davidmspdriver
Member
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- mazda mazdaspeed protege 2003.5
hey guys so I just got an msp and I want to make some big upgrades for it starting from the cold air intake and exhaust, what can I do from there to make my car better in performance?
big boy upgrades / big gains upgrade
- Thread starter davidmspdriver
- Start date
Be ready for big research and big.spending..intake.and exhaust might get s couple hps but big power mods to these cars require forged bottom ends, stand alone ems and larger turbo systems. As mentioned, its like any car but our aftermarket is much much smaller, to the point of almost needing custom made stuff heh.
With that said there a number of guys running 300-350whp. You should look at build threads. And start saving heh.
With that said there a number of guys running 300-350whp. You should look at build threads. And start saving heh.
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- 2003.5 Titanium MSP
The single best power mod i did before upgrading the turbo/building a forged motor was definately swapping my stock exhaust manifold for a custom tubular equal length and ceramic coated heat wrapped(no more heat shield hiding the art work). Most of the available replacements either discont. Like MAM or still improving like the steedspeed with the choice really depending on if youre keeping the little t25 or upgrading to a 28 or 30/40. Any way you go removing that choke point makes the biggest difference not only in driveability through the power band but also alerts the buttdyno of the immediate freed up power. With no other mods my dyno was 18hp 24ft/lbs better then baseline stock airbox/stock everything. If you do the intake might aswell do the whole intake/upgrade to a better sidemount or front mount. Then invest on essentials like all the motor mounts/tranny mount/shifterbushings and the ******* clunk/rear swaybar bushing/fix.
once youve established the basic bolt ons figure out how balls deep you plan on going. Pretty safe to say you should assume youre gonna need to forge the motor and rebuild it properly to handle any boost increase, as many of us know rebuilding the block on your terms when planned is much cheaper and less stressful then on the zoom boom terms. Brian MP5ts and other build threads are great places to research what theyve tried and what hiccups are common and which demons lurk in the shadows.
once youve established the basic bolt ons figure out how balls deep you plan on going. Pretty safe to say you should assume youre gonna need to forge the motor and rebuild it properly to handle any boost increase, as many of us know rebuilding the block on your terms when planned is much cheaper and less stressful then on the zoom boom terms. Brian MP5ts and other build threads are great places to research what theyve tried and what hiccups are common and which demons lurk in the shadows.
What you can do it SAVE SAVE SAVE!!!.....you need to invest in this car not just slap stuff on. Right now the most important thing you can with you car is service it, IE suspension, bushings, motor mounts, check for leaks, check turbo for shaft play etc,etc.....once you for that figured out aim for a HP goal then start your build.
Because of the age of the car, and how fragile the engine/transmission are you are gonna take a gamble if you start throwing more power at it, you get my drift?...But hey it's just advice
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
I just have to keep posting this to every new MSP owners FB or M247 posts...
This isn't a Honda Civic, parts aren't easy to come by and they are 'expensive'...
If you want over 250hp, here's a good list
-Forged rods/piston combo, $1100
-ARP studs, $250
-Manifold and downpipe combo, $1100
-Gasket set, $110
-Bearings, $150
-Deep sump oil pan, $400
-Doc B setup, $??? (The one mod I need to add that I skipped on)
-Engine management, $200 (used AFC)- $2000 standalone
-Fuel Injectors, $100 (used 440's)
-FMIC, $250 (eBay)- $Good.luck
-Upgraded diff, $700
-Polyurethane engine mounts, $300
-300hp or more? Upgraded transmission internals, MFactory 3/4/5 $750
-Exhaust, $250 ("custom" made by an exhaust shop-$400+ for a used, large diameter bolt-on
And that's assuming you have the knowledge to do all of this yourself and if not, consider labor cost for things you can't do. And these are simply "power" mods that realistically won't get you more than 300whp with the OE GT25. Want to upgrade to a Garrett ball bearing GT28? That's another $1,200. And I consider a larger turbo a "big boy/big power" upgrade. So far you're at $3000-$4000 without it... For a car that I can find here and there with some of these mods already done to them with a blown FSDE for $2000 or less... Then even after spending that much money, you haven't touched anything else on the car- suspension, brakes, chassis...
There are too many people buying these cars, thinking it's a WRX or Evo, throwing 15psi at stock internals and upgraded SMIC pipes then selling the ******' thing for nothing or parting them out when you've got half your engine lying on the side of the road.
