Cosmo in Canada

[thousandfaces]

...I'm confused.. Are you implying 20B swap in an FD will weigh additional 600lbs?

This is the stock to stock curb weight difference Approximately between a 20b JC Cosmo and a FD RX7. I understand that a 20B will not add 600lbs, but it does add some weight and makes this curb weight difference less.

You have certainly given me some thoughts about my project. Thanks for a different perspective on things.

I am still looking at getting the engine built this winter. Should be a blast to drive with just mildly upped boost on the fresh engine.

Herblenny, do you know the specs on the wheels/tires you got to fit on your JC? I am planning on doing my own measurements, but any help is of course appreciated.

 

[Antoine]

When you say love, I'm assuming love for modifying?? JC is an iconic car for most rotorheads who knows about this car.. And a test to see who's a diehard car enthusiast. Far as I know in the states, only 3 are street legal and one that sits in a garage for years because it can't get a title. But mostly people don't mod because there aren't many aftermarket parts available.. Especially those of us don't live in Japan or Australia... Even than its hard to find parts... But here in the states, its combination of both.. Not able to find one with street legal title.

Also, another thing to be considered when modifying cars such as this.. Which is, since its so rare, is it to keep it original as possible or modify to loose its value as a collectors. That was something I had to consider (as I bought this as a collectors car) when I got the custom exhaust... which I'll still be keeping the original rusted exhaust just in case..

I'm trying to do both and I bought a front clip so I could keep one stock and mod the other.. Luckily I'm somewhat fortunate to be able to do this, but not many can.. which brings back to full circle of what you want to do with the car and how much money, time, and such.

Per what I stated above, reason why 7 owners drop in the 20B is because it could be driven on the road and in a platform where it would be more advantageous.. I think its similar to any rotary owners.. If they have the money, time, and passion, all rotary would be unique.. Also, if you look at the actual percentage of 7 owners with 3 rotors, they are still a rare sight. I say less than 1% of FD owners has a 20B in it. So, its not like everyone is doing this swap...

I don't disagree and when I say "love"...I mean appreciation in any form for the EC...Appreciation and awareness...Simply put...It would be nice if more people knew about the EC and cared for one...Unfortunately, few were made and even fewer were eventually exported to Rotary Fans overseas.

I'm a big fan of FDs and I can totally understand why someone would stuff a 20B in an FD but as an EC enthusiast...I would like to see more EC owners come out of the wood work and showcase their Cosmo...Encouraging more interest in ECs and creating our own little Community will most certainly make it easier to maintain our Cosmos and obtain parts...Whether your maintaining a stock EC or thinking about upgrading...I hope to create an environment here that helps all types of EC owners and enthusiasts.

Slowly but surely...I think we're doing that already...

I am still looking at getting the engine built this winter. Should be a blast to drive with just mildly upped boost on the fresh engine.

Herblenny, do you know the specs on the wheels/tires you got to fit on your JC? I am planning on doing my own measurements, but any help is of course appreciated.

Nice...Are you planning a totally stock rebuild or on having some performance work done while the 20B is apart? Boost increase via a boost controller and or by going with something like a BNR Stage 3 setup?

As for wheels and tires...Mine were already on the Cosmo when I bought it...18" all-round and 255/35R18 on the rears...I have to double check the other specs.

I believe Phil (Herblenny) did test fit some different rim/tire combos and should be able to provide some insight on size limits...I think you're going to have some issues when you go beyond 9.5"~10" wide on the rears without some modification or widebody action.

I'm interested as well as to Phil's current rim/tire specs...

Ps...I dig your sig, thousandfaces...Nice stable of current and future Mazdas...(thumb)

 

[Herblenny]

Here are some wheel specs..

I'm currently running Forgeline ZX3 3 piece rims with titanium hardware 18x8 +30 front and 18x9 +42 R. Fits fine but I have slight rub now since lowered the car.

Here is a pic..

I've also put 18x9 front and 18x10.5 SSR comp (type-c) it fits but it looks weird.. I think it would look better if I could lower it. Tire is 295/30/18s for the back..

also the car came with 17x8.5 front and 17x9.5 rear.. I don't remember the offset.. I have to check.. But fronts were 235 and rear was 255.. I think??

Hope this helps. Good thing is that the rear could take 10.5 SSRs.. I think the Antoine post of some cosmo NA race car with SSRs probably had the 10.5s as thats the widest it goes. I have the same set with 275s on, but I like how the forgeline looks.

 

[Berty]

In regards to wheels, I have a pair of 10 inch SSR's on the back of mine atm. They have a 32 offset AND the car is also lowered on coilovers. I think that we rolled the guards out by 2cm in total. The car can still be lowered more and the wheels have room to tuck in under the body.

I have seen a Cosmo with 12 inch wide rear wheels (18 inch diameter). I will try and dig up the photo's.

Thousandfaces, If you are considering getting the engine rebuilt then go for a mild port. Also, get the shop to remove your exhaust sleeves. I have both of these mods done to my block and it is pretty good, without being a pig. Plus, if you are considering going a large single, this will help with boost response.

 

[thousandfaces]

Thanks for the info everyone! I have a starting place to look at sourcing some new rims and rubber.

