I finally bought a Cobb AP, I'm expecting it some time tomorrow and I was just wondering if anyone has any advice on what i should do to the car before i start flashing. I have a FMIC, Cobb SRI, Forge BPV, ill be getting a testpipe. Is there anyone who has about the same mods with AP? what map are you running? what kind of power gains do you guys see? I'm just curious to see what other people are getting from the AP.
Cobb AP ?'s
- Thread starter turbos3
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The AP I sent has the latest firmware so you're good there. When you load the software for the flash loader, update it. It needs the update to load maps to the unit. WHen you first plug it into your car, allow it to back up your old data. You will need to give it about 30 minutes to save and upload a new map.
The first thing they're going to tell you is to ditch the Forge and install the stock BPV. I used the Forge and didn't have any problems. After you load the map..go easy on the car for 100 or so miles.
The first thing they're going to tell you is to ditch the Forge and install the stock BPV. I used the Forge and didn't have any problems. After you load the map..go easy on the car for 100 or so miles.
very useful info. to update the software is that done off the cobbtuning site?
ive been reading up on this as well. still thinking about whicj ones to get, denso, hks, ngk?
Yeah. I believe there's an updater program on the CD. I found out the hard way after not being able to load maps to the unit. Once I updated it worked like a charm.
Not running my AP yet. Frankly I refuse to use it unless I get a custom tune. Too many people pop with it. Got my new DP coming within the next couple weeks and hopefully ill have my car dyno tuned early january.
Im using denso ITV22's. Seems like the most popular choice so I chose denso's instead of ngk's. Can't go wrong either way though.
Im using denso ITV22's. Seems like the most popular choice so I chose denso's instead of ngk's. Can't go wrong either way though.
stage 2 is more boost. dont know where you heard this.
you should run stage 1+ fmic 91/93 depending on fuel available.
since your in between maps you will probably need to do some tweaking with ATR. I do HIGHLY recommend a protune. or holding off on the test pipe until you have the cash to get one
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do you have a dh to monitor engine parameters. ots maps arent really a 1 size fits all. gotta make sure it works for you.
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- 2011 Mustang GT
I disagree on people popping because of the AP. People can swing it however they want, but it's not the AP that's the culprit all the time.
People typically go with the ITV22's because with the iridium plugs, you can't adjust the gap as much as you need to with the NGK's. The plugs from SU come 'pre-gapped' but it's best to check before installing with a feeler gauge to verify.
If you're done modding, get the e-tune or a custom tune locally. You'll find that most people with tunes have the best luck with the AP, and according to some, it's the safest thing to do.
You'll also want to load AP Updater and AP Manager to your PC. These will allow you to update the unit and load other maps than the pre-loaded ones to it. AccessTuner Race is the end-user custom tuning solution which allows you to add Launch Control and Flat Foot Shifting, but you need to provide the serial # and your info for them to e-mail you the install files.
do some logging and make sure everythings in line. if they are you should be ok. i still recommend a protune down the line.
Yes you can. I don't know why people typically go with Denso rather than NGK. For some of us who have run NGK's in many vehicles, both NA and forced induction over the years, we just get used to a particular brand, don't trust pre-gapping, and are used to making adjustments. I can say that irrespective of preference, the NGK Irridium IX's that I put in my car proved to be easily adjusted to .030 while still having the ground electrode properly centered over the tip.
Both Denso's and NGK's irridium plugs in proper heat range work very well, IMHO.
I do totally agree that you can't blame AP (or Standback) products themselves for blown engines. It's not the hardware or software, it's the knowledge and skill of the tuner that determines if a tune is both power enhancing and safe. But in the hands of someone just chasing hp/torque maximums for dyno sheet show and tells, or just trying to push the envelope on boost or leaned out AFR's, tunes can become engine grenades.
BTW: A good launch control would be a fabulous addition. But flat shifting is already there in the stock ECU's soft rev limiter. The first Car and Driver test on the MS3 even quoted a Mazda engineer recommending this for strip runs, saying go ahead, "it won't hurt." Here's an accelerometer run on my own car showing flat shifting rpm spikes going into 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. Disregard artifact at end. This happens on that device at the end of a run. Don't get a tune to acquire flat shifting. You already have it if you choose to do so. Not saying a lot of it is good for the life of the clutch, lol, but it's not a software concern.
Just one guy's opinion.
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