warning..... ahead is a wall of text. it is good info, but long....
ok i finally got my car back on the road ! the nitrous instal is still incomplete and i have a few bugs to work out....my boost is way high and wont come down !! i have my MBC all the way shut and i still get up to 20psi !! i must have a leak in the boost control hoses somewhere. i just havent checked it out yet...... anyways to the point.....
i installed a kenne bell boost a pump (BAP) to make sure i can get all the fuel i need up to the CDFP. my nitrous is a wet kit so it will be stealing some fuel from in front of the CDFP, thats the whole reason i did this. what i noticed is the way the ecu controls the in-tank fuel pump is rather odd. i remember hearing something in another thread but i thought i would share my findings.
after i hooked up the BAP i went straight to testing it with a volt meter. the install is stupid easy, and i have it set up to activate at 5psi. with the car running at idle (closed loop) the car only sends 10.5 volts to the fuel pump !! i thought that was odd. then when you get on it the voltage jumps to what appears to be full alternator voltage which was about 13.5 volts. those numbers are with the BAP installed but i left the pressure switch off to get "stock" readings. then i jumped the pressure switch to make the BAP active under all conditions to test the voltage adjuster knob. the first thing i noticed was it made the closed loop voltage jump to 12V, up from the original 10.5 . the thing was when i tried cranking the voltage up ...nothing happened. it stayed right at 12V. at first i though i must have wired it wrong or something, but i didnt.for some reason the closed loop voltage was not adjustable. i decided to take it for a ride with the voltage knob cranked all the way up and the boost pressure switch still jumped to make it active. with a buddy in the co-pilot seat holding the volt meter we did some test runs. it would hold that 12 volts solid all through closed loop. as soon as the car went to open loop.....thats when the BAP went into action. now instead of 13.5V i was seeing just under 17.5V !! i thought since the pump used a regulator in the tank it would run a fixed voltage, but it clearly does not. the fact that the BAP only kicks in under open loop is perfecrly fine, thats really the only time it will be needed...WOT while on the spray ! i ended up taking my jumper wire off of the pressure switch and hooking it up how it should be. the car now runs its stock 10.5V during closed loop, unless i go over 5psi...then it jumps to 12V. once i go open loop at over 5psi...its game on. i can make the pump flow as much as i want !! i have it set to hit a mere 14V for everyday use, and i will run it around 16V when the juice is on !! overall i think it is the perfect way to get the extra fuel out of the tank. i think this is an awesome solution for any big turbo/nitrous car.
i hope this info comes in handy for anyone considering this type mod.
ok i finally got my car back on the road ! the nitrous instal is still incomplete and i have a few bugs to work out....my boost is way high and wont come down !! i have my MBC all the way shut and i still get up to 20psi !! i must have a leak in the boost control hoses somewhere. i just havent checked it out yet...... anyways to the point.....
i installed a kenne bell boost a pump (BAP) to make sure i can get all the fuel i need up to the CDFP. my nitrous is a wet kit so it will be stealing some fuel from in front of the CDFP, thats the whole reason i did this. what i noticed is the way the ecu controls the in-tank fuel pump is rather odd. i remember hearing something in another thread but i thought i would share my findings.
after i hooked up the BAP i went straight to testing it with a volt meter. the install is stupid easy, and i have it set up to activate at 5psi. with the car running at idle (closed loop) the car only sends 10.5 volts to the fuel pump !! i thought that was odd. then when you get on it the voltage jumps to what appears to be full alternator voltage which was about 13.5 volts. those numbers are with the BAP installed but i left the pressure switch off to get "stock" readings. then i jumped the pressure switch to make the BAP active under all conditions to test the voltage adjuster knob. the first thing i noticed was it made the closed loop voltage jump to 12V, up from the original 10.5 . the thing was when i tried cranking the voltage up ...nothing happened. it stayed right at 12V. at first i though i must have wired it wrong or something, but i didnt.for some reason the closed loop voltage was not adjustable. i decided to take it for a ride with the voltage knob cranked all the way up and the boost pressure switch still jumped to make it active. with a buddy in the co-pilot seat holding the volt meter we did some test runs. it would hold that 12 volts solid all through closed loop. as soon as the car went to open loop.....thats when the BAP went into action. now instead of 13.5V i was seeing just under 17.5V !! i thought since the pump used a regulator in the tank it would run a fixed voltage, but it clearly does not. the fact that the BAP only kicks in under open loop is perfecrly fine, thats really the only time it will be needed...WOT while on the spray ! i ended up taking my jumper wire off of the pressure switch and hooking it up how it should be. the car now runs its stock 10.5V during closed loop, unless i go over 5psi...then it jumps to 12V. once i go open loop at over 5psi...its game on. i can make the pump flow as much as i want !! i have it set to hit a mere 14V for everyday use, and i will run it around 16V when the juice is on !! overall i think it is the perfect way to get the extra fuel out of the tank. i think this is an awesome solution for any big turbo/nitrous car.
i hope this info comes in handy for anyone considering this type mod.
