Camber kits?

Dezoris

Member
I know I keep posting about suspension on this car, but I have so many questions.

Someone linked me before to a site for alignment specs on the MSP, I did not find them however. I want the ranges if anyone has them.

Also, besides Kmac is there any other company who makes camber kits for this car

I hate to see that Eibach is the only company to offer cam bolts like this
eibach_align_kit_md.jpg


Also what autox class is this car fall into, I would think STS?
 
I did not see the MSP or similar listed under the Ingalls chart, also I don't see any CG plates for the mazdaspeed.
 
Dezoris said:
I did not see the MSP or similar listed under the Ingalls chart, also I don't see any CG plates for the mazdaspeed.
the MSP should be the same as the reg. protege (02)
 
I was able to get- 2.2 deg neg up front , set the front toe to 0 degrees, rear toein 0.1 degrees. resulting rear camber was around -1.2 degrees.
The transformation in handling was dramatic. I run the car in SCCA events and reduced the push tremendously.
I imported a kit from Australia which is designed to replace the upper front strut bolt, but is a much better design than any others, much stronger, used for racing , unlike the cheaper bolts from other manufacturers.

Godspeed!
Dave
 
You can autox stock no problem, but if you are serious about it, and will do it often, you should customize your alignment dialing in more negative camber up front is a must. But you don't want to be spending a s*** load of money on it.

You will notice it right away when you get out there how much the front tires are rolling onto their shoulders under hard cornering, settingmore negative camber up front will like
Micaspeed!
"the improvement in handling was dramatic"

It should be your front tires stay on the contact patch and you have more bite as the car's weight rolls onto the outer portion of the tire.

I assume Micaspeed was talking about Kmac, since they are the only Aussie suspension company I know?
 
Hold on boys! If you want to run stock class in SCCA autox, then these camber bolts are NOT legal unless/until Mazda specs them in a TSB or the factory service manual. Yes, I know, this sucks, but that's what's legal in SCCA.

The best I've heard about without the bolts or camber plates, is what DistantTea got when he had his suspension aligned. All the front suspension bits were loosened and everything was "shaken down" to achieve max neg camber, then retightened. Best he got was about -1.1 deg. I think Scapamouche also had his suspension aligned for max caster and neg camber and it wasn't much more than this.

Also, remember that the top of the front struts can be rotated to help adjust caster and camber, as the strut tube is slightly off center (on purpose).

By the way, the MSP is a GREAT autox car! Runs in DS against the BMW 330 and the SRT4, which is going to be a LOT tougher next year with the Quaife LSD and even more power.
 
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So them MSP runs in D-stock?
Cool, so you can loosen the nuts on the top of the strut tower and move the shock in the mount in or out?
 
No, you must remove the 4 nuts that hold the top of the strut to the body, push the top of the strut down and rotate it to one of the other 3 positions where the studs line up with the holes, then bring it back up through the holes and put the nuts back on the studs. Since the strut body is slightly off center in the mounting donut, this tilts the top of the strut a little bit adding to camber and caster when you get the right position.
Or it may already be in the position with the greatest camber and caster, so this would reduce it. Look closely at the top of the strut and see if it is to the back of the vehicle and to the engine in its offset. This position gives the most caster and negative camber.
 
Ok, I'm a bit confused... I'm getting new front struts and camber bolts put on this week because my tire wear has been SOOOO bad (3rd set of tires in 25K miles).. Turns out the GC's were installed without a vital part and blew the front tokico blues. Luckily my sponsor is helping me out with this. New struts and camber bolts.

From what I've been told the camber bolts will help with the tire wear. Is this right? Or are they mainly installed so that you can adjust your camber? But isn't that what an alignment is for?


I guess I just don't know what they are lol
 
i beleive the bolts give you more change in degrees because the lower you lower your care the more the wheel tilts and without help of the bolt or plates you can only adjust it so much with stock.
 
They are smaller bolts with a cam on the center. They replace the upper bolt on the lower strut mount. Depending on which way you turn the bolt you can add -1.5 to +1.5 degrees in camber and that veries by application. Ground controls are very tricky and it is very easy to mess up a set of struts.
 
Ok ok I'm learning more now. Yeah the GC's are awesome. They sent me the wrong top hat so that and along with me leaving out a stock ring has = blown struts.

I'm optimistic that the camber bolts, repaired GC's along with a good alignment and running -1 camber will treat these new front struts better.
 
Make sure you have some travel left in the new struts so as not to have the problem again. What is your average drop with the Ground Controls? Average for a sedan with Sportline Eibach is 1.8 all the way around and they do well with blues. I wouldn't myself take it any further than that. Better luck to you this time I hope. :)
 

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