Broke this piece... Let me know if I'll be ok!

UHATEIT

Member
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2008 Mazdaspeed3 Sunlight Silver
I was installing my custom turbo inlet today and needed to put on some new vac line tubing (skinny tubing) that goes from this little plastic part to the nipple on the inlet. I pulled off the crimpers and then I wanted to pull this line off, and for ****'s sake this damn thing just didnt want to budge, so i yanked and it broke the plastic nipple it connects to. I haven't re-connected the vac line or anything and wanted to know:

What is the purpose of this particular line, will I be ok if I simply cap it, or is it necessary to reconnect the vac line.

here is a pic of this:
30877110117_large.jpg


it connects to the little vac part on the top of the inlet (the gold piece on the inlet):
30877110115_large.jpg




So let me know if I can simply cap that broken hole and cap the one on the inlet, or if I will have to connect vac line to it. If I need to connect it, I will simply break off the little corner of the plastic thing I broke and slip the vac line over it and put the crimper on it, so it won't leak.

What does this thing do exactly? looke lik eit takes a small portion of the air from the intake and pulls it into this sensor next to another vac line coming off what looks like a wastegate or selenoid and there is an electrical plus/possible sensor there??? not sure if thats something the car HAS to read and needs to be connect or it gets a bad reading? if anyone knows please help me out!!!
 
Just getting off the phone with you. So everyone knows what we thought -> Since it is for pressure and not actual air flow, slip vacuum tube over that corner after making the hole a bit bigger towards the side. I don't know if I'm making any sense right now, but we are all waiting to see what happens. Good luck!
 
If I can understand you, I think that hose goes to the wastegate control solenoid. At the intake end, it is simply a connection to filtered air. At the solenoid end, if you cap it, you will limit your boost to the waste gate spring, the ECU will not be able to give more boost.
 
may want to call Cobb, they seem to know everything about these cars. Plus they just developed their inlet. It worth a shot, good luck.
 
If I can understand you, I think that hose goes to the wastegate control solenoid. At the intake end, it is simply a connection to filtered air. At the solenoid end, if you cap it, you will limit your boost to the waste gate spring, the ECU will not be able to give more boost.

would that limit me??? I dont know how much the ecu gives for boost. I assume I will break/cut the hole bigger onto the actual end of the piece and then slide my vac line over that so instead of facing out like it would be if not broken it would go out the side. think that will work?
 
Damn man, that sucks. Hope ya fixed it. That hose was a PITA to get off. I would have been more pissed off about that then this bad football game tonight. Steelers suck
 
Yes I believe that little VAC hose goes to the wastegate so I would DEFINATELY find a way to reinstall the Vac hose. I think what you can probably do is use a hose splicer that's bigger and connect your vac to one end and shove the other in the broken end. since the splice units you can get 1 with 2 different size ends in brass.
 
no, that line goes to the intake (not the wastegate actuator), but it still needs a vacuum source to properly function.
 
no, that line goes to the intake (not the wastegate actuator), but it still needs a vacuum source to properly function.

ive got it connected and i drove it around and it's working fine. But as far as "function properly" what exactly does that part do? thats w3hat i am wanting to figure out.

I assumed it reads metered air from the intake and the sensor there tells the wastegate to either give more boost or not, or ewhen to blos off or not as in when the air stops sucking in it tells the wastegate what to do.


***as far as connecting, I took wire cutters and broke a piece off the corner/sidethat points towards the firewall. then i took a sharp file and files it down so there was an opening at the end/tip. I then just shoved the vac line over the end so it sticks out towards the firewall instead of up like it did when the piece wasn't proken. And used the stock crimp clamp on the end to hold it on.
 
There is a hose from the pressure side of the turbo going to the waste gate. Then the turbo pressure reaches about 7 pounds, the waste gate opens dumping exhaust and limiting boost. There is an ECU controlled solenoid valve connected to the same place; when it opens, it dumps a little of the pressure into that hose you broke, letting the waste gate close and keep building boost. The ECU then closes the valve when the boost gets up to the 15-17 psi range.
 
