Blown Engine need help with next step

[JoeT]

Okay so my engine has been blown for a couple of months now and has just been sitting in my driveway and I plan on getting a forged engine from a website online. I have done numerous searches and only ended up with more questions as I learned more about what I am getting myself into. The current mods on the car are a GT28R, Weapon R Hard Pipe kit, AEM CAI, Tubular Turbo Manifold, and the welded LSD. Now once I am forged I know I am going to get the car tuned and turn up the boost to about 13psi.

That being said do I need a stand alone or can I just use a piggyback like the Split Second or the AEM (F/IC)? Should I be worried about the trans and it not being able to handle the additional power? Can I still use the stock exhaust set up? and would i need to do anything else I am not mentioning here?

 

[Perro del Sol]

Personally, you have more options with a stadalone as opposed to a piggy back system. I have the Haltech Platinum 1000 and the car runs extremely well. It all depends on your budget of course and what your ultimate goals are for the car. Hit up CR3 Motorsports, as he got the Haltech for me and he alos can get you the SSAFC as well.

 

[JoeT]

Honestly at this point Just want the car to run but with all those upgrades I am assuming and or hoping to get a little more than 250 or more I just don't want to stress out the rest of the car that isn't built after all this work I don't want to end up losing my trans. I have never pulled an engine before but I am good with my hands and learn things like this pretty quick, other than reading other peoples threads on pulling engines is there anywhere else I can read and learn how to pull the engine for this car?

 

[mazda3gboostin]

doing a motor isnt that hard and if u need help as long as u have the tools i know a couple speed owners that can help as well

 

[TURBOJ1]

That's a decent power goal,it's realistic with that turbo or there about you prolly have to run moreike 18ish psi As far as pulling the motor goes I'd say MAKE SURE AND LABEL AND TAKE MANY PICS OF HOW s*** GOES!!! Trust me hehehe....YouTube can also give visual aids( if you like me you read it but seeing it ties it all together sometimes) As far as a standalone, I'd say go for it. If this is your daily I'd say run it in parallel to your ecu as you may avoid some small headaches, do you have to take a smog test? Do you have the DocB oil set up? You NEED this.I'd beef up my transmission if I were you,there's a group buy going on this very minute for a transmission brace good for 250-300ish I think. It would make sense to do it now than have to (knock on wood) later down the line. You won't need anything more than a 2.5" exhaust for those power goals. If you do these things you should have a fun somewhat reliable engine and transmission

 

[Preferio]

I'm forged and running the mods listed in my signature, using the SSAFC and the OE GT25 is maxed out at ~15-16psi.

 

[TURBOJ1]

He's got the GT28.

 

[JoeT]

Yea I really want to do that upgraded close ratio gear set from MFactory but it is $800 so I would have to save my money to get it lol. I'm getting a forged short block from a member on this forum so once I get that I can slowly start the project. I just have to bring my heads to a machine shop to see if I can still use them I'm hoping I can or that will be a big set back in my budget. I should also change my timing belt and all that stuff including my water pump, but do I need to change the oil pump too? How much HP you think the stock tranny can take? I know its smart to do it now but I am without a car and really want to do things that are absolutely necessary and if that means a slower car so the tranny can hold up I might do that, I'd rather have a slow car than no car at this point......for now at least until i get a better job.

 

[TURBOJ1]

Yea I really want to do that upgraded close ratio gear set from MFactory but it is $800 so I would have to save my money to get it lol. I'm getting a forged short block from a member on this forum so once I get that I can slowly start the project. I just have to bring my heads to a machine shop to see if I can still use them I'm hoping I can or that will be a big set back in my budget. I should also change my timing belt and all that stuff including my water pump, but do I need to change the oil pump too? How much HP you think the stock tranny can take? I know its smart to do it now but I am without a car and really want to do things that are absolutely necessary and if that means a slower car so the tranny can hold up I might do that, I'd rather have a slow car than no car at this point......for now at least until i get a better job.

3 things that you MUST address on the Protg are:

1) Rods

2) Oiling system

3) Transmission

Any of these ( or all 3 ) will Fu*K your s*** up.....Address these and you're OK

The Protg tranny is a gamble with ANY HP level

 

[JoeT]

3 things that you MUST address on the Protg are:

1) Rods

2) Oiling system

3) Transmission

Any of these ( or all 3 ) will Fu*K your s*** up.....Address these and you're OK

The Protg tranny is a gamble with ANY HP level

Okay you talked me into saving up for those gears but I noticed they are only gears 3-5th are 1st and 2nd good? I'm not worried about the rods since the forged short block I'm getting will take care of that. But what do I have to change with the oiling system? Sorry for all the questions just trying to get everything right this time around.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Look into the Doc B oil pump setup, that's the best thing you can do

 

[TURBOJ1]

Okay you talked me into saving up for those gears but I noticed they are only gears 3-5th are 1st and 2nd good? I'm not worried about the rods since the forged short block I'm getting will take care of that. But what do I have to change with the oiling system? Sorry for all the questions just trying to get everything right this time around.

It's all good man....Don't ever be afraid to ask any question

 

[TURBOJ1]

Okay you talked me into saving up for those gears but I noticed they are only gears 3-5th are 1st and 2nd good? I'm not worried about the rods since the forged short block I'm getting will take care of that. But what do I have to change with the oiling system? Sorry for all the questions just trying to get everything right this time around.

Pacing yourself and getting all the Protg issues taken care of will allow you to sleep at nite lol

 

[JoeT]

Look into the Doc B oil pump setup, that's the best thing you can do

So I did some research on the DocB Oil System and I think it might be to complicated for me to do on my own especially if I need to wield anything since I don't own a wielder ("A final AN-10 line will be attached at one end to the bypass port on the Ex-PRV and its other end attached to the engine block girdle via a bung welded to the OE girdle.") this seems complicated is there an easier way of doing this or should I just have a shop do it?

 

[TURBOJ1]

So I did some research on the DocB Oil System and I think it might be to complicated for me to do on my own especially if I need to wield anything since I don't own a wielder ("A final AN-10 line will be attached at one end to the bypass port on the Ex-PRV and its other end attached to the engine block girdle via a bung welded to the OE girdle.") this seems complicated is there an easier way of doing this or should I just have a shop do it?

If I'm not mistaken you can tap the oil pan for the return....If you do want to use the OG girdle just take it to any shop that can weld aluminum it's not hard what so ever.