Coolant recommendations?

[BeetleJuice]

Hi Guys-
Winter is coming soon in MN and i really want to do a flush of my coolant system before the cold settles in.
My questions are:
1) does the 2 require a specific kind of coolant? (I am asking becuase I had a GTI once and it had to take the exspensive pink OE VW coolant.)
2) has anyone attempted a flush yest? it should be relatively easy right?
3) is there any other preventative maintenance I should do before the cold comes in? (I already changed the oil, replaced air fliter. I still have yet to change the cabin filter.)

Also my car just clicked over 42K, I havent done any of the Mazda dealer services since the 24K service becuase I am a college student and I barely make enough to support myself, so paying $300 for a service ontop of a car payment and full Insurance is just not unfortunately going to happen


Thanks for the tips and advise!
Will.

 

[thuzil]

I really don't think 42K would require any kind of coolant flush. If you really want to do it get the full strength Mazda coolant and some distilled water.

 

[BeetleJuice]

the coolant is kind of a murky green color, is that nromal?
I was concerned about the looks of it prompting the coolant flush.
when I look at the resevoir the coolant line is just above "LOW", which makes me wonder if this is normal consuption for the 2?

 

[Spinitsidewayz]

The green should be normal. I was pretty surprised to see the scheduled interval for the coolant is 10 years, and every 5 years after that.
I would try to use the same FL22 that newer mazda's use. Seems to be good stuff.

This is a good article on the FL22 coolant. I probably wouldn't hesitate to use the Ford stuff either.
http://rallyways.com/specialty/best-miata-coolant/

 

[flatlander937]

The FL22 comes pre-diluted, so do NOT add water to it.

I'm pretty sure that is what my 2 has in it, my 09 Mazda3 had FL22 in it.


Yes it is dark to begin with so don't worry about that.


FWIW before doing a coolant drain/refill I always make a habit of partially removing the belt and check the water pump for any play. Because it sucks to change the coolant for ~$40 then have a WP fail or start leaking 5k miles later, requiring more coolant again.


If you really wanted you could use some generic "all makes all models" stuff, but I'm not a fan of that stuff. Different makes require different additives for reasons like the type of bearings in the WP, what the engine block is made of, whether the overflow vents to the atmosphere or not, and some other crap too I'm sure.

10yr is the specified interval, so IMO if you're going to use the wrong stuff then you're better off not doing it yet/waiting.