blow off valves

RyanJayG said:
not exactly the same a RX7 kits, but the same general idea. hardpipes, upgraded intercooler, BOV, etc.

the routing, and size reqirements are different car to car. there are several options for MSP's

for lowering springs you can't really go wrong with a name brand.. be very wary of anything "e-bay" brand.

stick with the big names and you'll be ok.

fist off with springs though, is how low do you want to go? many people are perfectly happy with the eibach prokit's moderate drop, but there are others that drop much more. then there are coilovers like what I have... its basically the only way to get as low as I am, becasue you'd kill your struts trying to go this low without adjustability.

i found a pair of JDM coilvoer springs on ebay that are compatible to the msp(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-0...994369800QQcategoryZ33582QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) It says it provides a drop of 1-4 inches..is this all i need to lower the car?
 
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If you already have a hks ssqv all u need to install it on the msp is a mounting pipe that fits the bov and recirculation fitting?
 
the pro kit springs slam the front but for the back was down far enough and the ride is even harder I wish I had coilovers so I can start my I wanna to look as good as ryanjg cars its simply awesome
 
thejoker0409 said:
the pro kit springs slam the front but for the back was down far enough and the ride is even harder I wish I had coilovers so I can start my I wanna to look as good as ryanjg cars its simply awesome

thanks! (thumb)
 
03mazdashawty said:
I was listening to some sound clips of the HKS SSQ BOV...that is exactly the sound i am looking for. What all do i need to purchase in order to apply that bov to my MSP?...do i need any kinda of special application, kit, etc.

to do it properly requires some investment. normally, a flange is welded to a pipe and the bov is attached to the flange. unfortunately, we have plastic piping. not exactly something you can weld. there are a couple of things you can do.

1) hardpipes. replace the stock piping with ones made of metal....either aluminum, aluminized steel, or stainless steel. there are a few kits out there. some are hardpipes only. some are a side mount intercooler upgrade kit. and some are front mount intercooler upgrades. most, if not all, can come with a bov flange already welded to it so all you need to do is attach the bov. these kits can get expensive though but are well worth the money.

2) you CAN make the ssqv work with the stock pipes. there's actually a how-to on this forum that details the install of a bov on the stock pipes.

or you can get a special flange for the ssqv and instead of having the flange directly attached to the piping, you run a hose to the bov instead - kinda like the stock setup.

i will warn you though....if you choose to go with a bov only, you stand the very good chance of stalling. this can be dangerous if you stall on the highway....cause you'll loose power steering and power brakes. the reason is the maf.

alright here's how your maf works together with the ecu to keep your engine running. air flows in through your intake and through the maf. the maf does exactly what its name implies, it measures the amount of air that passes through and sends this data to the ecu...."hey ecu, i've got this much air headed to the engine". the ecu then tells the fuel injectors, "inject this much fuel at this particular time to create this air/fuel ratio so i can keep things running smoothly".

well everything's fine and dandy until you take your foot off the accelerator and the bov opens. see, the bov is placed AFTER the maf, usually about 6-12 inches from the throttle body. well all that air that the maf already told the ecu was coming, goes out the bov instead when it opens. the air never makes it to the engine. so the ecu is expecting all this air and dumps in the proper fuel amount.......but wait, where's the air??

result? your cylinder chamber is swamped with huge amounts of fuel and no air (oxygen) to make it go boom. your engine's running way rich and this can cause you to stall out.

the fix? a couple ways:

reroute the air back into the intake. this effectively turns the bov into a bpv....just like the stock setup. by rerouting the released air back into the intake AFTER the maf, your whole intake system stays closed....that is, there are no openings to the atmosphere. all that air that the maf counted is still in the system so the ecu gets the air it was expecting. bingo, no more stalling. the ssqv has a recirculation fitting that you can buy for it. the downside? see the front of the bov and that triple fin insert? you have to take that out to put in the recirculation fitting and by doing so, you'll lose that whistle.

on some fmic kits, there is an option to run what we call a dual setup. you run a bpv AND a bov together. so you're sending some of the air back into the intake and releasing some of it into the atmosphere. it works out that the ecu gets enough air to keep the engine from stalling out so no worries on the stalling anymore.

the most expensive fix, but the "proper" way to fix it, is to get a fuel controller of some sort. many fuel controllers nowadays have a feature that allows it to pull fuel to account for the loss of air from the bov. in effect, it keeps the a/f ratios in check so that you don't end up running super rich. problem is, there aren't many products to choose from that work for our car that have this feature. the ones that can do this are pricey.

lot of things to deal with huh? if i were you, i'd save up until you can do it right in one shot.
 
03mazdashawty said:
I also was looking into lowering my car...what is a good brand of springs to use?

suspension stuff is not my forte. i have a lot to learn. but good brands? most people on the forums use either eibach, tein, or goldline. i'm not sure if tokico makes springs....i know they have struts.

if you want to be able to adjust your ride height, coilovers is the way to go. expensive but really cool. couple of the kits i've seen are tein, jic, k-sport, and d2. those are full coilover kits. ground controls aren't full coilovers but work as well. stay clear of skunk2 ones though.....i've heard bad things about theirs on our car.

be careful about buying cheap stuff and use your head. if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. good products cost money so don't try to cut corners. it usually doesn't cut it. see the quote in my sig? it goes the same for modding cars....if you don't have the money to do it right, you don't have the money to fix it either.

however, you might wanna jump on this: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115404
i'm getting these :)
 
Striker187 said:
to do it properly requires some investment. normally, a flange is welded to a pipe and the bov is attached to the flange. unfortunately, we have plastic piping. not exactly something you can weld. there are a couple of things you can do.

