broke a nipple at the boost solenoid, need help

7 speed

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2007 mazda cx7 awd touring
like the title says. installed the corksport SRI and TIP on my CX-7 and broke off the plastic boost solenoid nipple.

i've reached out to the cx-7 community with no luck so far. since the engines are similar i'm asking the mazdaspeed peeps. (please don't delete, i need help).

the hole at the boost solenoid is plugged and the nipple at the TIP is not, i took the hose off. the cel went off but i'm well aware the problem isn't solved.

my question is what exactly happens when there's a vacuum leak at the boost solenoid? do i run lean now? am i only running on the wadtegate now? could it cause some damage driving around?

any info would help, thanks.
 
like the title says. installed the corksport SRI and TIP on my CX-7 and broke off the plastic boost solenoid nipple.

i've reached out to the cx-7 community with no luck so far. since the engines are similar i'm asking the mazdaspeed peeps. (please don't delete, i need help).

the hole at the boost solenoid is plugged and the nipple at the TIP is not, i took the hose off. the cel went off but i'm well aware the problem isn't solved.

my question is what exactly happens when there's a vacuum leak at the boost solenoid? do i run lean now? am i only running on the wadtegate now? could it cause some damage driving around?

any info would help, thanks.
See if you can get a code read, so you will know what you are dealing with. Keep driving to a minimum,for now.
 
thanks man, that's the plan. is it possible to find the code eventhough the cel went off?
 
posting a pic of what broke would help a lot in trying to figure out how to fix it, i wouldnt drive it without fixing the problem
 
The code(DTC) is stored in the ECU and should be readable. Where did the nipple break from, the TIP or the WG?

the plastic nipple broke off of the boost solenoid. the one closest to the fire wall that leads to the TIP. the one next to the nipple that leads to the wg. i'll try and get a pic on my lunch break.
 
if you still have the broken piece, you might be able to superglue 'em together, otherwise you need to replace the solenoid. just be careful not to fill the inside with glue, otherwise you attach 'em but the air will be blocked.

part # is (boost solenoid) - L3K918741...this is for the speed3. they go for $50 - $60 @ a dealership. just for your info.

its part of how the stock boost control system senses boost pressure. If you don't have it connected, its probably not going to hit the stock boost range target.
 
if you still have the broken piece, you might be able to superglue 'em together, otherwise you need to replace the solenoid. just be careful not to fill the inside with glue, otherwise you attach 'em but the air will be blocked.

part # is (boost solenoid) - L3K918741...this is for the speed3. they go for $50 - $60 @ a dealership. just for your info.

its part of how the stock boost control system senses boost pressure. If you don't have it connected, its probably not going to hit the stock boost range target.

great, thanks for the help man. i tried supergluing it back on but dropped in down the engine bay. so i have no idea where the nipple is now. i was able to cut one off the stock turbo inlet pipe so i'm going to try and glue that one on.

does the boost solenoid come out easily? it looks like a wire harness or two and a 10mm bolt. it doesn't need any sort of calibration or setting does it?
 
np.

yeah...you'd be lucky if it's still under the undercarriage tray. don't try to put (superglue) a different nipple on there. it may not fit correctly.

as far as removing the boost solenoid...i have no idea. i never took mine off. i just carefully attached (superglued) the nipple back to where it broke-off and up to this day...it's still attached together.

i don't think it will be that hard to take 'em off. might be a problem if you have big hands but, i would suggest removing the batt, batt tray, and the ecu for more access.

no calibration or setting needed if you're gonna replace it.

gl dude
 
the plastic nipple broke off of the boost solenoid. the one closest to the fire wall that leads to the TIP. the one next to the nipple that leads to the wg. i'll try and get a pic on my lunch break.

youll have to replace the boost solenoid, without it connected you are running off wastegate spring pressure which i believe is like 10lbs
 
