Bad tires shake at 100kph/63mph and reason why

[Sgt.PinkiePie]

So driving home the other day from getting my new rims and tires on the 2 and I noticed a ton of shake in the steering wheel while on the highway. I confirmed this on the highway yesterday with another driver and 2 other passengers that it was shaking to a point where it was unbearable to drive. So I just rang the place where I got it done and it turns out that they couldn't get hub locator rings for my wheels and car until next week! WHAT THE F***? They did not tell me that my car was dangerous to drive and that a wheel might fall off if I decide to be a leadfoot around some corners? I had 3 other people in the car with me yesterday... Not impressed. Now I am just wondering how good my bolts still are, seeing as they are the only things holding my wheels to the car.

 

[PassivAggressor]

Bad balance on your wheels?

 

[kcdirtbro54]

He said they didn't install hub rings..... problem solved once they're installed. Balance could be an issue if the problem isn't fully solved after that.

 

[Sgt.PinkiePie]

The wheels are ballanced, there are no hub locator rings. Did you read all of what I said?

 

[Ryno666]

Hub centric rings, road force, ride match, dynamic tape weight balance, and torque wrench. Bore centric rings are 73-54.1

 

[PassivAggressor]

The wheels are ballanced, there are no hub locator rings. Did you read all of what I said?

Yes. Yes I did indeed read all of what you wrote. I was just suggesting the balance issue because some people say you don't even need the hub centric rings, so it may be a bigger issue. Sorry for, you know, being helpful.

 

[Sgt.PinkiePie]

The wheels are brand new and balanced, I already knew what the problem was.

 

[323F Rock]

"hub centric" rings (or spigot rings in the UK) are just that... they are design to centre the wheel on the hub
some are even made of plastic, they are not weight supporting and with tapered seat nuts are probably redundant as long as the nuts are tightened equally,

I've had 17" wheels fitted for over 2 years..... without hub centric rings (boom05) and plenty of hooning around without any ill effect or near death experiences with wheels falling off due to a lack of a small ring of metal or plastic not being centrally located on a hub.


To answer your question if a garage fitted them and used a "windy gun" they may not have equally tightened them up allowing the wheel to centralise itself with the hub on its bolt holes but even so it's probably something else, try another set of wheels? to be doubly sure

 

[skullsroad]

You don't need hub rings. The taper of the lugnuts center the wheels just fine. I think it's a balance issue.

 

[Sgt.PinkiePie]

My lock nuts throw out that capability. I need hub centric locators and they know it.

 

[Joker2]

You need lighter wheels and a proper balance and a torque wrench so you can properly torque up the wheels.
The last 2 should get you pretty close. You may also have out of round tires common with the cheaper ones. Also common with cheap wheels. OOR can only be fixed by replacing the culprit.

 

[Sgt.PinkiePie]

The wheels are fine -.- I already know why its shaking, it was not a question of why, but rather a statement of why they shake and why I wasn't told that my order was not completed 100%.

 

[Ryno666]

Yeah unfortunately humans make errors. You probably got a new guy, or a weight fell off. When balancing wheels you have to clean the surface where tape weights go, yes new wheels also. Often new wheels out of the box have a sheen and should be cleaned with denatured alcohol or cleaner fluid before sticking weights. When it's cold or moist outside you have to warm everything up first. If they didn't torque properly your wheels would wobble at all speeds and maybe worse but lack of hub rings won't cause your wheels to fall off unless someone accidentally stacked two of them. Go back and get someone who gives a $%&@.

 

[Racebrewer]

New rims, too. Did they use lug nuts compatible with the new rims? Unfortunately, there are different types of lug nuts and they do not work with all rims due to different mating surfaces.

As to the hub centric rings, they allow the wheels to be tightened down properly concentric to the hub. I have used rims with them and without.

If not immediately available, I tighten down the lug nuts, by hand, in progressive steps (in a criss-cross pattern) while spinning the wheel so no one lug nut is responsible for locating the wheel on the hub. Most commercial shops use air tools that produce a lot more torque than needed. If over enthusiastically used, those tools can mis-locate the wheel off center since the wheels don't get a chance to center themselves on the stud pattern. In other words, the first nut tightened jams the wheel in place and the others just bind up when tightened.

John

 

[Ryno666]

Yep ball seats, conical seat, spline drive, mag shank, tuner, hex, boiled shrimp, fried shrimp, shrimp gumbo.

 

[Racebrewer]

Yummmmm,,,,,,, Gumbo. No shrimp please. Shellfish allergy.........

 

[Sgt.PinkiePie]

My new rims do not self centre with my lock nuts and are supposed to use the hub locator to centre them. This thread was a complaint about bad service rather than a question, as I already know why they shake.

 

[skullsroad]

Wait, so you're using the wrong lugnuts? If you're using, for example, tuner style lugnuts with a huge cone seat on wheels with a smaller taper like a ball seat then hub rings are the least of your problems.

 

[Sgt.PinkiePie]

Lock nuts, on each wheel. The rest of the nuts I use are supplied by the wheels manufacturer for that specific rim. My Lock nuts throw that out. And don't say to not use the lock nut as a few people I know have come out in the morning to wheels nearly off the car with wrecked lock nuts.

 

[Ryno666]

Gorilla locknuts are best. I've had to bust a lot of locknuts off of cars that customers lost their key.
You can torque by hand also.