Bad build

Clowcemc

Member
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Mazdaspeed protege
Anybody still on here??

The story...
Bought an msp a year ago with an ssafc, injectors, boost controller, oil catch can, inter cooler piping(no stock piping left), catless 2.5" exhaust and maybe more I missed. It also came with a blown stock turbo(the hot n cold sides broke apart Nd were spinning freely. The guy gave me a new jdm t28 turbo that would bolt right up.... To fit it I've put new new headers switching to external waste gate.
Over 5% throttle af gauge says 10.0
Idles fine. New o2 sensor
Cel is for tps too high fuel regulator nd o2 sensor.
Could it just need retuned to drop the codes could the slightly larger turbo affect o2 nd the Maf throwing off the tps
 
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There you go, man.

First off, where's your MAF at?
 
Umm... Take a picture of the inlet pipe that's attached to the turbocharger inlet- the pipe where your air filter is attached. Can you do that? And post in your garage. I'm not going to teach you how to post pictures right now, we'll address that later. More importantly, what's actually wrong with the car? Describe what it's doing.
 
I've actually torn it all down in the last couple hours but from turbo inlet i had the piping with the temp sensor and the map sensor then air filter
 
According to my boost gauge and af gauge it idles fine at 20lbs vacuum...13lbs or so 10.5 any less or any boost it flashes 10.0
It would also white smoke a lot for 15 mins or so at random time regardless of engine temp or how I drove it... Hasn't recently... Kept overheating this last time due to an exhaust leak melting my radiator fan a little no locking it up(it's a mishimoto) haven't gapped the plugs but they matched up to the ones that came with it so it couldn't be throwing it off too bad.. Cools side of my turbo has a slow oil leak.. I also realized today that my engine ground I had forgot to reconnect and I unplugged my o2 the other day and it stayed between 14 nd 13 on my a/f gauge while I drove it for a few mins to try to clean sum carbon out of it from runnin so rich all the time
 
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Umm... Take a picture of the inlet pipe that's attached to the turbocharger inlet- the pipe where your air filter is attached. Can you do that? And post in your garage. I'm not going to teach you how to post pictures right now, we'll address that later. More importantly, what's actually wrong with the car? Describe what it's doing.

Pic is added
 
I'd move the MAF to the cold side, between the BOV and throttle body. And what are the actual DTC's that are stored?
 
That's where it was when I got the car but my friend said it had to be on the low pressure side and that it was reading too much air and trying to dump fuel to compensate.. When I moved it seemed to help because before if it wasn't idling it was flashing 10.0 on the af gauge... DTC??
 
I'd move the MAF to the cold side, between the BOV and throttle body. And what are the actual DTC's that are stored?

That's where it was when I bought the car but my friend said it had to be on the low pressure intake side and that it thought it was having a whole lot of air coming into the turbo and that it was dumping fuel to compensate.. It's ran a hair leaner since I moved it by the air filter.. Dtc??
 
The Check engine light codes are tps reading higher than it actually is, fuel regulator, and o2 sensor.. I don't remember the actual codes do i need to get them?
 
Yes. Move the maf between bov and throttle body. Maf on low pressure side meters air coming into the turbo and when the bov releases pressure that metered air is dumped and there's nothing else to tell the ecu how much air is going into the engine. When it's between bov and tb it meters all air going into the engine.
 
Yes. Move the maf between bov and throttle body. Maf on low pressure side meters air coming into the turbo and when the bov releases pressure that metered air is dumped and there's nothing else to tell the ecu how much air is going into the engine. When it's between bov and tb it meters all air going into the engine.


And the maf is the large open sensor that connects to the 3" intake piping with 3 or 4 wires not the sensor that measures boost/vacuum that only has 2 wires and 2 1/8" vacuum lines right?
 
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