Bad wastegate = new turbo??

[mustangsvo85]

I just bought a decent looking 03 msp a month ago, but it has been in the shop since. It has a gnarly hesitation. Just before 2800 rpms and sputters throughout the rest of the increase in rpms. It's much worse at higher load, low throttle condition (as in freeway cruising in 5th gear). Its been at Riverside Mazda getting diagnosed, and we've replaced the 2 spark plug wires, ignition coils, air filter, and a slew of cracked and leaking vacuum lines (may have experienced a small fire??). They are now telling me the wastegate actuator is not working, which is common from what I've researched. They said the wastegate itself may be cracked, and that I can't just buy a new one, and I'll have to replace the whole turbo. Can I just rebuild the back end of the turbo, or am I stuck getting a new turbo? If new is my only/best option, which one do I need to get??

Thanks!!

Ryan

 

[Schwamm]

Unless I am misunderstanding something here, you absolutely can replace the wastegate actuator without replacing the turbo. I did it when I bought mine back in 2007, when the car was barely 3 years old. I'm sure you can find instructions and help if you search this forum

 

[mustangsvo85]

I mean if the wastegate itself is cracked, not the actuator, can that be replaced. I plan on replacing the wastegate actuator itself regardless.

 

[Valk]

If the actual waste gate is fked you.might have to find another turbine housing. Might be tough as I belive our stock turbos have a unique casting.

You might try to find a used stock turbo or a dead one and salvage the housing. A new replacment will be much.monies. alternately you could replace the turbo with a aftermarket gt2560 or similar.

Not sure if you can replace just the flapper. But the actuator is pretty piss easy. Get the atp turbo 6psi one over oem.

 

[mustangsvo85]

any good write ups or instructions for installing an aftermarket turbo?? I can't seem to find much I don't mind spending the money, I just want this beauty on the road! I'd like to keep it mostly stock, but seems parts aren't available, so upgrades are my only choice! If I blow her up, I'll just rebuild it better haha

Oh, I just bought the turbosmart 7psi wastegate actuator, is that a good choice?

 

[The_big_dill]

The turbine housing can be replaced, and don't quote me on this, but I believe you may be able to use a GT25 turbo housing from some of the nissan SR20DETs, I believe the major difference is that they are journal bearing. Not saying to go with that option, but if you do your research you should be able to confirm if the housings are the same or not.

You can go with anything that has a T25 manifold for the turbine housing, and clock it if you need to. I know people get the journal bearing equivalent to our ball bearing turbos for cheap and just run that instead.

If it is advertised to work on our cars, the turbosmart should work. Make sure you aren't pushing more than 10 PSI though

 

[Valk]

T25 4 bolt inducer 5 bolt exducer. But a turbine housing should cost less than buying even a used turbo. I was looking at a t3 external gated housing that would fit the 25/28 and it was around $250..

Quick google has people welding them but you would prob have a good amount of machine time after.

Sr 20 turbos are just gt2560 and that should bolt right up.
I'd prob investigate the health of your turbo before looking into it further though. Shaft play, oil blowby?

 

[mustangsvo85]

I will definitely get a better look at it this weekend. Called a few local turbo rebuilders and they said the housing can't be purchased separately, I'm stuck buying a whole new turbo. I'll post pics Saturday. Thanks for your help!

I don't want to boost the heck out of it, I'd like to stay around 7-9psi. I'll have to hook up gauges to know though.

 

[Valk]

I'm sure someone here has a dead turbo. Post in the classifieds. Buy dead turbo. Swipe exhaust housing. Profit

Alternately hit up your local classifieds for turbo, t25, skyline turbo ect.

 

[Valk]

Ps your mechanic ia full of s***...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GARRETT-T25...H_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item588ce9acf2&vxp=mtr


But I'd be worried about other damage that might have come with a cracket exhaust housing. Definitely have turbo inspected.

 

[thepope540]

I'll be very surprised if you have a cracked housing - that basically never happens. I'm pretty sure I have a spare housing kicking around someplace. Hit me up if you do end up needing one. $70 shipped.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Your first mistake was going to the dealer. These cars are rare and most technicians do not know them well enough to work on them despite their simplicity. In the two years I worked at a dealer I never saw a single MSP save for one yellow one that came in to buy parts one day.

Your wastegate acutator is likely torn if they are telling you it has failed and it can be replaced for less than $100. Check that the spark plugs are gapped to the correct gap, regular protege plugs will not work they MUST be 6 heat range and they must be gapped to .028"-.030".

 

[mustangsvo85]

Yeah I'm not really a fan of stealerships but I haven't had the time to wrench myself. I hope they are incorrect about the housing, but in really glad you guys can help if it is! I'm picking it up tomorrow and working on it this weekend. There were some other common issues to be fixed as well, like leaky valve cover gasket, motor mounts, blown subwoofer, missing Stereo faceplate drivers side mirror, and the infamous rear sway bar clunk. I'll get the turbo off and get pictures for you guys, I appreciate the help!!

Ryan

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Hey sounds to me like they they were talking about the waste gate flapper it's self. Send us pics like he said if you need a housing ThePope540 has one.

 

[Natey]

Your first mistake was going to the dealer. These cars are rare and most technicians do not know them well enough to work on them despite their simplicity. In the two years I worked at a dealer I never saw a single MSP save for one yellow one that came in to buy parts one day.

Your wastegate acutator is likely torn if they are telling you it has failed and it can be replaced for less than $100. Check that the spark plugs are gapped to the correct gap, regular protege plugs will not work they MUST be 6 heat range and they must be gapped to .028"-.030".

Agree agree and agree. Those are both things that could make your car do what it's doing (although the wastegate actuator is the one that's infamous for taking a s***). My local dealer argued with me when my WGA went out...swearing up and down that Mazda never made a turbocharged Protege. My MSP was sitting in the parking lot!
Anyway a couple other things to test and/or replace are the MAF, the solenoids on top of the engine, and the PCV valve. Good luck.

 

[mustangsvo85]

solenoids on top of the engine??

 

[hornsfan10609]

They control the flaps in the intake (green and white plugs) and the other is the FPR solenoid (brown plug). They will throw a light when they fail, no need to replace unless they throw a CEL.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I like to pull the vac lines of of them. When I had a bad one it didn't hold a vacuum after the motor is off.

 

[Natey]

...They will throw a light when they fail, no need to replace unless they throw a CEL.

As does the WGA, so no need to replace that either unless you have a CEL.(whistle)

 

[mustangsvo85]

As does the WGA, so no need to replace that either unless you have a CEL.(whistle)

I don't have any CELS. Car has been driven a few hundred miles
With this issue. Didn't throw a code for bad ignition ether. The light does work, as it lights up when the ignition is on and engine is no running. Dealership went through a tank trying to set a cell off. Barret has not been removed or unplugged either.