2017~2025: CX-5 Rear Sway & Camber Arm Install

[CX_MCHNE]

Installed a 22mm hardrace rear sway bar (7028) and megan racing rear camber arms (MRS-MZ-1689) this weekend. Had trouble finding a good guide for it, so I'm writing up my experience.

I was thinking my AWD would complicate things, because:

1. Only hardrace sells (that I found [thanks, Chris]) a rear sway bar compatible with AWD, and they don't provide any installation instructions.
2. The service manuals I found say to replace the rear sway bar on AWD, the propeller shaft should be disconnected, which cascades into taking apart half the car.

The subframe absolutely does need to be lowered to replace either the rear sway bar or the rear upper control arms. So if you're (planning to be) lowered, and want have adjustable rear camber, do the rear camber arms while you're doing the rear sway bar. Thankfully, I didn't find it needed to be dropped enough to be a problem for any of the AWD system. The propeller shaft angled down just very slightly, maybe a couple degrees, nothing that seems like it'd be an issue for the CV joint, and with still plenty of clearance above the cross-plate bolted below the shaft. In general, following the Corksport install instructions for rear camber arms got the job done fine.

Procedure:

loosen lugs, lift and safely support, remove rear wheels

I removed this clip (10mm) and bailing wired the line (ABS sensor and parking brake?) out of the way

Loosen the 17mm outboard upper control arm nuts (if doing the camber arms).

I removed a couple wire harness clips to free up slack so the subframe can drop away from the body

Pop off the muffler (14mm)

Disconnect the end links from the sway bars (14mm + 5mm allen)

Now we lower the subframe, one side at a time. Use something to support the subframe near the middle. Make sure you have it well supported, you don't want the subframe to accidentally fall.

To drop the passenger side, I first loosened two 17mm subframe nuts on the driver side, taking the nuts down to the bottom of the threads. Then remove the two nuts from the passenger side.

Slowly lower your support to drop the subframe passenger side until the inboard control arm bolt is no longer pointing right into the body.

This also makes the forward sway bar bracket bolt accessible. Remove the passenger side sway bar bracket (14mm) and bushing.

 

[CX_MCHNE]

This is how far down the studs I lowered mine.

I bailing wired the hub to keep it from flopping forward once the UCA is removed.

Remove the inboard UCA bolt. This can be tough to break, After removing a plastic guard piece (10mm) attached to the lower rod (lateral link?) I was able to break it with the help of a pvc cheater.

Eventually:

Remove the outboard UCA bolt, and the UCA.
Adjust your camber arm to the same length as the stock arm.

Corksport gives 58-77 ft-lb, and 64-778 ft-lb for the inboard and outboard camber arm bolts, respectively.

Now, lift the passenger side of the subframe back up enough to get the subframe nuts fully threaded.
Repeat on the driver side to lower the driver side subframe, remove the sway bar bracket and bushing, and swap in the camber arm for the upper control arm.

Once you have both sway brackets and bushings removed. you should be able to finagle the bar out through the back, over the subframe, through the lighted crevice in the picture below.

Lube up the driver side bushing on the new bar, and sneak it over the subframe, into place between the mounting studs on each side. At this point, with the passenger side subframe nuts on, I couldn't fit the passenger side bushing in with the bar.

Install the driver side sway bar bracket. I got the stainless brackets and poly bushings from JB (SB-BSH-BRKT specify 22mm when ordering), and swapped out the straight zerks with 1/4" 90 degree grease fittings. Torque the nuts...good and tight? I added more grease here to make sure they're packed. Side note: I read silicone grease is a little better, but I hit three parts stores and couldn't find any. So I'm using a lithium-based grease.

Next, lift back up the subframe driver side, and drop the passenger side back down, so you can install the passenger side sway bushing and bracket.

Then lift the subframe back up and torque all 4 bolts to 68-81 ft-lb.
Reconnect the end links to the sway bar at 34-40 ft-lb.
Clip back the wire harnesses, put the abs line back.
Reinstall the muffler (optional), replace wheels, lower back onto the ground, torque lugs, and go get an alignment.

Took me a day and a half, taking my time, including naps.

I think that's it. Let me know if I missed/messed anything and I'll correct it.

 

[Davey_D]

Thanks for this! Hoping to do this in the future. Any idea if it is the same procedure for FWD?

 

[CX_MCHNE]

Thanks for this! Hoping to do this in the future. Any idea if it is the same procedure for FWD?

I believe so, yes. And I think you'll be less concerned about dropping the subframe too far. You probably don't need to worry about doing the one-side-at-a-time thing, you can just lower the whole rear subframe at once. So a little easier.

