Best strut/$$$ option for MSP
- Thread starter livelyjay
- Start date
I was out of town this weekend for the NYC auto show and work has been killing me with overtime. Both these things have prevented me from getting my other car maintenance done, which is necessary before I can do any work with the MSP. I might be able to get enough done this week that I can pull my struts this weekend and get official measurements.
Other car maintenance is almost complete. Got the timing belt and other belts, water pump, etc replaced. I just need to dial in the ignition timing before I feel comfortable getting the MSP up in the air to measure the struts. I might be able to get it done this week, since there's a two week gap between auto-x events.
I have a backup plan if this doesn't work out, but I want to ask everyone who still might be following along. If the Koni inserts don't work, I'll be looking at getting regular Protege Tokico Illuminas for the fronts and OEM Tokico HP for the rear. Would having adjustable in the front and static in the rear be a bad idea?
I agree with your statement, but if the Koni inserts don't work out, the only other options are non-adjustable OEM struts all around, Tokico Illuminas in the front with non-adjustable OEM struts in the rear, or a full Koni wet build by Tri-Point (no way in hell I am paying $2000 for something that's not a coilover).
So I got the car up in the air, pulled the rear brake components off, and tried to get the strut disconnected from the knuckle without success. I got the top bolt out without much trouble, but the bottom bolt just wouldn't come out. Is there secret to getting that thing out?
To pull the struts I don't think you need to pull the brakes... As for getting the bolt out, the problem is that it's supporting the weight of the knuckle. Try getting a jack under it slowly taking the weight off and the bolt should slide right out. Alternately if you have an impact gun and can get the bolt somewhat out, set the gun on reverse and use the open end of a wrench to help you work the bolt out. Not great for the bolt, but it'll get the job done.
Having the brakes off just helped me get access to the bolts. They are pretty rusted so I needed room for my breaker bar. Since they are loosened up now, I probably won't need to pull the brakes again (I put everything back together last night). I also could have hammered the bolt out, but since I don't have a replacement on hand I didn't want to do that because that would have destroyed the end of the bolt. I'll pull the top bolt when I get home, go to the hardware store and get a replacement (hopefully), and do as you suggested with the jack. I'll also pull the upper strut mount bolts and see if that will relieve some of the pressure too. If I can't get it pulled by Sunday this will be put on hold for another week and possibly until July because of the Auto-x events coming up.
I spoke with a Tokico rep and he explained the springs sold with the Protege Illumina suspension kit are around 160lbs front and rear. That's 15lbs more than stock MSP springs, so valving shouldn't be an issue right?
The under side of the car is big mess of rust. God I hate living in the north. The front strut was going to come out fine, but I couldn't get the damn end link nut off. So this is going to be put on hold. I might be buying a set of used MSP struts, which I can then measure to see if they will work with the inserts, and if not, then I have some cheap replacements that will last a few years. Mine aren't blown after examination, they aren't leaking. I think the rubbing is coming just because the springs are getting a little tired.
Eventually I will get around to editing this thread into a sticky worthy post, since it has now turned into a personal suspension build thread.
MSP is back together, it was a potential nightmare in the making. Alignment went well and Firestone got the right pull out of the car that has existed for 2.5 years now. I am purchasing a set of used MSP struts and springs off a fellow member. Once I get them I'll do the measurements and such. I'd rather pay for a spare set than go through all that BS again.
MSP is back together, it was a potential nightmare in the making. Alignment went well and Firestone got the right pull out of the car that has existed for 2.5 years now. I am purchasing a set of used MSP struts and springs off a fellow member. Once I get them I'll do the measurements and such. I'd rather pay for a spare set than go through all that BS again.
So it's been a long time, and this project kind of died, but Moxnix talked me into getting my butt back in gear. I pulled apart a front and rear strut last night and I'll be measuring everything to see if the Koni inserts will work for stock class. I'm also going to contact a few Bilstein and Koni resellers to see if they can find anything that will work. The bump stops on both ends look to be over 1.5" long, so that's good news. I'll update tonight with pictures.
Ok, I have some numbers. The stock MSP struts are very close to the stock Protege struts, but they are not identical.
MSP Struts
Front: 13.5" (body) / 7.0625 (piston) / 2.125 (bump stop)
Rear: 16" (body) / 8.5625 (piston) / 2.125 (bump stop)
There's some wiggle room with those measurements because those are to the bottom of the strut bodies, and there's like 1/8"-1/4" between that and where the Koni would be bolted. The bump stop length leaves a lot of wiggle room for keeping in line with the stock compression length rule.
Long story short.
- This will work and be stock class legal
- Front: 2" spacer with a washer or two (2.04" needed), no trimming bump stop needed
- Rear: 2" spacer with a washer or two (2.11" needed), trim the bump stop more than .4"
MSP Struts
Front: 13.5" (body) / 7.0625 (piston) / 2.125 (bump stop)
Rear: 16" (body) / 8.5625 (piston) / 2.125 (bump stop)
There's some wiggle room with those measurements because those are to the bottom of the strut bodies, and there's like 1/8"-1/4" between that and where the Koni would be bolted. The bump stop length leaves a lot of wiggle room for keeping in line with the stock compression length rule.
Long story short.
- This will work and be stock class legal
- Front: 2" spacer with a washer or two (2.04" needed), no trimming bump stop needed
- Rear: 2" spacer with a washer or two (2.11" needed), trim the bump stop more than .4"