I've had the car for almost 5 years now. I knew what I was getting myself into when I got into the "MSP game" having come from a P5 and being a Mazda 'enthusiast' and I still have the car and hate it every ******* day. But I love it. If I didn't know what I know and didn't do what I do, there is no way I'd own one that's heavily modified. Every single time I make one thing "bulletproof" the next weakest component keeps breaking. I'm on my fifth engine, fourth transmission, countless rod bearings in the earlier engines, third GT25 and a **** ton of other, smaller items. If you want to mod this car, do so the RIGHT way. And unfortunately, the right way is the expensive way, there is no other choice.
This isn't a Honda Civic, parts aren't easy to come by and they are 'expensive'...
If you want over 250hp, here's a good list
-Forged rods/piston combo, $1100
-ARP studs, $250
-Manifold and downpipe combo, $1100
-Gasket set, $110
-Bearings, $150
-Deep sump oil pan, $400
-Doc B setup, $??? (The one mod I need to add that I skipped on)
-Engine management, $200 (used AFC)- $2000 standalone
-Fuel Injectors, $100 (used 440's)
-FMIC, $250 (eBay)- $Good.luck
-Upgraded diff, $700
-Polyurethane engine mounts, $300
-300hp or more? Upgraded transmission internals, MFactory 3/4/5 $750
-Exhaust, $250 ("custom" made by an exhaust shop-$400+ for a used, large diameter bolt-on
And that's assuming you have the knowledge to do all of this yourself and if not, consider labor cost for things you can't do. And these are simply "power" mods that realistically won't get you more than 300whp with the OE GT25. Want to upgrade to a Garrett ball bearing GT28? That's another $1,200. And I consider a larger turbo a "big boy/big power" upgrade. So far you're at $3000-$4000 without it... For a car that I can find here and there with some of these mods already done to them with a blown FSDE for $2000 or less... Then even after spending that much money, you haven't touched anything else on the car- suspension, brakes, chassis...
There are too many people buying these cars, thinking it's a WRX or Evo, throwing 15psi at stock internals and upgraded SMIC pipes then selling the ******' thing for nothing or parting them out when you've got half your engine lying on the side of the road.
I've had the car for almost 5 years now. I knew what I was getting myself into when I got into the "MSP game" having come from a P5 and being a Mazda 'enthusiast' and I still have the car and hate it every ******* day. But I love it. If I didn't know what I know and didn't do what I do, there is no way I'd own one that's heavily modified. Every single time I make one thing "bulletproof" the next weakest component keeps breaking. I'm on my fifth engine, fourth transmission, countless rod bearings in the earlier engines, third GT25 and a **** ton of other, smaller items. If you want to mod this car, do so the RIGHT way. And unfortunately, the right way is the expensive way, there is no other choice.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
Yes, EACH, but they only offer 3/4/5 as opposed to PAR for $1500 each.
I can pick up base model WRXs around here for $3-4k all day long. In fact one of my employees just bought a 2003 in good, stock condition for $3500. An Evo, though, goes for insane amounts of money that I'd never, ever, ever, ever spend.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
He bought it Friday night after work. $3500, 180k, 1-owner, valve cover leaking and is due for a timing belt, but he's one of my tech's so he can knock that out in a matter of a few hours and a couple of hundred in parts.
Bug eye's go for $3k-6k around here. Now, look at the MSP market. Now look at the cost of modifying. Now look at the horsepower gained dollar to dollar for mods.
Bug eye's go for $3k-6k around here. Now, look at the MSP market. Now look at the cost of modifying. Now look at the horsepower gained dollar to dollar for mods.
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yes but think about this Perferio anytime you make a trip over to deals gap or someplace. just makes it worth it a little. i hate mine a lot also. it rides like a goat wagon sometimes. but when i really start pushing it its so much fun. i guess breaking things is just part of it.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
It handles phenomenally well and that's why I buy the cars I do. I don't care about straight line speeds (obviously- RX-8 and an MSP- LOL), just screaming through the twisties. However, thanks to the FSDEs inherent oiling issues, I've spun 4 bearings up there. Haven't been up there since installed my AWR after my last rebuild of my forged engine which I killed up there.
Perro del Sol
Member
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- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
You definitely need the Doc B Oil Pump Upgrade and Relocation kit.......best moeny I spent, next to the Haltech for my MSP!