Seeing your beautiful cars makes me want to get to work on mine!

 

[MazKid]

Part that I agree is that in Canada Cosmo's are pretty cheap. But then you have to think about what I said earlier... There aren't much of available aftermarket parts.. So, many parts needs to be fab'd.

Question...what do you consider "cheap"? I've been thinking of attempting to obtain a 20b Cosmo and drive it state-side, since I live in St. Louis, MO. I know it sounds like a farce...but I think it can be done. I know there's been a couple of them in the US as it is, not sure how they did it though, other than these people have money. lol

 

[Berty]

Thanks for the info everyone! I have a starting place to look at sourcing some new rims and rubber.

Seeing your beautiful cars makes me want to get to work on mine!

Oh, this tool is invaluable for rim selection

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

 

[Herblenny]

Thousandfaces, If you are considering getting the engine rebuilt then go for a mild port. Also, get the shop to remove your exhaust sleeves. I have both of these mods done to my block and it is pretty good, without being a pig. Plus, if you are considering going a large single, this will help with boost response.

When you say mild port, what are you referring to?

 

[Herblenny]

Question...what do you consider "cheap"? I've been thinking of attempting to obtain a 20b Cosmo and drive it state-side, since I live in St. Louis, MO. I know it sounds like a farce...but I think it can be done. I know there's been a couple of them in the US as it is, not sure how they did it though, other than these people have money. lol

Ive seen nice 20B Cosmo for 5-10K in Canada.. But getting the into the state or getting them titled is a completely different story. Also, its getting harder and harder to import them in to this country.. One of 2 in USA are clean clean title.. Mine (from NC) and one other from WA state (now also in alabama), which used to belong to Japanese diplomat or something.. one other in TX is streetable but not sure what kind of title.. I don't think its clean clean title. All I can say is, it would be near impossible for you to bring it to USA from Canada.. Also you will be taking a risk of loosing your ride in process... which means, you might be able to buy one, but you might not cross the border with it.

 

[Berty]

When you say mild port, what are you referring to?

Here is a link...

http://www.mazdarotary.net/porting.htm

 

[Herblenny]

Here is a link...

http://www.mazdarotary.net/porting.htm

LOL!

Have you seen the 20B ports yourself? They are far larger than the mild ports I've seen on 13b's.

If you want better spool of a single, you want to take out the exhaust sleeves of 20B housings. Mazda restrict the power of 3 rotor not thru intake but exhaust...

This motor I got built is done that way (see below)... Low mile "D" series engine with all new internal with slightly touched up intake ports and restrictive exhaust sleeves are removed and 13B-REW sleeves in placed with slight porting. Also, If you have "#", "A", or "B" series 20B, I would be worried about making ton of power. I have a "#" series 20B I'm building also but it will go in the Cosmo as a replacement.. Not planning to make ton of power. Currently I have "B" series 20B in the Cosmo. If you don't want to change out the sleeves (not many know how to), you could just get 13B-REW housings and use them.. I wanted to keep 20B logo on the housing and spent the extra labor.

You could see another 3 rotor on the engine stand.. Crank tested every motor before install

end play is near perfect. All new internal, D series housings except one (# series housing), D series Eshaft and rotors, balanced.

Exhaust ports..

Test fitting the manifold and the turbo.. Turbo is a Turbonetic T-76 Dual Ball bearing.. Should be good to about 800. Manifold is made with Inconel and wastegate is greddy race wastegate.

 

[thousandfaces]

Oh, this tool is invaluable for rim selection

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Thanks

BTW, what coilovers are you running on your Cosmo?

 

[Berty]

I have JIC Magic's in mine. If you are not used to track style coilovers then they probably aren't for you.

If you don't mind driving with a kidney belt on (joke) then they are perfect and the stiffest set of coil-overs you can buy for the JC Cosmo

In regards to the porting, I have seen the ports on the standard 20B Cosmo, mine have the narrow end extended further to increase the intake duration and subsequently they add a tiny bit more over lap to the equation.

 

[Austerror]

Another Cosmo owner! Wooo!

 

[thousandfaces]

I have JIC Magic's in mine. If you are not used to track style coilovers then they probably aren't for you.

If you don't mind driving with a kidney belt on (joke) then they are perfect and the stiffest set of coil-overs you can buy for the JC Cosmo

In regards to the porting, I have seen the ports on the standard 20B Cosmo, mine have the narrow end extended further to increase the intake duration and subsequently they add a tiny bit more over lap to the equation.

Stiff is good. I contacted JIC and they do not have anything available in their system for the JC.

You wouldn't happen to know what the part numer/model of your coilsover is would you?

 

[Berty]

Stiff is good. I contacted JIC and they do not have anything available in their system for the JC.

You wouldn't happen to know what the part number/model of your coilover is would you?

I have all of the Japanese documentation for them...

The model is...

Type SA-1
JCESE 16K/7K
JC-S000
131469 (This number was on the certificate of authenticity, but i don't know what it is?)

 

[thousandfaces]

I have all of the Japanese documentation for them...

The model is...

Type SA-1
JCESE 16K/7K
JC-S000
131469 (This number was on the certificate of authenticity, but i don't know what it is?)

Thanks!
I will email them the info and see what they say about availability.