Yeah I'm up at school right now (only 3 more weeks to go!) so I don't drive as much as I usually do. I first noticed it after I drove to and from Cincinnati from Blacksburg. I checked the level before we left and it was full and then when I checked it again the day after we got back the dipstick was bone dry. Two days after that is when I started to see the smoke. I really need to do a compression and/or leakdown test but I just don't have the time right now.
Burning/Losing Oil
- Thread starter jonlong
- Start date
Damn dudes, I never lose any oil. I drive it like it's stolen most of the time. I change it every 3k - 5k miles. In my wife's car, a V6 Galant, when it gets to 3k - 4k miles it'll suddenly drop a quart. If I add oil, it'll drop it right out again, but that's all, it doesn't get any lower. I consider that my signal to get off my ass and change it.
flat_black
Member
I normally would change after a few races, or after 3k, whichever came first. But, as things went on, I was changing out the oil over 2.5k, due to it burning and contaminating oil faster. I'll let you all know how it goes when I get my next head back in. =)
Did you ever figure out what the issue was?
ghettoracingkid
Ask me about my Ipod
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- 2002 Miata LS
someone mentioned to me on another thread there oil pressure sensor wasnt leaking but it was the cuase of the problem.
Nope, not yet
The smoking has stopped altogether recently (the past two months or so) but I'm still getting blak spots all over the hatch. I did a compression test about 3 weeks ago and was around 200 psi in all cylinders (high, but acceptable). I also just pulled off the exhaust manifold last night and I didn't have any wet spots or oil dripping out (like I have seen with cars that have bad valve seals). The only thing I have noticed is that down in my IC pipes after my turbo I have some decent oil residue. I had always checked the top bend and it never showed signs of oil but down at the bottom if definitely does. I'm beginning to think it is my turbo now but unfortunately I'm going to have to reinstall it for the time being because I don't have another one lying around.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I put a PCV catch can on mine. It definitely isn't where all of it goes but does keep some out that woulda been burnt. I've gotta go with valve stem seals because there are no leaks anywhere.
Interesting, I will look into that. My oil consumption isn't significant right now. I think the hotter weather and higher RPM driving have a lot to do with it.
I noticed that consumption happens around 6000 rpm and higher. There really isn't any need to rev that high, but it does happen at times.
Does the compression test indicate the condition of the rings?Nope, not yet
Do you experience more accumulation at higher RPM, have you noticed?
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I'm sure it would increase with more rpm more often. I don't visit 6kland. I stay below 4ville as much as possible.
Yeah, 4500 rpm seems like all that's really needed for decent acceleration.
Hey Guys this is my first post! im From venezuela and i have a mazda protege 1998 and i have the same problema BUT THE SOLUTION IS valv seal and Piston Ring i used to burned all the 3 liters of oil in just one day and my rings where in a really bad condition also my seals! i can tell you for sure that i would solve your problem!=D i hope it help you 
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
If my rings/valve seals were that bad the car wouldn't even have compression enough to run, much less push 3 liters of oil out per day. Be a lot of smokin even if it could, but thanks & welcome aboard.......
somtimes man i couldnt even start the car because when i stop in a corner and i want to start again the car doesnt have compression so i have to accelerate and desaccelerate and then my car would run other way it wont because i lost the compression
closer to $50 at my dealer.
I burn oil in 2 days and also...
Hi Guys im new here i have a mazda protege 1998 thats Has DOHC 16 valve the same that came with mx-3 and i burn oil in 3 days also when i want to run when the cars is gettin to 4k rpm start to do explosion i dont know if that explosion are for the GAS also somtimes the cars seems to lose the power and dont go up to 3k rpm so im losing compression? thats why sometimes the car doesnt feel with the strenght? i really dont know im going to change the piston ring ,change the valve seals i let see if i keep with the problem, but what u can say ?
Hi Guys im new here i have a mazda protege 1998 thats Has DOHC 16 valve the same that came with mx-3 and i burn oil in 3 days
also when i want to run when the cars is gettin to 4k rpm start to do explosion i dont know if that explosion are for the GAS also somtimes the cars seems to lose the power and dont go up to 3k rpm so im losing compression? thats why sometimes the car doesnt feel with the strenght? i really dont know im going to change the piston ring ,change the valve seals i let see if i keep with the problem, but what u can say ?Thanks next weeks im going to repair the engine and ill change the timing belt i hope that be
I was burning oil also at startup for about 5-6 sec's then all gone.Under wot or any of the gear's I would have no smoke at all got tired of it and took the head off ordered valve seal gasket's from napa which are the felpro one's ( big mistake ) sent the head off to the local machine shop to get a full valve job done ( valve seal's,valve guide's etc ) and also get the head hot tanked.The car ran great for about two week's no smoke at all but then it start's to smoke on startup like before.Only thing I could think it could be is that the felpro seals I bought were all red and maybe the machine shop installed the intake side on the exhaust and the exhaust side on the intake that is a big no no.
So I ordered some OEM valve seal's threw the local mazda dealership to do the job myself once again.I bought a tool to do the valve work without taking off the head this time and will also be using the rope trick so my valve doesn't end up ontop of the piston.Total cost of the oem seal's for the pro5 was $148 and some change Green is exhaust and black would be the intake side.Wish me luck lol.
So I ordered some OEM valve seal's threw the local mazda dealership to do the job myself once again.I bought a tool to do the valve work without taking off the head this time and will also be using the rope trick so my valve doesn't end up ontop of the piston.Total cost of the oem seal's for the pro5 was $148 and some change Green is exhaust and black would be the intake side.Wish me luck lol.