 

[yrwei52]

Installed a hardrace rear sway bar and megan rear camber arms this weekend. Had trouble finding a good guide for it, so I'm writing up my experience.

I was thinking my AWD would complicate things, because:

1. Only hardrace sells (that I found [thanks, Chris]) a rear sway bar compatible with AWD, and they don't provide any installation instructions.
2. The service manuals I found say to replace the rear sway bar on AWD, the propeller shaft should be disconnected, which cascades into taking apart half the car.

The subframe absolutely does need to be lowered to replace either the rear sway bar or the rear upper control arms. So if you're (planning to be) lowered, and want have adjustable rear camber, do the rear camber arms while you're doing the rear sway bar. Thankfully, I didn't find it needed to be dropped enough to be a problem for any of the AWD system. The propeller shaft angled down just very slightly, maybe a couple degrees, nothing that seems like it'd be an issue for the CV joint, and with still plenty of clearance above the cross-plate bolted below the shaft. In general, following the Corksport install instructions for rear camber arms got the job done fine.

Procedure:

loosen lugs, lift and safely support, remove rear wheels

I removed this clip (10mm) and bailing wired the line (ABS sensor and parking brake?) out of the way

Loosen the 17mm outboard upper control arm nuts (if doing the camber arms).

I removed a couple wire harness clips to free up slack so the subframe can drop away from the body

Pop off the muffler (14mm)

Disconnect the end links from the sway bars (14mm + 5mm allen)

Now we lower the subframe, one side at a time. Use something to support the subframe near the middle. Make sure you have it well supported, you don't want the subframe to accidentally fall.

To drop the passenger side, I first loosened two (19mm?) subframe nuts on the driver side, taking the nuts down to the bottom of the threads. Then remove the two nuts from the passenger side.

Slowly lower your support to drop the subframe passenger side until the inboard control arm bolt is no longer pointing right into the body.

This also makes the forward sway bar bracket bolt accessible. Remove the passenger side sway bar bracket (14mm) and bushing.

Thanks for the nice write-up. The process actually is a bit complicated than I thought. I guess you’ll have to get a 4-wheel alignment done with Megan Racing rear adjustable camber arms.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ Reinstall the muffler (optional)

 

[Catch22]

@CX_MCHNE thank you for taking the time to put this information out! You’re a boss!

I ended up getting an Autoexe RSB for my 2019 CX5 AWD, however, it didn’t come with new bushings/brackets. I’m assuming I could just install using the OEM bushings and bushing brackets.

Could you please verify the diameter of the OEM RSB?

Thanks again!
For reference: MKE7660 (“Solidφ20.0”)

CX-5（KF） | AutoExe マツダ車チューニング＆カスタマイズ

KF-06 My SUV is a sports car.KF-06 puts new driving wil

www.autoexe.co.jp

 

[CX_MCHNE]

Could you please verify the diameter of the OEM RSB?

looks like stock is 18

 

[prix57]

What is the part number for the megan racing rear camber kit?

I went on their site and it only has the rear camber kit for the first Gen cx-5 (12-16).

I am looking to lower my 21 GT-R turbo awd cx-5 and possibly add rear sway bar.

 

[prix57]

I saw the godspeed rear camber kit part number AK-233-B which is compatible with all models of the CX-5 2017-2021 as per godspeed.

Mazda CX-5 (KF) 2017-24 Adjustable Camber Rear Upper Arms With Spherical Bearings

Lowering a vehicle will often take it out of OE alignment specification. A large majority of OE suspension components do not allow any adjustment range. With out of spec alignment will result in poor handling and premature uneven tire wear. Designed fo

godspeedproject.com

 

[dps03]

looks like stock is 18View attachment 299663

Did you happen to measure the front one? Looking to just upgrade the bushings and can't find a kit so I'll probably buy a universal fit.

 

[dps03]

Did you happen to measure the front one? Looking to just upgrade the bushings and can't find a kit so I'll probably buy a universal fit.

I measured mine. It comes in at about 23.3mm. Assuming the .3 is the paint thickness, so a 23mm front sway bar on the 2022 CX-5 Turbo.

 

[Gray5ive]

This is how far down the studs I lowered mine.

I bailing wired the hub to keep it from flopping forward once the UCA is removed.

Remove the inboard UCA bolt. This can be tough to break, After removing a plastic guard piece (10mm) attached to the lower rod (lateral link?) I was able to break it with the help of a pvc cheater.

Eventually:

Remove the outboard UCA bolt, and the UCA.
Adjust your camber arm to the same length as the stock arm.

Corksport gives 58-77 ft-lb, and 64-778 ft-lb for the inboard and outboard camber arm bolts, respectively.

