bov recirculation setup (no bov sound at all ?)

[callphy]

since i have no beading tool atm, i dont wanna cut the pipe and do MAF relocation for now.

and i hate to live where i am =,= cant find any automotive parts store carrying everything...

current engine bay with plumbing parts XD at least it runs

waiting for ebay orders to arrive in a week and half

 

[KrayzieFox]

So you want sound? You won't really get much with a recirculated setup, especially a dual one like you're running.

I personally run a GReddy Type S recirculated off just the cold pipe and it works fantastic, no flutter and no stalling, but it is pretty quiet. I only hear it when I let off when at WOT, which is fine.. my first setup was a vented HKS like you have and it got a little annoying/ricey so I like the quieter setup.. but to each their own.

If you wanna hear it, venting is the way to do it. And while beading the cold pipe for the MAF would be optimal, it is by no means a requirement, the couplers WILL stay on if you have good clamps. I say you ditch that bad stock BPV, relocate the MAF, and vent that HKS you have on there.

 

[callphy]

the thing is i cant hear nothing from the bov (i feel like its dead or not doing anything)

with the current setup, can i vent the bov with stock bpv recirculated? i see bunch ppl doing it and said no issue found.


also have a question about bpv delete,

do i just find a silicone cap and clamp it down on the nipple, or do i need to find a welder to weld and sand it flat, or get a new U pipe? (its actually "2" shaped pipe)

 

[callphy]

i gotta run to the shop to pick up few "plumbing clamps" now

 

[Brian_K]

you can just cap the bpv nipple if you want to delete it. As long as it doesnt leak there shouldnt be any problems.

and yes you can vent the bov to atmosphere and leave the bpv hooked up if you're still getting compressor surge. if you do plan to run vta you should relocate your maf to the cold side and it should be between the throttle body and bov. also if you relocate the bov to the hot side it will be considerably louder when it vents

 

[callphy]

k i just rev the engine very very high on 1st to 2nd gear at a right turn with my windows down

and i heard something that might be coming from the bov.

but its super short like not even half second, and its fairly quiet

 

[callphy]

might gonna try a L pipe to recirculate the by pass only and vent the bov without doing the MAF relocation.

i guess it might get louder, but still short right? (have to delete the by pass valve to get a longer venting time on bov? XD)

 

[Brian_K]

might gonna try a L pipe to recirculate the by pass only and vent the bov without doing the MAF relocation.

i guess it might get louder, but still short right? (have to delete the by pass valve to get a longer venting time on bov? XD)

yes it should get louder if you only recirc the bpv. and removing the bpv completely will cause more air to be forced out of the bov so the sound will be louder. you might end up with compressor surge though, not sure if that will bother you or not lol

 

[KrayzieFox]

There's really no other way for me to say this.. but if the whoosh sound is what you're after, you will HAVE to vent the BOV.. there's no other way around it.

 

[callphy]

all i want is longer venting sound and able to hear it with windows up (dont have to be loud, just want to hear its alive in the enginebay LOL)



that o ring seal is really hard, its pushing the bov as high as the O ring groove

spend full hour just to push the O ring into the groove without popping back out.

i really dont wanna relocate the MAF and go over it again in the following few weeks =,= , might gonna wait a bit.

 

[KrayzieFox]

Try this.

Take off the BPV and recirculate JUST the BOV. You'll get way more air through it and it'll make more sound, and you won't have to relocate your MAF. Just cap the nipple on the hot pipe and get rid of that godawful mess of plumbing you have going on between the BPV/BOV and the intake, and go straight from the HKS to the intake.

I guarantee you'll hear more of a sound and you won't get any compressor surge since you have a 1" nipple on the intake. It would be best if you also had a 1" recirculation fitting on the HKS and go 1" all the way through, but if you have to use a reducer for the time being that'll be fine too.

 

[hornsfan10609]

That is a cluttered setup, you really only need the HKS bov the car will run fine with just the MAF relocated. You don't need to bead the pipes either I never did and I have only had one pipe pop off in two years spiking 11-12lbs.

 

[KrayzieFox]

Exactly, you need to toss out that OEM BPV and get rid of that mess of plumbing you have going on in there.

Then either recirculate just the BOV and leave the MAF where it is, or move the MAF and vent the BOV. Venting will give you more "whoosh", but recirculating is gonna be easier. I say you try recirculating for now and if that's not enough "whoosh" then you should relocate and vent the BOV.

That's really as simple as it gets.. those are your two options.

 

[callphy]

was thinking about the same thing to just recirculate the bov for now. （was looking for the 1" adapter , only available from BC shipped for 16.99+19.99+13%tax ）

thats what i hate about this place LOL cant find items locally.


i just placed the silicone nipple cap order this morning, should take 2-3 weeks to arrive. then i'll do the bypass delete

 

[callphy]

found the 1" adapter on Kijiji.ca last year for 19.99 pick up locally. but not anymore

 

[polaris]

I needed my hardpipes bead rolled for a MAF relocation on a budget, and this was my method...

Take your time and it'll come out looking almost professional (but its covered with couplers anyway). Just be sure to position the edge of the pipe all the way to the back of the crimper, or it'll lose its roundness once you get all the way around.