Corksport Camber Arms Request Link

For the front SPC sells them. The problem is, that nobody makes one for the rear.

Thank tibimakai. Is there any point in just getting them from the front?... or is it weird to have a perfectly aligned front, and then -2.0 rear?
 
I don't understand, why they even make them for the front and not for the rear?
At my work place, we are using a company called ProtoLabs/First Cut who makes our (CNC) parts from cad drawings. They are fully automated and farelly cheap.
When I get to replace my springs, I will remove the arm and I will ask one of our engineers, to draw a cad drawing and he will get a quote from that company.
Some of the operations, most likely I will have to finish, to make it cheaper.
They will use 6061 Aluminum, no fancy design and I will ask the engineer, to make the threaded ends much sturdier then it has to be, for safety reasons.
This is my plan for now, it may change depends on the price course. There is another way of making the arms, by using the water jet machine, to cut out the arm.
 
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I don't understand, why they even make them for the front and not for the rear?
The ones you see listed for the front (from various manufacturers) are generic kits made in different sizes that work on other strut-type front suspensions including many Mazdas. Sized correctly, one of them will "probably" work on the CX-5, but no guarantees.
 
Checked out the SPC bolts. Says they are 16mm? is this correct? I've read over the cork sport instructions for installing the springs and there is no 16mm bolt
 
Checked out the SPC bolts. Says they are 16mm? is this correct? I've read over the cork sport instructions for installing the springs and there is no 16mm bolt
The SPC 16mm camber bolts replace one of the 2 bolts (I can't remember which one) in picture 2D on page 1 of 4 in Corksport's instructions. The 16mm size refers to the bolt shank, not the head or the accompanying nut which Corksport calls out as 21 and 24mm respectively.
 
The SPC 16mm camber bolts replace one of the 2 bolts (I can't remember which one) in picture 2D on page 1 of 4 in Corksport's instructions. The 16mm size refers to the bolt shank, not the head or the accompanying nut which Corksport calls out as 21 and 24mm respectively.

It really doesn't matter which strut hole the bolt goes into (Top or bottom). Since the shank is smaller than the bolt hole, this allows play and allows the wheel hub knuckle to move more angle in or out. Or up and down, depending how you look at it. This play and movement allows the camber to adjust. For more positive camber, angle the hub down, and tightened it with as much torque as you can with an air impact wrench. BTW, camber bolt kits are nothing more than expensive fancy bolts. The offset washers (eccentrics) at the ends really don't get involved much because factory struts don't have guide rails to support them. I have used regular, smaller grade 8 or up bolts, washers, and nuts with the same effects for about $2 (or free, as the shops I have worked in usually have these in their inventory).
 
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So could this be done in the rear too?

Unfortunately no. While the front is a McPherson strut setup, the rear suspension is and upper/lower control arm set up with a separate spring and shock. It is the coveted adjustable upper control arm that everyone seeks for camber adjustment.
 
Unfortunately no. While the front is a McPherson strut setup, the rear suspension is and upper/lower control arm set up with a separate spring and shock. It is the coveted adjustable upper control arm that everyone seeks for camber adjustment.

okay, kinda what i figured. That damn thing is like the holy grail of the cx-5
 
Camber arms, can't accept camber bolts?

Well tibimakai, you're onto good thinking because, while they can't accept "camber" bolts, they could have a smaller shanked bolt put into the holes, adjusted, and torqued with an air gun (similar to my DIY method on the strut bolts). There are a couple problems, however. (1) This method is not properly approved and doing this may not only void any warranties but with the arm being engineered into the suspension as a load bearing structure it possible could fail. At the very least, it may tear up the rubber bushings in the control arms itself. (2) The factory bolt is rather small, and putting a smaller bolt could lead to failure). (3) A smaller bolt will not yield enough camber adjustment to stop tire wear. (4) If one went this DIY method ignoring safety aspects, one would have to find a technician who will adjust the camber settings and align the vehicle. The bolts would be cumbersome to loosen and adjust with the tire on the vehicle while doing a 4 wheel alignment (I've always called it a 5 wheel alignment - 4 wheels plus the steering WHEEL :)). Putting a bolt on the inward side could damage the frame. Ok, that was more than a couple (lol2). So, in summary, it's a good theory, but I, as a former technician, cannot responsibly recommend doing.
5apededy.jpg
BTW, this is the arm, and bolt on the left, we are discussing. As you can see, the bolt is already rather small, encased in a steel sleeve, surrounded by a rubber bushing, and hard to reach with a wheel on it.
 
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It would be a good idea, if everybody would send Emails to SPC, K-Mac and Ingalls to request this kit.
I have just sent an Email to K-mac. To SPC I have sent a while back, but they said that they don't have anything right now for our cars.
I'm thinking, if more of us would send Emails, then who knows maybe they would consider making it.
 
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