning support over the weekend and I'm not sure what the forum rules are for posting to a vendors site but I'll post the link to my video. This first release is to change drivability, this is for the people that don't want to increase peak boost but want the car to feel and perform better and he has labeled it an OEM+ tune. The next release will be chasing peak horsepower and pushing more boost, timing, etc. Cliffnotes are 18 peak whp and 33 lb ft torque at peaks and 50-60 whp and lb ft under the curve at various points. The car pulls to redline, turbo spools much quicker and in my opinion is how the car should have come from the factory.Was this dyno ever performed? Would love to see results.
For safety, you need to keep intake air as cold as possible, so bigger intercooler (air to air). Do NOT use a 'cold air intake' that pulls air from the engine compartment. Honestly, the stock intake probably flows more than enough.
I'd like to get your thoughts on the BMS intake. Most are naturally skeptical of claimed power increases from intakes, but they have posted Dyno gains.Yes, what the MAF tells you is simply the airflow going through the system. With an increase in boost pressure and the MAF readings following it that shows the air is being used. The factory system flows pretty well, we'll run into turbo sizing issues before anything really becomes a major bottleneck.
2 points:Note that most every “dyno test” is performed with the hood open, guaranteeing that the coldest air available goes into the intake. With the hood closed all the air going into many intakes goes through the radiator first, so it’s much hotter. Dyno tests may not mimic real-world results - but they do work well to sell aftermarket parts.
Of course I don’t know how BMS runs their testing, but I do know that tuners I’ve purchased from them in the past lived up to their claims based on my butt dyno and track times. Cold air intakes, I’m not so sure.
Note that most every “dyno test” is performed with the hood open, guaranteeing that the coldest air available goes into the intake. With the hood closed all the air going into many intakes goes through the radiator first, so it’s much hotter. Dyno tests may not mimic real-world results - but they do work well to sell aftermarket parts.
Of course I don’t know how BMS runs their testing, but I do know that tuners I’ve purchased from them in the past lived up to their claims based on my butt dyno and track times. Cold air intakes, I’m not so sure.
I'm not sure about the BMS system but the one that puts the filter out of the engine bay would likely be the best for heatsoak and cooler air. I ran the Corksport TIP and SRI on my car until recently. It had a very annoying harmonica like sound that I hated. I swapped the SRI with the factory airbox and a higher flow AFE panel filter and use the Corksport TIP. The harmonica noise is gone (as are the BOV noises) and am also seeing higher MAF readings than with the SRI and vs stock.I'd like to get your thoughts on the BMS intake. Most are naturally skeptical of claimed power increases from intakes, but they have posted Dyno gains.
Also this tuning solution looks really nice. Especially after the JB4 price increase.
I remember seeing that video. Interesting. I do want the BOV noises thoughI'm not sure about the BMS system but the one that puts the filter out of the engine bay would likely be the best for heatsoak and cooler air. I ran the Corksport TIP and SRI on my car until recently. It had a very annoying harmonica like sound that I hated. I swapped the SRI with the factory airbox and a higher flow AFE panel filter and use the Corksport TIP. The harmonica noise is gone (as are the BOV noises) and am also seeing higher MAF readings than with the SRI and vs stock.