Broken Exhaust Stud.

LinuxRacr

Contributor
:
2001 Mazda MP3
Not the first time I've had to deal with this, but I don't over torque my studs at all. I guess the heat and new-found power got to it...(wink)

Any tips you may have on getting this sucker out, please let me know. Also links to the products you use would help as well.

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Yeah, it really does. I don't want to have to take the manifold off just to get out ONE measly stud, and run the risk of having more stud issues. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
You could try and drill the center of the stud and use an easy out ,but I think the easest way would be to remove the manifold and replace the stud ,thereis enough of the stud showing to grab it wit a pair of vice grips ,besides I notice and area on the maniflod that appears to have a bad weld . It is on the 2nd pic from the bottom
 
From my experiences with easy-outs, they suck. Last resort.

What ever method you do try for removing, vice grips or otherwise, get it GLOWING RED with a torch before trying to take it out.
 
macklum said:
You could try and drill the center of the stud and use an easy out ,but I think the easest way would be to remove the manifold and replace the stud ,thereis enough of the stud showing to grab it wit a pair of vice grips ,besides I notice and area on the maniflod that appears to have a bad weld . It is on the 2nd pic from the bottom

Well, there is no leak from there. Those marks you see are abrasions.
 
definately enough room for vice grips, just make sure u have a good tight grip on it. thats about how long mine was when i broke mine.
 
Dammit, so I will have to take the manifold off it looks like. I need to source some new studs. I was thinking about using the OEM Honda fasteners, as they are grade 9.9, and the same thead, and size as the mazda hardware. I will do more research today.
 
I think you might have to take the manifold out...if you can get the drill in that position then you can drill it with a reverse drill set and it will come out....but only if you can get the drill in there.

The manifold is double welded. In and out.
 
linux, once you get the bolt out (i vote the vice grip method) go to Autozone and buy Grade 10.9 M8x1.25 30mm bolts ... that's what i used last month to replace one that had fallen out. i used some red threadlock on it too.
 
Ok, it looks like I found my replacements : http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Cat...talog_0075.pdf

The Stainless Steel Accessory Studs 8M 1.25 Thread pitch. They should be really easy to install due to the hex keyed tip.
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I measured one of my old studs. It was 1 and 3/8 inch. 3/8 = 0.38 +1 = 1.38

1.3800 Inches = 35.0520 Millimetres

We need at least the 38mm. Buying them from Crossover Auto since they are local to me.
 
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LinuxRacr said:
Ok, it looks like I found my replacements : http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Cat...talog_0075.pdf

The Stainless Steel Accessory Studs 8M 1.25 Thread pitch. They should be really easy to install due to the hex keyed tip.
arpexhauststuds.jpg


I measured one of my old studs. It was 1 and 3/8 inch. 3/8 = 0.38 +1 = 1.38

1.3800 Inches = 35.0520 Millimetres

We need at least the 38mm. Buying them from Crossover Auto since they are local to me.

nice, didn't know he sold those.

yeah, just red threadlocker. it still prevents the bolts from seizing. i dunno if regular silver anti-seize can withstand the high temps from the block.
 
Interesting thread. I did the same thing today, but not as extreme. Good luck with your screw.
 
Yeap we use those at work too...

Copper anti-seize is good up to 1800 degrees. Silver is good for 1300 degrees.
 
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