boost gauge

Quick side question here guys. I thought it was always a bad idea to use a mechanical gauge in the cabin, is that wrong? Perhaps it's only certain gauges (oil pressure, fuel pressure) that are dangerous to use mechanical in the cabin. Just thinking out loud.
 
Gandalf said:
Quick side question here guys. I thought it was always a bad idea to use a mechanical gauge in the cabin, is that wrong? Perhaps it's only certain gauges (oil pressure, fuel pressure) that are dangerous to use mechanical in the cabin. Just thinking out loud.
Click to expand...

yeah.. if the line blows off your boost gauge, you'll just have a small vacuum leak in the car.. not any hot oil or fuel spraying all over your face :)
 
so i was talking to a buddy of mine and he was saying something about adding a fuse to my fuse block under the dash to use with the boost gauge? anyone know what he was talking bout by any chance? he couldn't talk much to me and i hate electrical system work lol.
 
You can pick up a fuse splitter or an Add-A-Circuit from Autozone for about $7. You just put two fuses into it, one for the original circuit and one for the new one, and plug it into the original fuse socket.
 
so...you have 2 fuses sitting in one fuse holder...which obviously doesnt affect the original accessory the original fuse was for...im guessing there are wires coming off of this 'add a circuit' whre you tap in the power for the gauge then? jeez that seems too simple lol. never heard of those at all, like i said i hate electrical work...(peep)

correct me if im wrong with the statement i just made...
 
It basically creates two circuits from one. One fuse is for the original circuit and the other creates the new circuit. A wire comes out of the fuse splitter for you to connect your new electrical device, whatever it may be. They are extremely simple to use.

Hope that clears it up.
 
yes thank you very very much it does alot!!! but unfortunatley i still dont have seat heaters. is there any other fuse i can link too that will be on? im not too picky if it turns on twice because of cranking the engine. just as long as it is always on as long as key is on position.

also, what size amp fuses would be used then? leave the original im guessing but what about for the power i should say to the gauge?

thanks again for any help it is greatly appreciated you have no idea.
 
Actually, I don't know why I didn't notice this earlier, but the seat heater does actually turn off during cranking. I must of not been paying attention earlier.

You can also use the cigarette lighter fuse too. That works just as well. I plugged a 15 amp fuse back into the original circuit and used a 10 amp fuse for the new circuit to the gauge.
 
i heard the cig lighter isn't gonna always be on tho which is no good in daytime cuz the tint on the gauge face....correct me if its wrong tho.
 
From what I've heard it is. If worse comes to worse, you just switch where the fuse splitter is plugged in. It's not permanent.
 
hmmm true true ill have some experimenting, unless someone already knows where else i can tap too...so what size amp fuse should i use in the link then for the gauge?
 
I used 10 amps for the gauge and whatever the original fuse was for the original circuit. Just so you know, the OEM fuses don't fit into the fuse splitter, you have to buy some or use the ones that come with the splitter.
 
oh ok sounds good. thanks to the 0* weather here i dont think ill be doing this tonight. hopefully i can get it tackled by end of weekend...i hate working haha. ill post up what i fuse met my requirements when im done. and if anyone else, like i said before, already knows where to tap let me know. thanks again to everyone, especially you mrmister. great help for sure. (thumb)
 
alright so everythings perfect right now...except...i can't find a grommet on the firewall to pass the boost line thru. i've had my head under the dash for like 5 minutes with no luck....so, if anyone has a picture of where they passed theirs through or a detailed description that'd be awesome. trying to get this done asap! thanks
 
I cut a small hole in the grommet thats used for the main wiring harness right underneath the steering wheel.
 
Kansei said:
yeah.. if the line blows off your boost gauge, you'll just have a small vacuum leak in the car.. not any hot oil or fuel spraying all over your face :)
Click to expand...

Hmm, so now my question is why are people running mechanical gauges over electrical ones? Seems odd to add another point of failure into the equation and add a 4-6' hose running from you intake (or where ever). Wouldn't that length of hose effect boost? Or is it too minor? Sorry this is my first ever FI car and I'm learning as I go.
 
the hose won't affect anything at all. although it is better to tap into a different line than the vac line off the bov it is still ok to do so. mechanical gauges are cheaper than electrical ones and they are very very easy to install once you know where to tap everything in.
 
freekwonder said:
I cut a small hole in the grommet thats used for the main wiring harness right underneath the steering wheel.
Click to expand...

yeah that's where i've decided to start cutting. there's like 2 layers of somewhat thick rubber, what a pita...
 
ya it was a bit of a pain in the ass. but just watch out for the harness and you will be ok. Espcially when your a bigger guy trying to lay down in the drivers floor board.
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
    • Like
Audio upgrade questions (2024 CX-5 w/Bose)
Replies
5
Views
2K
acidbug
acidbug
C
Engine Light Cancelled By Fog Lights
Replies
0
Views
1K
Crookm01
C
T
Smoke only on downhills? 2008.5 Mazdaspeed3
Replies
3
Views
3K
concept
concept

Latest posts

Back