Best way to disable electric door locks?

[pasadena_commut]

The P5 has 2 dead door lock actuators and one iffy one. I don't have time to fix them before the car goes off to live with my daughter, so I want to disable them. The goal: "old school" key only entry, with no evil spinning broken plastic noises and no doors in the wrong locked state when least expected.

In the manual it shows a 30A door lock fuse that powers the door lock control module, and that talks to the keyless control module which appears to be powered from both the Wiper and Room fuses. What should I unplug?

1. The 30A fuse.
2. The cable to the door lock control module
3. The cable from the keyless entry module
4. ?

I don't want to blow up either control module, or lead the keyless module to start honking the horn uncontrollably. (I have no idea if it even works, have never tried the remote.) At some point we might get around to fixing this, so it would be good to be able to plug it all back in and still have the electronics functioning.

Thanks.

 

[JiggaBro]

when my passenger side went out i hated the noise it was making... so all i did was pop off the door card and disconnect the cable running to the actuator.
i had it like that for a good 3 months before fixing it

 

[tweety2300]

Pull the door panel off and snip the wires going to the actuator or just fix it

 

[pasadena_commut]

Pull the door panel off and snip the wires going to the actuator or just fix it

Don't the doors have a vapor barrier held in place with that awful sticky black mastic? Heck of a lot less work to pull the fuse. Plus that way there is no chance of breaking those fragile plastic clips that Mazda likes to use.

 

[JiggaBro]

well, which one is the working one and which one is iffy?

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Pulling the power lock fuse seems like the easiest option. According to the wiring diagram that fuse is only used for the power lock mechanisms.

Don't the doors have a vapor barrier held in place with that awful sticky black mastic? Heck of a lot less work to pull the fuse. Plus that way there is no chance of breaking those fragile plastic clips that Mazda likes to use.

That sticky black stuff is acoustic sealant, you can get a tube for $5 at home depot if you decide to remove those plastic sheets.

 

[pasadena_commut]

Pulling the power lock fuse seems like the easiest option. According to the wiring diagram that fuse is only used for the power lock mechanisms.

Tried it. As far as I could tell nothing untoward happened - all the power locks stopped working and everything else was normal. I don't want to leave the slot open though, so need to find a blown fuse to insert in that position. (First time I have ever needed a source for an open fuse!)

 

[pasadena_commut]

so need to find a blown fuse to insert in that position.

Stuck a quick blow 10A fuse in there, figuring if it needed a 30A fuse the 10A would blow immediately. Pushed the lock switch a dozen times and the thing never blew. So I broke out the jumper cables and used those to hook (just) the 10A fuse up across the battery - very carefully, with the ground lead of the jumper cable just swiped across a body bolt to get 1 spark. Needless to say, that blew the fuse.

Problem "solved".

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Stuck a quick blow 10A fuse in there, figuring if it needed a 30A fuse the 10A would blow immediately. Pushed the lock switch a dozen times and the thing never blew. So I broke out the jumper cables and used those to hook (just) the 10A fuse up across the battery - very carefully, with the ground lead of the jumper cable just swiped across a body bolt to get 1 spark. Needless to say, that blew the fuse.

Problem "solved".

I was going to suggest you do exactly that, but I didn't because I didn't want to give you any dangerous ideas