Maybe on your P5 but this doesn't apply to MS3s. MS3 factory brakes are simply top-notch. Spending money on your brakes is never a bad thing but not $1,600 unless you're pushing some insane HP. I'd go so far to say that the majority of your "better" braking could have easily been accomplished with just a simple pad swap and better brake fluid. The big money you spent on the BBK are in the monster rotors that really only come into play in a road course or track setting where brake fade is a reality. In real world driving conditions, 95% of drivers will never even experience brake fade.
Big brake kit
- Thread starter lutexas
- Start date
Maybe on your P5 but this doesn't apply to MS3s. MS3 factory brakes are simply top-notch. Spending money on your brakes is never a bad thing but not $1,600 unless you're pushing some insane HP. I'd go so far to say that the majority of your "better" braking could have easily been accomplished with just a simple pad swap and better brake fluid. The big money you spent on the BBK are in the monster rotors that really only come into play in a road course or track setting where brake fade is a reality. In real world driving conditions, 95% of drivers will never even experience brake fade.
It's been said before on numerous occasions, that was clearly a MECHANICAL failure and it could have happened just the same with a BBK, Brembo, etc. big brake kit.
As for all your options you listed, this last one is clearly all that's needed (minus the slotted/drilled rotors because drilled rotors are for LOOKS) but if you have an itch to burn some of your money then by all means, spring for the blingin' big brake kit.
mr_mazda329
Member
- :
- 97 Mazda Miata; 09 CWP Mazdaspeed 3
Cross drilled are for looks, but slotted actually do work by discharging the gas generated by the pads at high heat aiding in pad fade resistence. Also a slight improvement in wet weather breaking.
Nliiitend1
Member
Modern pads don't really "out-gas" the way the older ones did "back in the day". I subscribe to the wet-weather improvement theory for slotted rotors, but any pad that is fading due to "out-gassing" has no business on a street-driven car, let alone something used on a track...
For the best consistency and durability, it's hard to beat a solid blank.
For the best consistency and durability, it's hard to beat a solid blank.
SLIGHT improvement in wet weather braking sure but modern day brake pads don't outgas so to speak. Drilled and slotted rotor manufacturers are STILL using marketing jargon from the '60s to sell their s***...
Nliiitend1
Member
Hear hear, good man. (thumb)
I have been looking at the Big Brake Kits vs stock brakes and these are the differences I found:
BBK: 4 opposing piston caliper
stock: 1 sliding piston caliper
BBK: FRONT ONLY 13' rotor slotted or drilled or both.
Rotora is 2-piece Brembo is 1-piece disc
stock: front 12.6 x 1.0 in. vented disc
rear 11.0 x 0.4 in. solid disc
BBK: pads replaceble only with the same brand
(Rotora H2 ceramic pad or Brembo pad)
stock: pads replaceable with many brands (Hawk HPS an others).
the stock pad is the same as the Volvo S40
BBK: steel lines
stock: rubber (not steel)?
BBK: around $1600 Brembo (1-piece disc), $1800 Rotora (2-piece disc)
ONLY FRONT BRAKES. Add $400 for rotors+pads+lines for the rear brake.
stock: free
other option: brake lines+ pads+ slotted/drilled rotos = around $800
FRONT AND REAR BRAKES. keep the stock calipers
other (if I were rich) option: Ksport 6-piston BBK for $3100
what can probably happen if there is a failure on your brake/pads:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx-zmGm3Kj4
That guy is a member here. That wreck was caused by him not checking the pad life on his rear brake. It triggered his ABS and the rest was played out by the wall.
noobinacan
Member
I am running the Brembo BBK. and the biggest problem was wheel fitment.
you need to be running at least a 45 offset wheel (probably one without a lip).
and even then have to double/triple check caliper clerance.
I ended up running a .25mm spacer so my OZ would clear.
upsides:
- reduced un-sprung weight on the axle. Each caliper is half the weight of stock caliper. Stock calipers are heavy as hell.
- more stopping power only if you upgrade the tires.
- kit comes with steel braided lines
- less brake fade / better pedal feel for extended sessions
- changing pads takes 10 minutes. remove clip, slide out...slide in. DONE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOyvGpIOCNw
-decreased stopping distance once you upgrade the tires..into 245 or 255 range....you thought stock setup was good ?
your eyes are gonna pop-out!
downside:
- you will have to replace stock studs - depending on your spacer size.
HR spacers come with extended studs- fyi.
- wheel clearance issues + have to spend $60 on set of hub-centric/ correct bolt pattern spacers, or you will get shudder with non-hub centric spacers like I did.
Now there have been extended threads on several forums about how x-drilled rotors crack and proven with pics etc.
However, I have been talking to several folks at HAWK and Brembo and they all agree that a x-drilled rotor with a good cast and right hole size. don't just crack. unless its past its life...and past their life, all rotors crack. that said, x-drilled rotors may have a shorter life span vs plain/vented rotors.
and I can't wait for someone to introduce carbon rotors to track enthusiast market...further reduce un-sprung weight.
let me add something else here:
I was that guy who was always going "oMG....those wheels cost $1200 ???"
but I learned...that you're paying for reduced wheel weight and reduced unsprung weight and reduced rotation mass/weight.
If you are performance minded...save save save..and get a good wheel. Work, volk, Gram lights...whatever...get a light wheel.
Also, rotora kit requires less clerance...and is preferred by most.
you need to be running at least a 45 offset wheel (probably one without a lip).
and even then have to double/triple check caliper clerance.
I ended up running a .25mm spacer so my OZ would clear.
upsides:
- reduced un-sprung weight on the axle. Each caliper is half the weight of stock caliper. Stock calipers are heavy as hell.
- more stopping power only if you upgrade the tires.
- kit comes with steel braided lines
- less brake fade / better pedal feel for extended sessions
- changing pads takes 10 minutes. remove clip, slide out...slide in. DONE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOyvGpIOCNw
-decreased stopping distance once you upgrade the tires..into 245 or 255 range....you thought stock setup was good ?
your eyes are gonna pop-out!
downside:
- you will have to replace stock studs - depending on your spacer size.
HR spacers come with extended studs- fyi.
- wheel clearance issues + have to spend $60 on set of hub-centric/ correct bolt pattern spacers, or you will get shudder with non-hub centric spacers like I did.
Now there have been extended threads on several forums about how x-drilled rotors crack and proven with pics etc.
However, I have been talking to several folks at HAWK and Brembo and they all agree that a x-drilled rotor with a good cast and right hole size. don't just crack. unless its past its life...and past their life, all rotors crack. that said, x-drilled rotors may have a shorter life span vs plain/vented rotors.
and I can't wait for someone to introduce carbon rotors to track enthusiast market...further reduce un-sprung weight.
let me add something else here:
I was that guy who was always going "oMG....those wheels cost $1200 ???"
but I learned...that you're paying for reduced wheel weight and reduced unsprung weight and reduced rotation mass/weight.
If you are performance minded...save save save..and get a good wheel. Work, volk, Gram lights...whatever...get a light wheel.
Also, rotora kit requires less clerance...and is preferred by most.
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Nliiitend1
Member
...each to his own...
It comes down to the law of diminishing returns as far as I'm concerned...
It comes down to the law of diminishing returns as far as I'm concerned...
You's and I's speak the truth!
But most definitely, to each his own. I just feel money could be better spent elsewhere on this car.
