Circuit's 03.5 Protege5

It's for the initial cranking. When you tear down an engine, all oil galleries and oil pump are empty of oil. For the priming, you gotta crank the engine with ignition coils and injectors unplugged to make sure to have oil everywhere in your engine. Then you replug everything, start your engine and check for leaks or unusual noises.

The good thing about jelly is it's gonna suck the oil from the pan as soon as you'll crank. And also the pump will not run dry for a second.

Thanks for answering for me! :)
 
Btw what your forgetting is that most filters nowadays have a one way valve taht stops drain back.
 
Got the motor mostly back together with the MBSP with -10 AN return for the DocB oil pump setup, the DocB pump, and a nice clean oil pan. Blue locktite on all bolts with black permatex on all surfaces. Just need to make sure the timing is good and I can get the motor all back together.

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Trying to hide as much stuff from the top of the intake manifold as possible. Painting all the brackets silver (this one's paint cracked when I bolted it down, so I need to re-do it).

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Got the power wire run through the interior to the back seat for the battery relocation. 0 GA power wire from KnuKonceptz with a fused distribution block just inside the firewall. This then splits off to the fuse box and the starter. The wire runs under the carpet through the center console and then to the passenger side of the rear seat. Battery will be hidden in the jack location.

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whats funny is that my main power wire/fuse block is in the same spot except i also have a piece of 4ga running to the Alt off of it, plus my battery is in the spot where the useless jack was.

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Let me know if you need any help fitting the battery there.
 
The reason I didn't hook up the alternator there is that it hooks up on the other side of the main fuse on the fuse box, and I didn't want to bypass that.

I would love any info/photos you have about the jack location, which battery, and how you got the tray mounted, as that is where I am planning on putting my battery.
 
What size of battery are you running back there?

the battery I'm using is the Deka ETX20L, which is the same battery Braille rebrands as the B2015, its a 15lb battery that is L6.88" x W3.44" x H6.13". 310 Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 Degree F, (10 Hr Rate-Ah) 17.5. I've never had issues with it in the last 3 years I've been running it, if I'm not going to be driving the car daily i do plug it into my trickle charger system so as to not drain the battery.( small battery problems)

My mount is pretty simple and Dranballspeed you might do better with the new billet Jayracing mount since the car is going to be tracked, or you could build something a bit more tied down.

I had a box bent up and welded that just fit the battery ( pushed down into the box it does not move, to remove i have to use the holes under the box to push up)

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The ground wire goes from the ground to a spot right on the fender that i drilled and passed a bolt through, that wire is not even 10" long and 0G wire. The power wire goes through the circuit breaker so i can cut the power easily in the winter for storage before it goes all the way to the front.

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Jayracing (coming soon)
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Thanks for the info and pics JT!

Picture-less update with some things recently ordered/in the mail:

Black nylon braided lines and black AN fittings for the power steering reservoir
Raybestos front control arms
Whiteline front control arm bushings
Replacement front spindles (will be replacing bearings and studs with new OEM)
RedlineGoods steering wheel wrap with matching shift boot

Still need:
New Axles
Transmission axle seals and TOB boot
Battery
Battery box
AN lines and fittings for DocB oil system
 
Got the delete panels for the wiper motor and AC lines installed today. They are cut from ABS plastic, sprayed with the same high temp silver and clear as the bay, and then sandwiched around the firewall with some spare CR3 Motorsports bolts and washers I had. Inside plates also have a layer of dynamat just to seal off the hole. AC plate also has studs for the power steering reservoir.

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PS reservoir mounted.

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You can see where I've relocated the charcoal canister lower, but I want to mount it even lower to the left of the frame rail. I need to cut the hard line going to it, but I need to know if I can just leave it without a bead?

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Just hand bent the line down at JT's (bikingpro5) suggestion LOL. Now I just need to relocate the bracket and its good to go.

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I just removed the charcoal canister altogether. The long hose that comes from the solenoid is just hooked up to that pipe on mine.
Been running like that for about six months with seemingly no effects.
 
I just removed the charcoal canister altogether. The long hose that comes from the solenoid is just hooked up to that pipe on mine.
Been running like that for about six months with seemingly no effects.

I need to pass SMOG though lol
 
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