compression test

Emode

Member
Contributor
:
2k3bmMsp938
howdy all
did a compression test on my speed today, all cylinders were within 133-136psi
just checking around, sound about right ot everyone?
also installed those extended reach colder plugs after having normal colder ones for awhile, noticed a difference, much smoother idle and response
 
The extended reach is standard is it not???

Besides, if you were to get a longer plug, do you not think that it would take up more area inside the cylinder and therefore make more compression (Which is not a really good thing to do on a motor that is already 9:1??)
 
msp came stock with extended plugs, people didnt realize this until recently, i had switched out the original plugs early for colder copper ones that werent extended.
 
yeah at first i got one that said like 220, and all the others were way low
then i realized i forgot to bleed the pressure the first time(wedge)
 
Okay, I emphasized THINK mainly because i thought they sounded low, but I thought I just had a bad memory...

anyways, after searching:

Koolidino - So anyway, I did a compression test...Each cylinder read between 180 and 183 or so.
pdhaudio- dealer said normal compression was 175

Hmm....are you sure you did it right?
 
ENGINE COMPLETE

COMPRESSION INSPECTION [FS]



WARNING:
  • Hot engines and oil can cause severe burns. Be careful not to burn yourself during removal/installation of each component.
  1. Verify that the battery is fully charged.
    • Recharge it if necessary.
  2. Warm up the engine to the normal operating temperature.
  3. Stop the engine and allow it to cool off for about 10 min .
  4. Perform "Fuel Line Safety Procedures". Leave the fuel pump relay removed.
  5. Remove the ignition coils.
  6. Remove the spark plugs.
  7. Connect a compression gauge into the No.1 spark plug hole.
  8. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and crank the engine.
  9. Note the maximum gauge reading.
  10. Inspect each cylinder as above.
    • If the compression in one or more cylinders is low or the compression difference between cylinders exceeds the maximum, pour a small amount of clean engine oil into the cylinder and recheck the compression.
      • If the compression increases, the piston, the piston rings, or cylinder wall may be worn and overhaul is required.
      • If the compression stays low, a valve may be stuck or improperly seated and overhaul is required.
      • If the compression in adjacent cylinders stays low, the cylinder head gasket may be damaged or the cylinder head distorted and overhaul is required.
Compression



kPa {kgf/cm<SUP>2</SUP> , psi} [rpm]

<TABLE border=2><TBODY><TR><TD rowSpan=2> Item </TD><TD rowSpan=0.0> Engine type </TD></TR><TR><TD rowSpan=0.0> FS </TD></TR><TR><TD rowSpan=0.0> Standard </TD><TD rowSpan=0.0> 1,177 {12.0, 171} [300] </TD></TR><TR><TD rowSpan=0.0> Minimum </TD><TD rowSpan=0.0> 824 {8.4, 119} [300] </TD></TR><TR><TD rowSpan=0.0> Maximum difference between cylinders </TD><TD rowSpan=0.0> 196 {2.0, 28} </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
  1. Disconnect the compression gauge.
  2. Install the spark plugs.
    • Tightening torque
    • 1522 Nm {1.52.3 kgfm, 1116 ftlbf}
  3. Connect the ignition coil connector.
  4. Install the fuel pump relay.
yours seems alittle low, did you follow this procedure?
 
yeah i havent done one before, this was first time
forgot to depress gas pedal
at least this showed me that there was any big differences between cylinders
thanks for the help
 
Back