I broke the nipple on my TIP, and had it capped off, with the hose danglin'. Ran it for 20k like that with no boost problems. Used to hold 16+ before AP, and now holding 18.5-19. Doesn't sound like it will be a long term problem. It's a small amount of air being pressured back into the intake system (post MAF), that, granted is not being accounted for with the ecu, but is not a big deal due to the small amount of air. It SHOULD'NT throw off your AFR's or boost targets, but I would log those two things if you can to make double sure. You will not be running off of spring pressure btw....
 
youll have to replace the boost solenoid, without it connected you are running off wastegate spring pressure which i believe is like 10lbs

i've noticed this the most. feels like the psi's are low. i figured i would be running just through the wastegate now.

i'm gonna give it a better look and trial fix tomorrow. if all else fails the part is only like $60.
 
I broke the nipple on my TIP, and had it capped off, with the hose danglin'. Ran it for 20k like that with no boost problems. Used to hold 16+ before AP, and now holding 18.5-19. Doesn't sound like it will be a long term problem. It's a small amount of air being pressured back into the intake system (post MAF), that, granted is not being accounted for with the ecu, but is not a big deal due to the small amount of air. It SHOULD'NT throw off your AFR's or boost targets, but I would log those two things if you can to make double sure. You will not be running off of spring pressure btw....

i have it plugged at the moment, and although there is no cel, i notice it driving differently. the intake is sucking and whistling, but the boost just isn't there.

the again, after installing the forge bpv, the entire powerband smoothed out, with the blue spring and no spacers. it was a little jerky with the stock bpv.
 
same thing happened to me, and mine intake is very noticeable also. but my boost is there for sure it hold really good with the tip short ram combo
 
i was able to cut the nipple off the stock TIP, smooth out both the nipple and boost solenoid, and super glue it back together. only difficult part was getting a wrench on the 10mm bolt that the holds on the boost solenoid. connected some new hose and everything seems to be back to normal.

it was definitely affecting boost.
 
i was able to cut the nipple off the stock TIP, smooth out both the nipple and boost solenoid, and super glue it back together. only difficult part was getting a wrench on the 10mm bolt that the holds on the boost solenoid. connected some new hose and everything seems to be back to normal.

it was definitely affecting boost.

Glad to see your superglue fix worked. If it does not hold, consider a possible solenoid replacement. Attached is a PDF of the Grimmspeed solenoid that is plug and play specific for our car. I can't vouch for it as I've not installed it. I did look closely at this when I was having some issues that I thought might be the solenoid. Turned out that the stock solenoid was fine. Note that the nipples on the Grimmspeed are metal. You will want to run it in stock configuration. The illustrations may be helpful, even if you keep the stock piece. Grimspeed's product is intended to be mounted in a different, more easy to access location (see instructions) and for you to leave the original part disconnected but still in its original position. My guess is that the Grimmspeed product is going to be a lot cheaper than dealer-stealer Mazda OEM prices.
 

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Glad to see your superglue fix worked. If it does not hold, consider a possible solenoid replacement. Attached is a PDF of the Grimmspeed solenoid that is plug and play specific for our car. I can't vouch for it as I've not installed it. I did look closely at this when I was having some issues that I thought might be the solenoid. Turned out that the stock solenoid was fine. Note that the nipples on the Grimmspeed are metal. You will want to run it in stock configuration. The illustrations may be helpful, even if you keep the stock piece. Grimspeed's product is intended to be mounted in a different, more easy to access location (see instructions) and for you to leave the original part disconnected but still in its original position. My guess is that the Grimmspeed product is going to be a lot cheaper than dealer-stealer Mazda OEM prices.

thanks for the info msms3. i'll definitely keep it in mind if something were to happen down the road. i'm a little afraid of the tuning it requires, seeing that i'm only running bolt ons at the moment. (intake, exhaust, boost tubed, bpv, tip). but it also wouldn't hurt to have in case i upgrade down the road.
 
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