Now, lift the passenger side of the subframe back up enough to get the subframe nuts fully threaded.
Repeat on the driver side to lower the driver side subframe, remove the sway bar bracket and bushing, and swap in the camber arm for the upper control arm.

Once you have both sway brackets and bushings removed. you should be able to finagle the bar out through the back, over the subframe, through the lighted crevice in the picture below.

Lube up the driver side bushing on the new bar, and sneak it over the subframe, into place between the mounting studs on each side. At this point, with the passenger side subframe nuts on, I couldn't fit the passenger side bushing in with the bar.

Install the driver side sway bar bracket. I got the stainless brackets and poly bushings from JB, and swapped out the straight zerks with 1/4" 90 degree grease fittings. Torque the nuts...good and tight? I added more grease here to make sure they're packed. Side note: I read silicone grease is a little better, but I hit three parts stores and couldn't find any. So I'm using a lithium-based grease.

Next, lift back up the subframe driver side, and drop the passenger side back down, so you can install the passenger side sway bushing and bracket.

Then lift the subframe back up and torque all 4 bolts to 68-81 ft-lb.
Reconnect the end links to the sway bar at 34-40 ft-lb.
Clip back the wire harnesses, put the abs line back.
Reinstall the muffler (optional), replace wheels, lower back onto the ground, torque lugs, and go get an alignment.

Took me a day and a half, taking my time, including naps.

I think that's it. Let me know if I missed/messed anything and I'll correct it.

How big is the new rear sway bar?

 

[dps03]

This is how far down the studs I lowered mine.

I bailing wired the hub to keep it from flopping forward once the UCA is removed.

Remove the inboard UCA bolt. This can be tough to break, After removing a plastic guard piece (10mm) attached to the lower rod (lateral link?) I was able to break it with the help of a pvc cheater.

Eventually:

Remove the outboard UCA bolt, and the UCA.
Adjust your camber arm to the same length as the stock arm.

Corksport gives 58-77 ft-lb, and 64-778 ft-lb for the inboard and outboard camber arm bolts, respectively.

Now, lift the passenger side of the subframe back up enough to get the subframe nuts fully threaded.
Repeat on the driver side to lower the driver side subframe, remove the sway bar bracket and bushing, and swap in the camber arm for the upper control arm.

Once you have both sway brackets and bushings removed. you should be able to finagle the bar out through the back, over the subframe, through the lighted crevice in the picture below.

Lube up the driver side bushing on the new bar, and sneak it over the subframe, into place between the mounting studs on each side. At this point, with the passenger side subframe nuts on, I couldn't fit the passenger side bushing in with the bar.

Install the driver side sway bar bracket. I got the stainless brackets and poly bushings from JB, and swapped out the straight zerks with 1/4" 90 degree grease fittings. Torque the nuts...good and tight? I added more grease here to make sure they're packed. Side note: I read silicone grease is a little better, but I hit three parts stores and couldn't find any. So I'm using a lithium-based grease.

Next, lift back up the subframe driver side, and drop the passenger side back down, so you can install the passenger side sway bushing and bracket.

Then lift the subframe back up and torque all 4 bolts to 68-81 ft-lb.
Reconnect the end links to the sway bar at 34-40 ft-lb.
Clip back the wire harnesses, put the abs line back.
Reinstall the muffler (optional), replace wheels, lower back onto the ground, torque lugs, and go get an alignment.

Took me a day and a half, taking my time, including naps.

I think that's it. Let me know if I missed/messed anything and I'll correct it.

I just followed your procedure to swap out the rear upper control arm with an adjustable one (Godspeed Project variety).

First off, thank you very much for doing this. It certainly made the swap go easier!

A couple things I'd add are...

1) That's a 17mm, not a 19mm on the subframe nuts.
2) That top nut on the control arms is a bear...definitely want a breaker and/or cheater with a small head to get that top bolt off. Also strongly suggest a stubby socket
3) Just doing an upper arm swap only takes about 4 hours
4) Get an impact wrench (I love my Metabo mid-torque FWIW).

 

[dps03]

How big is the new rear sway bar?

Pretty sure they are 18mm.

 

[teddymac]

Hard Race stuff:

22mm Rear Sway bar (awd): REAR SWAY BAR - 7028 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

22mm Rear Sway bar (2wd): REAR SWAY BAR - 8999 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

25.4mm Front Sway Bar: FRONT SWAY BAR - 7691 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

Control Arms: REAR CAMBER KIT - 7752 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

 

[Gray5ive]

Hard Race stuff:

22mm Rear Sway bar (awd): REAR SWAY BAR - 7028 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

22mm Rear Sway bar (2wd): REAR SWAY BAR - 8999 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

25.4mm Front Sway Bar: FRONT SWAY BAR - 7691 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

Control Arms: REAR CAMBER KIT - 7752 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

Now if they could just have rhe sway bars for sale instead of only be as "wish list"

 

[teddymac]

if you search the part numbers elsewhere, some of the sites say that they're in stock... I'd probably verify it though.

