ThrillRide
Member
- :
- Truck
Someone was asking about clay in another thread and I thought this would be a good time to discuss clay. I get a lot of questions about clay. It is a very useful tool and a very dangerous one at the same time.
So here is a bit of info regarding clay:
First off the types of clay. Marketing plays a huge role in clay. But the fact is that all clay is pretty much the same. Clay Magic holds the original patent on clay. A lot of people started to knock it off. Clay Magic sued the pants off of everyone. The only real difference in clay is its grade. It ranges from fine to coarse ( or soft to firm).
In most cases fine clay is plenty strong enough. The coarser you get the more risk you run of damaging your paint.
Clay Magic can be bought at Autozone and similar stores. It is one of the cheaper products and its the original so it is my primary clay. It comes with its own lube too. Prices range from 10 to 20 bucks on clay. Don't be fooled by marketing and price. If the grade and weight is the same there is not one better piece of clay than another. They all came from the same recipe. But just about every detailing product line has a clay. Use what you want but the only thing to look at is the grade. Some argue over elasticity in clays but how stretchy a clay is doesn't really matter. If the clay picks up embedded contaminates it has done its job.
Using clay:
This is where people go wrong. I have seen people use clay on dry paint or with just water. Bad idea folks! Lube is very important. Clay is abrasive and will hurt your paint unless you lube it. Lube allows the clay to glide over the surface and pick up particles on top. You can use a quick detailer to lube, you can use your car wash soap and water. The choice is yours just make sure you have plenty of lube. Check the clay often to make sure it is not getting overloaded. Once it does you need to reform the clay to a clean surface. Clay can be rolled up and reformed several times, but once you can't get a smooth surface on the clay it is time to throw it out and get a new piece. Clay can be used on just about any surface. I use older pieces for wheels. You can use it on glass, metal and the hard plastic surfaces. Works great on wheels, windows, tail pipes, headlights etc...Not recommended for the grainy or rough plastic surfaces or rubber.
How often:
The need for clay is conditional. If you live in an area with a lot of fall out or park under a tree or just drive a lot you might need to clay more often. But claying just because you have it is not a good idea. You can damage your clear coat if done wrong or too often. A good way to know if you need to clay is: After you have washed the car take a clean plush MF towel and run it over the surface. The MF will grab if anything is left on. You might think you are clean and you might not be able to see anything but a good MF towel will let you know other wise. Another tip is to put your hand in a plastic bag and gently run your fingers over the surface. If you feel bumps or a grainy texture you probably need some clay. The paint should be smooth and contaminate free before waxing. Clay is the way.
Claying is not the end all to getting a perfect finish. Polishing may still be needed to reveal the true shine of your paint. Clay works great at getting stuff of you may not be able to other wise. It is very easy to use as long as you follow the directions.
Happy claying!
So here is a bit of info regarding clay:
First off the types of clay. Marketing plays a huge role in clay. But the fact is that all clay is pretty much the same. Clay Magic holds the original patent on clay. A lot of people started to knock it off. Clay Magic sued the pants off of everyone. The only real difference in clay is its grade. It ranges from fine to coarse ( or soft to firm).
In most cases fine clay is plenty strong enough. The coarser you get the more risk you run of damaging your paint.
Clay Magic can be bought at Autozone and similar stores. It is one of the cheaper products and its the original so it is my primary clay. It comes with its own lube too. Prices range from 10 to 20 bucks on clay. Don't be fooled by marketing and price. If the grade and weight is the same there is not one better piece of clay than another. They all came from the same recipe. But just about every detailing product line has a clay. Use what you want but the only thing to look at is the grade. Some argue over elasticity in clays but how stretchy a clay is doesn't really matter. If the clay picks up embedded contaminates it has done its job.
Using clay:
This is where people go wrong. I have seen people use clay on dry paint or with just water. Bad idea folks! Lube is very important. Clay is abrasive and will hurt your paint unless you lube it. Lube allows the clay to glide over the surface and pick up particles on top. You can use a quick detailer to lube, you can use your car wash soap and water. The choice is yours just make sure you have plenty of lube. Check the clay often to make sure it is not getting overloaded. Once it does you need to reform the clay to a clean surface. Clay can be rolled up and reformed several times, but once you can't get a smooth surface on the clay it is time to throw it out and get a new piece. Clay can be used on just about any surface. I use older pieces for wheels. You can use it on glass, metal and the hard plastic surfaces. Works great on wheels, windows, tail pipes, headlights etc...Not recommended for the grainy or rough plastic surfaces or rubber.
How often:
The need for clay is conditional. If you live in an area with a lot of fall out or park under a tree or just drive a lot you might need to clay more often. But claying just because you have it is not a good idea. You can damage your clear coat if done wrong or too often. A good way to know if you need to clay is: After you have washed the car take a clean plush MF towel and run it over the surface. The MF will grab if anything is left on. You might think you are clean and you might not be able to see anything but a good MF towel will let you know other wise. Another tip is to put your hand in a plastic bag and gently run your fingers over the surface. If you feel bumps or a grainy texture you probably need some clay. The paint should be smooth and contaminate free before waxing. Clay is the way.
Claying is not the end all to getting a perfect finish. Polishing may still be needed to reveal the true shine of your paint. Clay works great at getting stuff of you may not be able to other wise. It is very easy to use as long as you follow the directions.
Happy claying!
Last edited:
