do you still have the plastic nipple that came off? if you do, you can try and use a strong epoxy bond glue to put the broken piece together. just make sure you apply them around the piece and not covering the hole (specially the inside part) where the vacuum goes through. let it dry for at least 24 hours and it should be hard as a rock. it works for me.
Broke this piece... Let me know if I'll be ok!
- Thread starter UHATEIT
- Start date
FMOS Racing
Member
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- 2008 MS3, plus a pickup and a beater car
There is no appreciable vacuum and no boost at this side of the solenoid ('noid) since it is upstream of both the throttle blade and turbo so it's not an actuator supply.
It appears to me that it's a vent line for the wastegate control. The 'noid provides a deadhead on the boost reference to the wastegate until pressure reaches a certain level, at which point the 'noid opens and allows the wastegate boost reference to bleed back into the intake stream so that the spring can open the wastegate.
('noid closed, full boost pressure on the wastegate diaphragm assists the spring to keep the wastegate closed. When the 'noid opens, boost bleeds past the wastegate diaphragm and only the spring pressure remains. This allows the wastegate to open - this is a pretty common way to do electronic boost control)
I broke mine, too. To fix it, I used a drill bit that would fit through the nipple and set it in the body of the 'noid, placed the nipple in position over the bit and epoxied around the base. I put a little bit of oil on the base of the bit to prevent the epoxy from sticking to it. Just a little, though, because I didn't want oil to migrate into the joint. After the epoxy cured overnight, I removed the bit and installed a hose.
My bet is that if you blocked that end of the 'noid off, you'd get runaway boost. I guess I could trust the fuel cut and test that, but... well... nah.
It appears to me that it's a vent line for the wastegate control. The 'noid provides a deadhead on the boost reference to the wastegate until pressure reaches a certain level, at which point the 'noid opens and allows the wastegate boost reference to bleed back into the intake stream so that the spring can open the wastegate.
('noid closed, full boost pressure on the wastegate diaphragm assists the spring to keep the wastegate closed. When the 'noid opens, boost bleeds past the wastegate diaphragm and only the spring pressure remains. This allows the wastegate to open - this is a pretty common way to do electronic boost control)
I broke mine, too. To fix it, I used a drill bit that would fit through the nipple and set it in the body of the 'noid, placed the nipple in position over the bit and epoxied around the base. I put a little bit of oil on the base of the bit to prevent the epoxy from sticking to it. Just a little, though, because I didn't want oil to migrate into the joint. After the epoxy cured overnight, I removed the bit and installed a hose.
My bet is that if you blocked that end of the 'noid off, you'd get runaway boost. I guess I could trust the fuel cut and test that, but... well... nah.
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There is no appreciable vacuum and no boost at this side of the solenoid ('noid) since it is upstream of both the throttle blade and turbo so it's not an actuator supply.
It appears to me that it's a vent line for the wastegate control. The 'noid provides a deadhead on the boost reference to the wastegate until pressure reaches a certain level, at which point the 'noid opens and allows the wastegate boost reference to bleed back into the intake stream so that the spring can open the wastegate.
('noid closed, full boost pressure on the wastegate diaphragm assists the spring to keep the wastegate closed. When the 'noid opens, boost bleeds past the wastegate diaphragm and only the spring pressure remains. This allows the wastegate to open - this is a pretty common way to do electronic boost control)
I broke mine, too. To fix it, I used a drill bit that would fit through the nipple and set it in the body of the 'noid, placed the nipple in position over the bit and epoxied around the base. I put a little bit of oil on the base of the bit to prevent the epoxy from sticking to it. Just a little, though, because I didn't want oil to migrate into the joint. After the epoxy cured overnight, I removed the bit and installed a hose.
My bet is that if you blocked that off, you'd get runaway boost. I guess I could trust the fuel cut and test that, but... well... nah.
i'll probably take a picture of what it looks like now, basically i broke the upper corner off and put the tube coming out the side. As far as I can tell the pressure appears fine. I am glad its a bleeder line for excess to go to the intake, sort of like the bov recirculation tube, its just excess air. I am not good with apoxy or I would try to make what you mentioned. But I assumed the vac tubing coming off the end would work the same as if it was facing upwards right?
FMOS Racing
Member
- :
- 2008 MS3, plus a pickup and a beater car
I'd assume so. What you did was going to be my Plan B if I couldn't get the epoxy to hold.
john blutarski
Member
- :
- 2004 Subaru WRX STI
Use a flathead screwdriver to pry up on the hose from underneath where it sits on the solenoid nipple. Do this at the same time you are pulling it gently with your other hand. This works every time for me with stubborn vac lines.
