bwalt's MSP build log

[bwalt]

Only way would be if you're lucky enough to find one used.

Speed Circuit was going to make one but the project never materialized past a 3D printed prototype.

I 3D printed a thing

mazdas247.com

 

[malcdiesel]

Only way would be if you're lucky enough to find one used.

Speed Circuit was going to make one but the project never materialized past a 3D printed prototype.

I 3D printed a thing

mazdas247.com

there is one guy on this forum I’m trying to get in contact with that has a v3 but no response..

 

[bwalt]

Protege's getting a turbo upgrade!

Over the last couple years I collected parts, learned how to TIG weld and produced from scratch a twin scroll T4 turbo manifold to mate a Borg Warner EFR7163 to the FS. It's been a huge challenge but so far I'm happy with how things are coming together.

More to come...

 

[bwalt]

Finished the turbo last weekend. Lacking more progress pics but here it is all installed and running.

Have driven around some, tweaking the fuel map, making sure nothing is leaking or falling off. This thing spools up fast! I'm impressed there's virtually no loss in low end compared to the last turbo.

Wastegate took a bit of messing with to get right. After a few attempts got it set with a 12psi spring. You can really hear this thing means business when the boost comes on. I am happy!

Also re-did my fuel lines using PTFE hose this time. Turns out fuel vapor permeates the regular braided AN hose I had used before. Noticed fuel smell but no leaks, also the nylon braid would turn to dust if you brushed up against it. Bonus is the new lines require different hose ends and I was able to re-use the regular hose ends to make turbo water lines.

Plan is to wrap the manifold next and sort out my transmission.

 

[bwalt]

Making decent power so far 337whp/332wtq. This was a 3rd gear pull from 3500-6500rpm. 17psi peak boost tapering down to 13psi at redline. Need to fiddle with the boost controller or swap a stiffer wastegate spring in so it holds boost to redline.

 

[bwalt]

My clutch is slipping now.. what better time to get the transmission put together.

I had a long term plan to make an adapter plate for a Toyota e153 transmission to swap in but not wanting to deal with hassle got the better of me. I bought the Par 1-4 gearset instead. It's gonna be loud but I want to make power so whatever.

The gears came with needle bearings so I have to send out my pinion shafts for machining. I'll have 3.85 and 4.10 ratios to choose from.

Here it is, so pretty..

 

[323]

Someone's about to have fun

 

[TheMAN]

nice build... I know you have your reasons, but you don't absolutely need to run 0 degree overlap cam timing... a little bit of overlap won't hurt... the stock timing is very mild to begin with, and even a simple FS-ZE intake cam swap moves the powerband upwards and gives a (IMO) more driveable linear powerband... with both JDM cams swapped, you have enough overlap to get a more peaky powerband... moving the power upwards saves transmission destroying torque

I've built engines with just a stock FS-ZE intake cam swap, leaving the stock exhaust cam in place... with the much smaller turbos than yours, it helped move the power upwards where to help it gain power and balance out the power output throughout the powerband... mine has a completely stock turbo and both FS-ZE cams swapped (among many other upgrades, but still a very mild build), and I have a peaky but usable powerband that's unlike any protege out there

just looking at your dyno, it's a very nice flat powerband... not a lot of lag, not a lot of power surge, but it's pretty much flat... I think you stand to gain some power without really sacrificing the low end if you play with the valve timing and get a couple of degrees of overlap (stock is 4 degrees, JDM is 7)

but different opinions, different tune theories... some (maybe you) like to have gear destroying, wheel spinning low end torque to "get off the line" and letting the big turbo try to shove air past the flow restrictions from conservative valve timing at the upper RPM... some like me, like to use mechanical tuning to aid powerband tuning and to work past mechanical limitations... "overlap is bad for turbos" is a rough general rule of thumb by OG tuners out there, such as from corky bell... but you think about it more, you have to consider head flow, mean piston speeds/piston dwell time, etc... these factors can play a role in whether you want 0 overlap or some overlap

 

[jadycr]

Are you going to keep the coolant inlet line like that? I know it’s further from the exhaust, but it seems like it would be impossible to bleed and not ideal for flow. It also gives the exhaust more surface area to dissipate the heat into your coolant after the radiator cooled it. Wouldn’t it be better to use a heat shield and keep the hose as direct as possible like going down before the downpipe?