1) hardpipes. replace the stock piping with ones made of metal....either aluminum, aluminized steel, or stainless steel. there are a few kits out there. some are hardpipes only. some are a side mount intercooler upgrade kit. and some are front mount intercooler upgrades. most, if not all, can come with a bov flange already welded to it so all you need to do is attach the bov. these kits can get expensive though but are well worth the money.

2) you CAN make the ssqv work with the stock pipes. there's actually a how-to on this forum that details the install of a bov on the stock pipes.

or you can get a special flange for the ssqv and instead of having the flange directly attached to the piping, you run a hose to the bov instead - kinda like the stock setup.

i will warn you though....if you choose to go with a bov only, you stand the very good chance of stalling. this can be dangerous if you stall on the highway....cause you'll loose power steering and power brakes. the reason is the maf.

alright here's how your maf works together with the ecu to keep your engine running. air flows in through your intake and through the maf. the maf does exactly what its name implies, it measures the amount of air that passes through and sends this data to the ecu...."hey ecu, i've got this much air headed to the engine". the ecu then tells the fuel injectors, "inject this much fuel at this particular time to create this air/fuel ratio so i can keep things running smoothly".

well everything's fine and dandy until you take your foot off the accelerator and the bov opens. see, the bov is placed AFTER the maf, usually about 6-12 inches from the throttle body. well all that air that the maf already told the ecu was coming, goes out the bov instead when it opens. the air never makes it to the engine. so the ecu is expecting all this air and dumps in the proper fuel amount.......but wait, where's the air??

result? your cylinder chamber is swamped with huge amounts of fuel and no air (oxygen) to make it go boom. your engine's running way rich and this can cause you to stall out.

the fix? a couple ways:

reroute the air back into the intake. this effectively turns the bov into a bpv....just like the stock setup. by rerouting the released air back into the intake AFTER the maf, your whole intake system stays closed....that is, there are no openings to the atmosphere. all that air that the maf counted is still in the system so the ecu gets the air it was expecting. bingo, no more stalling. the ssqv has a recirculation fitting that you can buy for it. the downside? see the front of the bov and that triple fin insert? you have to take that out to put in the recirculation fitting and by doing so, you'll lose that whistle.

on some fmic kits, there is an option to run what we call a dual setup. you run a bpv AND a bov together. so you're sending some of the air back into the intake and releasing some of it into the atmosphere. it works out that the ecu gets enough air to keep the engine from stalling out so no worries on the stalling anymore.

the most expensive fix, but the "proper" way to fix it, is to get a fuel controller of some sort. many fuel controllers nowadays have a feature that allows it to pull fuel to account for the loss of air from the bov. in effect, it keeps the a/f ratios in check so that you don't end up running super rich. problem is, there aren't many products to choose from that work for our car that have this feature. the ones that can do this are pricey.

lot of things to deal with huh? if i were you, i'd save up until you can do it right in one shot.

Hey thanx striker i think i will jus save up to do it right like u said, it seems lilke the more conventional thing to do. But i do have a another question, the piping and recirculation wire, is this what you where talking about?(http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/ssqvmp.html). and just get the recirculation wiring with it?(http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/mxssqv1.html) Without that cheap bov of course. And if this is all i need i still keep in my mind the quote with your postings.
 
mp3, and MSP = sedan.. same thing... so if it fits any of these it fits the others.

don't know why they would say it doesn't fit mp3, though it will lower a msp and an MP3 less than it will lower a regular ES sedan because our cars are already lower by .75 inches than a regular sedan
 
RyanJayG said:
mp3, and MSP = sedan.. same thing... so if it fits any of these it fits the others.

don't know why they would say it doesn't fit mp3, though it will lower a msp and an MP3 less than it will lower a regular ES sedan because our cars are already lower by .75 inches than a regular sedan

thats the same thing i thought but wasnt sure...thanx
 
actually the piping i was talking about is something like this: http://www.**********.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=THMSP&Category_Code=MSP_ENG

see how it replaces all of your turbo piping? incidentally, they have a smic upgrade too that fits that kit.

i suppose you could use that universal section and just cut the stock piping somewhere where it's straight and put the bov on there....seems like it'd look kinda tacky though.

i dunno what recirculation fitting that is with that huge flare on the bov. this is what i was talking about: http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=798

also, if you wanted to attach it by way of a hose like the stock setup, here's the flange you would need: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FLA-005&Category_Code=FLA
 
Striker187 said:
actually the piping i was talking about is something like this: http://www.**********.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=THMSP&Category_Code=MSP_ENG

see how it replaces all of your turbo piping? incidentally, they have a smic upgrade too that fits that kit.

i suppose you could use that universal section and just cut the stock piping somewhere where it's straight and put the bov on there....seems like it'd look kinda tacky though.

i dunno what recirculation fitting that is with that huge flare on the bov. this is what i was talking about: http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=798

also, if you wanted to attach it by way of a hose like the stock setup, here's the flange you would need: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FLA-005&Category_Code=FLA

Thanks Striker...I think when the time is right i will just get the hardpipes with the bov and maybe, just maybe, get a smic along with it. That will be a project over a thousand so it might be a while. For now i am just gonna focus on putting on my intake and purchasing an exhaust i saw a nice one on corksport. It is the corksport power exhaust kit. (http://corksport.com/tab0.4/store/category/4qbt/99p-intake.html). How you like it?
 
i've seen the video clips and it gives a pretty good sound. but i have heard from several members that you have the bend the hangers a lot to make it fit right. but for the price, can't complain i guess.

u've seen the exhaust thread(s) right? if not, check 'em out :)
 
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