 

[teddymac]

Installed a hardrace rear sway bar and megan rear camber arms this weekend. Had trouble finding a good guide for it, so I'm writing up my experience.

I was thinking my AWD would complicate things, because:

1. Only hardrace sells (that I found [thanks, Chris]) a rear sway bar compatible with AWD, and they don't provide any installation instructions.
2. The service manuals I found say to replace the rear sway bar on AWD, the propeller shaft should be disconnected, which cascades into taking apart half the car.

The subframe absolutely does need to be lowered to replace either the rear sway bar or the rear upper control arms. So if you're (planning to be) lowered, and want have adjustable rear camber, do the rear camber arms while you're doing the rear sway bar. Thankfully, I didn't find it needed to be dropped enough to be a problem for any of the AWD system. The propeller shaft angled down just very slightly, maybe a couple degrees, nothing that seems like it'd be an issue for the CV joint, and with still plenty of clearance above the cross-plate bolted below the shaft. In general, following the Corksport install instructions for rear camber arms got the job done fine.

Procedure:

loosen lugs, lift and safely support, remove rear wheels

I removed this clip (10mm) and bailing wired the line (ABS sensor and parking brake?) out of the way

Loosen the 17mm outboard upper control arm nuts (if doing the camber arms).

I removed a couple wire harness clips to free up slack so the subframe can drop away from the body

Pop off the muffler (14mm)

Disconnect the end links from the sway bars (14mm + 5mm allen)

Now we lower the subframe, one side at a time. Use something to support the subframe near the middle. Make sure you have it well supported, you don't want the subframe to accidentally fall.

To drop the passenger side, I first loosened two (19mm?) subframe nuts on the driver side, taking the nuts down to the bottom of the threads. Then remove the two nuts from the passenger side.

Slowly lower your support to drop the subframe passenger side until the inboard control arm bolt is no longer pointing right into the body.

This also makes the forward sway bar bracket bolt accessible. Remove the passenger side sway bar bracket (14mm) and bushing.

How are the control arms holding up?

 

[TitaniumCX-5]

This is how far down the studs I lowered mine.

I bailing wired the hub to keep it from flopping forward once the UCA is removed.

Remove the inboard UCA bolt. This can be tough to break, After removing a plastic guard piece (10mm) attached to the lower rod (lateral link?) I was able to break it with the help of a pvc cheater.

Eventually:

Remove the outboard UCA bolt, and the UCA.
Adjust your camber arm to the same length as the stock arm.

Corksport gives 58-77 ft-lb, and 64-778 ft-lb for the inboard and outboard camber arm bolts, respectively.

Now, lift the passenger side of the subframe back up enough to get the subframe nuts fully threaded.
Repeat on the driver side to lower the driver side subframe, remove the sway bar bracket and bushing, and swap in the camber arm for the upper control arm.

Once you have both sway brackets and bushings removed. you should be able to finagle the bar out through the back, over the subframe, through the lighted crevice in the picture below.

Lube up the driver side bushing on the new bar, and sneak it over the subframe, into place between the mounting studs on each side. At this point, with the passenger side subframe nuts on, I couldn't fit the passenger side bushing in with the bar.

Install the driver side sway bar bracket. I got the stainless brackets and poly bushings from JB, and swapped out the straight zerks with 1/4" 90 degree grease fittings. Torque the nuts...good and tight? I added more grease here to make sure they're packed. Side note: I read silicone grease is a little better, but I hit three parts stores and couldn't find any. So I'm using a lithium-based grease.

Next, lift back up the subframe driver side, and drop the passenger side back down, so you can install the passenger side sway bushing and bracket.

Then lift the subframe back up and torque all 4 bolts to 68-81 ft-lb.
Reconnect the end links to the sway bar at 34-40 ft-lb.
Clip back the wire harnesses, put the abs line back.
Reinstall the muffler (optional), replace wheels, lower back onto the ground, torque lugs, and go get an alignment.

Took me a day and a half, taking my time, including naps.

I think that's it. Let me know if I missed/messed anything and I'll correct it.

Thanks for explaining this, I’ll be receiving my BC coilovers and Megan racing rear camber arms and toe arms today. I’ll install them when I get the chance. the explanation you’ve given gave me ideas and should be okay since I’ll be doing it alone. Hope everything turns out well. By the way, any difference and handling with the sway bar?