 

[bwalt]

@TheMAN - not sure where it says I'm stuck on running 0 overlap. My post about cam timing was referring to using a degree wheel and dial indicators to set cams in relation to the crank because of all the machine work done. Playing with adjustments and overlap just hasn't happened yet.

@jadycr - The lower rad hose will stay like that for now, it was the easiest way to make it work using what was available in my garage. Thermostat housing in the factory position points directly at the downpipe, no way to connect a hose. Routing it the other way like you're describing would require a custom water inlet and thermostat housing, I'm not interested in that. There was also no issue at all bleeding air. Believe it or not, the car actually runs cooler with this turbo set up.

 

[ProteJester]

I’m late to the party, but this build is amazing to see!

 

[TheMAN]

@TheMAN - not sure where it says I'm stuck on running 0 overlap. My post about cam timing was referring to using a degree wheel and dial indicators to set cams in relation to the crank because of all the machine work done. Playing with adjustments and overlap just hasn't happened yet.

@jadycr - The lower rad hose will stay like that for now, it was the easiest way to make it work using what was available in my garage. Thermostat housing in the factory position points directly at the downpipe, no way to connect a hose. Routing it the other way like you're describing would require a custom water inlet and thermostat housing, I'm not interested in that. There was also no issue at all bleeding air. Believe it or not, the car actually runs cooler with this turbo set up.

This was a couple of pages ago where you mentioned that you wanted to set the cams at 0 degrees. So I guess I read that wrong?

as for the car "running cooler", keep in mind that air pockets in the cooling system can cause false temperature readings

 

[bwalt]

@TheMAN - likely a mis-understanding about the cam timing. I know there will be a "sweet spot" for this engine.

I am fully aware of potential air pockets causing false sensor readings. The bends in the lower rad hose aren't pretty, but it works. Another indicator I'm running cooler and not too concerned is lower EGT's and less ignition retard.

 

[bwalt]

Dug out my new clutch kit that was preemptively bought a few years ago.. After reviewing the torque rating for this model, I'm not confident it will hold. This is the NA protege version of the Spec Stage 3+ rated for 429tq at the flywheel, same as what I'm running now. If you subtract 15% drivetrain losses that's around 364tq at the wheels.

I'm practically there...

Another option is the MSP version of the Stage 3+ which is rated for 475 flywheel tq or about 404 at the wheels. Any higher clamp load pressure plate would concern me with excessive load on the engines thrust bearings.

There's also a twin disc that will hold more torque than the engine is capable of making.

Not sure what I will go with yet. There may be a brand new clutch kit and Fidanza flywheel going up for sale soon.

 

[bwalt]

Manifold is wrapped. Turbo efficiency is up, under-hood temps are down.

Also starting to remove the lineup of gauges across my dash in favour of a haltech can gauge. The individual gauge sensors will then be wired to the ecu for data logging and engine protection.

 

[jadycr]

@jadycr - The lower rad hose will stay like that for now, it was the easiest way to make it work using what was available in my garage. Thermostat housing in the factory position points directly at the downpipe, no way to connect a hose. Routing it the other way like you're describing would require a custom water inlet and thermostat housing, I'm not interested in that. There was also no issue at all bleeding air.

Did you vacuum bleed it? I have a very similar issue but my downpipe is in a slightly different spot so it almost touches it and I think it’s heating the coolant before it goes into the engine. I didn’t flip the inlet around because I thought I’d have bleeding issues. I’m surprised it works well, ill have to try it and see if the temps drop from not being so close to the radiant heat of the downpipe.

 

[bwalt]

I just did a couple warm up/cool down cycles and the air seemed to burp out as it normally would. Topped off the radiator afterwards. At some point I will probably put a heat sleeve over the lower hose. Exhaust wrap on the downpipe already does a fantastic job, one more layer cant hurt.

 

[jadycr]

I’ll try it out tonight and see if it helps. I’m definitely gonna wrap mine.