There is a hose from the pressure side of the turbo going to the waste gate. Then the turbo pressure reaches about 7 pounds, the waste gate opens dumping exhaust and limiting boost. There is an ECU controlled solenoid valve connected to the same place; when it opens, it dumps a little of the pressure into that hose you broke, letting the waste gate close and keep building boost. The ECU then closes the valve when the boost gets up to the 15-17 psi range.

i got the hose on there and broke off some of the end for it to get some air flow through it. I drove the car around, and it was around 16psi tho i didnt get to really get on it like when i get onto the freeway (which is when i test my psi to see if my bov holds) as its not good to nut it on short city streets. So if I'm at around 16psi then it appears my tube is working then right? as the ecu is giving me that extra boost that you mentioned would shut off at about 7psi if it werent working?
 
You see........that's what happens when you buy the tube before me, good thing I didn't get a chance to "bid" on it when the guy started selling the stuff. whew.
 
You see........that's what happens when you buy the tube before me, good thing I didn't get a chance to "bid" on it when the guy started selling the stuff. whew.

it had nothing to do with the part that i bought. ANYONE who replaces their turbo inlet will at some point have to remove the stock silinoid line and replace it with a longer one. I just got impatient with it since it was stuck on there and i broke the tab.

i was able to fix it by breaking off the corner and sticking the tube on the end sticking out towards the firewall instead of facing up and it works perfectly fine.
 
Ha! Did the same thing today on my speed6. Fixed it exactly like you did. No problems yet... That hose would NOT come off.
 
Ha! Did the same thing today on my speed6. Fixed it exactly like you did. No problems yet... That hose would NOT come off.

exactly dude, that ******* hose would not come off and its way in there so you have to get some serious strength to yank it off!

good to hear you fixed it just like i did.

i guarentee when those inlet's start out on the market and everyone scoops them up people will be breaking this cheaply made plastic vac piece almost everytime. They'll have to come to this thread to reference how to fix it when it breaks.
 
The simple way to remove a stuck hose is to cut it along the nipple, basically slicing it in half. But you will have to replace the hose with a new one.

Anyway, that part that you broke is the boost solenoid, it controls your turbo's boost pressure. Boost from the turbo travels into the wastegate, then into the solenoid. The solenoid then opens or closes to increase or decrease pressure in the wastegate. That hose that connects to the inlet is needed for a vacuum source and slight metered air.

I would recommend replacing the solenoid when you get a chance, especially if you decide to later on increase boost pressures using the factory solenoid. If you use a MBC, then you won't need the solenoid.
 
The simple way to remove a stuck hose is to cut it along the nipple, basically slicing it in half. But you will have to replace the hose with a new one.

Anyway, that part that you broke is the boost solenoid, it controls your turbo's boost pressure. Boost from the turbo travels into the wastegate, then into the solenoid. The solenoid then opens or closes to increase or decrease pressure in the wastegate. That hose that connects to the inlet is needed for a vacuum source and slight metered air.

I would recommend replacing the solenoid when you get a chance, especially if you decide to later on increase boost pressures using the factory solenoid. If you use a MBC, then you won't need the solenoid.

you're awesome! Currently for the last week it's been working fine since i cut the corner part off to make the tube stick outward. But If i find one of these things around somewhere I will try to buy a new one.

Seeing as how turbo inlets are flowing like water nowadays with the 2 GB/GI threads in the market place, these inlets will become very prevalent soon enough and almost everyone will have them. So I assume since this tube pretty much has to come off for all the installs, hopefully will see this thread and learn how to take it off or at least not to break it!

Your idea of slicing the end sounds really good, since it has to be replaced, cutting it off wouldnt be a bad idea. It's very tight in there and far down there, i could barely work the wire cutters to break the end piece off, i had to go in from the opposite side of the car and use a flashlight next to the battery to barely see around the back of the manifold cover and get it done while daerk and cold outside. I assume if i had tried your method and maybe used a razorblade to the tube up the side that would work wonders! Wish i had tried that before!
 

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